Huge problem on the dyno yesterday(need some good evo tech support)
Huge problem on the dyno yesterday(need some good evo tech support)
UPDATES ON PAGE 4
I need some help guys. So I build my motor and order a great turbo and great ems for the car and I am hoping for 500-600 hp on the car giving the results of many others with the FP Black but now I am almost ready to load up the car and take it to someone who knows evos inside and out. I have hit a brick wall with my evo 8. I have all the mods listed below and the car made a whopping 330 hp at 28 psi. The car before my build made 316 hp on stock evo 8 turbo at 24psi, so I managed to spend thousands of dollars for 14 hps. I cannot understand why my car is not making power. I have checked and double checked the camshafts and crankshaft all of which are in time. The car runs great, it idles great, it pulls pretty hard but does not make the power for the set up I have. The dip stick comes out every time it hits around 6000 rpms at full boost not sure why. I talked with Robert at FP he said something is significantly wrong with the car if it doesn't make anymore power than what it is and referred to it as the potato in the exhaust effect like something is holding me down. I have no idea what could be holding the car down. I have yet to do a leak down but seriously doubt that is the problem since the motor has less than 4000 miles on it since the build. I tested the compression on it and it had 165-170 psi on all 4 cylinders. I am stumped does anybody have any ideas or know who would be able to diagnose this problem. I am in Baton Rouge, LA and nobody around here really knows evos that well.
INFO JUST ADDED:
So far I have checked:
1. The crankshaft and camshaft timing it lines up with the marks at TDC screw drive was placed in the #1 cylinder to be sure
2. The exhaust from the dump tube through down pipe and out the tip of the exhaust and nothing is blocking the exhaust flow.
3. Intercooler and all piping was removed and nothing is blocking the flow of air.
4. Compression test 165-167 across all four cylinders
5. Leak down test: engine was at normal operating temp. compressor was set to 100psi, each cylinder was placed at TDC on the compression stroke results are as follows
#1 Cylinder- 12% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
#2 Cylinder- 19% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
#3 Cylinder -21% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
#4 Cylinder -22% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
I never heard air coming through the intake or exhaust nor did I see bubbles in the coolant reservoir.
6. It was suggest the bearings were too tight but I can spin the motor with one hand using a socket wrench on the crankshaft
MODS:
2.0 Liter motor
JE Pistons factory compression .20 over on the bore
Eagle Rods
Eagle Crank
Balance Shaft eliminator kit
Stock head with stronger springs and retainers and 1mm over on the valves
HKS 272 cams
Perrin Intercooler
Muse upic
AMS licp
1000cc injectors PTE
FP Black with 25 psi WGA
Greddy EBC
Perrin Fuel rail
Buschur Double Pumper
AEM cam gears set at Exhaust R 1* Intake R 2*
Ported exhaust stock manifold
EPM Dump
Full exhaust 3inch no cat
Haltech Platinum 1000 ems
ACT Heavy duty clutch
Shep tranny
FP air intake
Generic catch can
Small battery kit
I need some help guys. So I build my motor and order a great turbo and great ems for the car and I am hoping for 500-600 hp on the car giving the results of many others with the FP Black but now I am almost ready to load up the car and take it to someone who knows evos inside and out. I have hit a brick wall with my evo 8. I have all the mods listed below and the car made a whopping 330 hp at 28 psi. The car before my build made 316 hp on stock evo 8 turbo at 24psi, so I managed to spend thousands of dollars for 14 hps. I cannot understand why my car is not making power. I have checked and double checked the camshafts and crankshaft all of which are in time. The car runs great, it idles great, it pulls pretty hard but does not make the power for the set up I have. The dip stick comes out every time it hits around 6000 rpms at full boost not sure why. I talked with Robert at FP he said something is significantly wrong with the car if it doesn't make anymore power than what it is and referred to it as the potato in the exhaust effect like something is holding me down. I have no idea what could be holding the car down. I have yet to do a leak down but seriously doubt that is the problem since the motor has less than 4000 miles on it since the build. I tested the compression on it and it had 165-170 psi on all 4 cylinders. I am stumped does anybody have any ideas or know who would be able to diagnose this problem. I am in Baton Rouge, LA and nobody around here really knows evos that well.
INFO JUST ADDED:
So far I have checked:
1. The crankshaft and camshaft timing it lines up with the marks at TDC screw drive was placed in the #1 cylinder to be sure
2. The exhaust from the dump tube through down pipe and out the tip of the exhaust and nothing is blocking the exhaust flow.
3. Intercooler and all piping was removed and nothing is blocking the flow of air.
4. Compression test 165-167 across all four cylinders
5. Leak down test: engine was at normal operating temp. compressor was set to 100psi, each cylinder was placed at TDC on the compression stroke results are as follows
#1 Cylinder- 12% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
#2 Cylinder- 19% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
#3 Cylinder -21% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
#4 Cylinder -22% loss little bit of air coming through the dip stick
I never heard air coming through the intake or exhaust nor did I see bubbles in the coolant reservoir.
