You can buy those tensioner tools offline for rather cheap. Just follow the cam install, zip tie up the belt to make sure it doesn't skip the teeth on the crank pulley and then zip tie the cam gears and belt to the A/C hoses that are right beside the timing belt area. Take the exhaust manifold off and unbolt the intake manifold (unless you want to pull it out with the head). Head studs are under the valve cover, one at a time remove them. It isn't too bad. If you run into any speed bumps or want suggestions, PM me. I have the service manual and have done it before on my car and others.

 

i did not do the oil trick, but shouldn't i just pull head and not try to turn motor any more at this point

 

thx bro....know anywhere in particularly to get the tool from for cheap?

 

That is one thing to consider. Pulling the head at this point might be the best option.

As for the tool, AMS sells one for $50, Lancershop sells it for more, almost $70. Search and you can find it for cheaper, sometimes on E-Bay.

 

Actually two cylinders next to each other loosing compression usually leads me to believe the headgasket between the cylinders has failed. However the plugs getting closed means FOD. You weren't one of those loon's running at the track without an airfilter were you?

 

The adjustable cam gear setting has nothing to do with your timing marks lining up or not. It's the inner part of the cam gear that moves when you adjust it. The outer rings of the cam gear stay put on the timing belt.

If you are at TDC on the crank and the upper gear marks do not line up with the valve cover then you are out of time.

- Bryan

 

If you want to stop by my dealership tomorrow(if you are close), I can give you my copy of the service manual on disc.

I would do a leakdown to see if you have any bent valves.

 

The oil trick is useless, of course the compression will rise we have dished pistons.

I would pull the head and check for damage, and incase you're unsure, you've skipped timing.

Don't bother with the oil pan yet, rod knock wouldn't neccesarily cause low compression or power

 

FOD?.... and no..i def have my cone filter on

 

top marks actually do line up with eachother..never checked against crank though..where is the mark located exactly

 

hey bro...i'm from central jersey..but i do work close to nanuet NY..not sure how far that is from you...but do you sell the timin belt tool at ur dealer?

 

i'll def be pulling the head this week and will post pics...i wont worry about the oil pan just yet..

idk if its rod knock..but i did hear a ringing noise when i tried to turn it over...but it seemed to went away..and motor sounded like it was idling normally but when i tried to pull off again it fell on its face.

pulled plugs again to see if one was closed, and it wasn't...

but now she's sitting in the garage and will tackle that head this week

 

..since i already may have to pull the block out...does it make sense to get tensioner tool and salvage my belt..or should i just cut it..and pul head

 

It won't always rise due to the pistons themselves... It will only rise with using oil if the piston rings have cracked or broken.

 

you can easily remove the belt without the tool just break the bolt loose on the timing tensioner pulley. It wont destroy the belt but if I was in there I would be using a new belt anyway...