6. It was suggest the bearings were too tight but I can spin the motor with one hand using a socket wrench on the crankshaft
MODS:
2.0 Liter motor
JE Pistons factory compression .20 over on the bore
Eagle Rods
Eagle Crank
Balance Shaft eliminator kit
Stock head with stronger springs and retainers and 1mm over on the valves
HKS 272 cams
Perrin Intercooler
Muse upic
AMS licp
1000cc injectors PTE
FP Black with 25 psi WGA
Greddy EBC
Perrin Fuel rail
Buschur Double Pumper
AEM cam gears set at Exhaust R 1* Intake R 2*
Ported exhaust stock manifold
EPM Dump
Full exhaust 3inch no cat
Haltech Platinum 1000 ems
ACT Heavy duty clutch
Shep tranny
FP air intake
Generic catch can
Small battery kit
Last edited by Thomasevo; Jun 3, 2010 at 07:23 PM. Reason: updated
Any datalogs to share from the dyno or haltech?
I need some help guys. So I build my motor and order a great turbo and great ems for the car and I am hoping for 500-600 hp on the car giving the results of many others with the FP Black but now I am almost ready to load up the car and take it to someone who knows evos inside and out. I have hit a brick wall with my evo 8. I have all the mods listed below and the car made a whopping 330 hp at 28 psi. The car before my build made 316 hp on stock evo 8 turbo at 24psi, so I managed to spend thousands of dollars for 14 hps. I cannot understand why my car is not making power. I have checked and double checked the camshafts and crankshafts all of which are in time. The car runs great, it idles great, it pulls pretty hard but does not make the power for the set up I have. The dip stick comes out every time it hits around 6000 rpms at full boost not sure why. I talked with Robert at FP he said something is significantly wrong with the car if it doesn't make anymore power than what it is and referred to it as the potato in the exhaust effect like something is holding me down. I have no idea what could be holding the car down. I have yet to do a leak down but seriously doubt that is the problem since the motor has less than 4000 miles on it since the build. I tested the compression on it and it had 170psi on all 4 cylinders. I am stumped does anybody have any ideas or know who would be able to diagnose this problem. I am in Baton Rouge, LA and nobody around here really knows evos that well. I am probably going to call FP back and see if I can bring it to them.
MODS:
2.0 Liter motor
JE Pistons factory compression .20 over on the bore
Eagle Rods
Eagle Crank
Balance Shaft eliminator kit
Stock head with stronger springs and retainers and 1mm over on the valves
HKS 272 cams
Perrin Intercooler
Muse upic
AMS licp
1000cc injectors PTE
FP Black with 25 psi WGA
Greddy EBC
Perrin Fuel rail
Buschur Double Pumper
AEM cam gears set at Exhaust R 1* Intake R 2*
Ported exhaust stock manifold
EPM Dump
Full exhaust 3inch no cat
Haltech Platinum 1000 ems
ACT Heavy duty clutch
Shep tranny
FP air intake
Generic catch can
Small battery kit
MODS:
2.0 Liter motor
JE Pistons factory compression .20 over on the bore
Eagle Rods
Eagle Crank
Balance Shaft eliminator kit
Stock head with stronger springs and retainers and 1mm over on the valves
HKS 272 cams
Perrin Intercooler
Muse upic
AMS licp
1000cc injectors PTE
FP Black with 25 psi WGA
Greddy EBC
Perrin Fuel rail
Buschur Double Pumper
AEM cam gears set at Exhaust R 1* Intake R 2*
Ported exhaust stock manifold
EPM Dump
Full exhaust 3inch no cat
Haltech Platinum 1000 ems
ACT Heavy duty clutch
Shep tranny
FP air intake
Generic catch can
Small battery kit
No my tuner has them on his computer, robert at FP stated it was not a tuning issue to stop tuning that the car just was not operating properly the runs looked great AFR, Boost curve, no knock etc
I didn't see any mention of a boost leak test to xxx psi??
You're generic catch can and pcv system looks like it may need a little check-up. My advise is to get someone qualified to assist you at this point before a simple error becomes devastating.
You're generic catch can and pcv system looks like it may need a little check-up. My advise is to get someone qualified to assist you at this point before a simple error becomes devastating.
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does your downpipe have a flex section? I had one collapse on my Talon that caused similiar symptoms. The stainless mesh had all but blocked off the downpipe and turned my nice 3" exhaust into a 1" exhaust.
John-
John-
Find a new shop. If your ever is making 330hp @ 28 psi the shop is obviously not qualified to work on your car or maybe any car for that matter.
Robert is probably right saying its not a tuning issue although it is possible.
Maybe ring chris@mellon tuning and see if he could help you out. He is the closet person to you that would be qualified to work on your car that I know about.
Robert is probably right saying its not a tuning issue although it is possible.
Maybe ring chris@mellon tuning and see if he could help you out. He is the closet person to you that would be qualified to work on your car that I know about.
Find a new shop. If your ever is making 330hp @ 28 psi the shop is obviously not qualified to work on your car or maybe any car for that matter.
Robert is probably right saying its not a tuning issue although it is possible.
Maybe ring chris@mellon tuning and see if he could help you out. He is the closet person to you that would be qualified to work on your car that I know about.
Robert is probably right saying its not a tuning issue although it is possible.
Maybe ring chris@mellon tuning and see if he could help you out. He is the closet person to you that would be qualified to work on your car that I know about.
I would deffinitly do a leak down test. the dipstick blowing out under boost is from blow-by. the rings are not seated correctly against the cylinder walls. Also check cam timing, i personally dont like using aftermarket cam gears. i have seen cars down on power because of aftermarket cam gears out of oem spec. Also do you have a cat on your car. If you do it could be damged and clogging your exhaust. And if you check everything and nothing is wrong get a new tuner before you need a new motor.
