It's not about what you choose as an oil, its that you think conventional and synthetic provide the same ammount of protection and that increasing your change intervals will compensate for going with a cheaper oil. While synthetics do provide protection longer than a conventional which would require increased change intervals the fact remaisn that during the oils life before change is neccessary the synthetic will provide better protection than a conventional and it will do it longer then a conventional.

Yes changing your oil often enough is important but the oil you choose is just as important. If you buy crappy tires changing them every 1000 miles doesnt mean they will provide the same grip as an expensive tire that you run for 10,000.

You are confusing oil life with oil protection.

 

Well show me this date as it was just explained to me that 10 ft/lbs of preasure was the differance on combustion from Convential and Synthetic. Show me something or shoot a pm with a link that is valid and I will look at it and if I am swayed I will do what you say how is that.

I called fp as said and they stated that the VR1 Non Full Synthetic is just fine die to the high zink and phosporus count that is inside which has the same amount in the Synthetic both are good to run on the 4G63 and they run Brad Penn which is not a full synthetic on their race cars and it has not caused any damage and the tech Brian said his 600 hp car runs non full synthetic and it is fine as well. I would be more concerned if I as doing 30 minute full throttle lap sessions but DD and once in awhile a Auto X or something this is fine. He did say yes a synthetic can last longer but both the VR1 oils will protect almost as good with what I am running and doing at the moment. I am not argueing that some protect better then others but for what the car is used for mainly as a DD I am in no danger but I will see about the switch still as I want to play on the safe side just after I do my next oil change I will and which time will be with the FP Red. Wreakless thanks for all the help there are just those who think they know so much because they work on their car and dont talk to those as much that are pros and I have built my car based on and the guideance of FP,MAP and my Shop Ptuning/FID.


Now there is so many people thinking the internet is the best place for knowledge but in realily expericance such as proven shops shoulf be consulted first not the internet because everyone has a differnat belief. One being you can switch from Sytnetic to con and back as miuch as you like since 99% of oils have reg oil mixed in with them. There are only two real racing oils from what FP said Joe Gibss and Brad Penn both are not 100% senthetic so are they bad?

 

Your confusing bad and good with good and better. A 100% synthetic will maintain protective properties between 2 surfaces for much longer between start ups then conventional oils. For a DD were it sits for 8 or 0 hours at night between the time you last turn the car off and the time you start it up in the morning conventional motor oils will settle back in the pan causeing more wear during start up. Unlike a 100% synthetic which will adhere to parts for a couple days between start ups providing much better protection during start up which is where most engine wear is done.

This is the last I am gonna say on the matter because you clearly have your mind made up so really even wiriting what I wrote is a waste of my time as I have already stated this. I just tried to break it down Barney style a little more.

 

TedB has plenty of experience on the engineering side of the car industry with OEMs and others. While no one is right all the time, TedB is not some random keyboard jockey FYI.

And, just as an example, I know of at least 2 people on this site not affiliated with any vendors or shops who have real world automotive engineering experience with resumes many would wish were their own.

 

Nhelped explanations have helped and im going to switch back now after this since I can understand that. Just ted b was like it will kill you motor which is true. But a case of 6 is 47 buck roughly from my friend with his discount.

 

if anyone wants to buy my left over valvoline vr1 20w50 (VV211) for 2 bux a quart msg me lol. its taking up space in the garage. i have 12 qts left.

 

So I know the non synthetic vr1 is approved but does that really mean the synthetic version is also? Im not refering to the NSL version either. Im refering to this. http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-6790.../dp/B002ZSM2EM

 

Yeah, I tried this Shell Helix Ultra in a 5w-40. However, it is only a Group III oil. As such, it is really only a semi-synthetic oil. Go figure.

 

Im sorry wizzo I did not get back but yes the Synthetic and non both are appoved and because of the high zink and phosphorus count its fine to run either one of them. The synthetic can be ran longer they even said 5-7kor until the oil is dirty so that can be sooner then 3k 2k so forth. Also the VR1 is not a real racing oil like Joe Gibbs and Brad Penn which have low if no detergeant. The VR1 is still a classified oil meaning it meets or exceeds api,sj etc requierments and Joe Gibbs and Brad Penn have no classification. So you decide on which to get I know I can get the VR1 non for 5 bucks or pay 2.80 more and get VR1 Synthetic for 7.80 a quart from my friend with his discount. I am going to run this non for this and the next oil change and on the 3rd one use the Synthetic.

 

Good to know. Thank you.

 

No problem, I for the info because so much internet reading and rumor posting so I went to a performance shop that did a study on oils.

Also wreakless969 the 10ft/lbs psi is refering to the pressure that synthetics have I assume at full combustion/peak action hard to explain but its very slim so there is imo at this time no proff that im going to harm my motor but the understanding you gave makes good sense of how it synthetic attaches itself but the fall back there is what about a sythetic car that sits for 2-3 days or a week all the time? Please pm me,you give good info and I appriciate it and im rather discuss this in pm so it does not seem like im being a rock about it.

 

That's true that the VR1 oils are not "race only" oils. It is easy to get a Valvoline tech on the phone, the hold times are short, and the techs seem to know what they are talking about. I would sure recommend calling one if you want a clearer idea how much detergent they have and so forth, for street use. My impression is they are really a street oil, even though they say "racing" on the bottle. The "NSL" Valvoline oils are different, they are the "racing only" oil from Valvoline.

But .... Brad Penn is also not a "racing only" oil. Brad Penn calls the Penn Grade 1 oils "High Performance Oils for highly stressed street and racing engines". They have detergents, they have high TBN. They have very high HT/HS and are recommended by shops other than FP, STM, and Buschur. LN Engineering (a Porsche shop) is very pro Brad Penn. Anybody interested in Brad Penn oils should read their data sheet (Product Bulletin) - it talks about detergency and so forth:

http://www.amref.com/CMSFiles/File/b...HP_Oils_PB.pdf

A good way to buy Brad Penn oils I found out is from Hoerr Racing via their Amazon.com store. Their prices are low and the shipping was only $6.80 flat rate for however many quarts you buy, no sales tax. I'm following the LN Engineering recommendation to mix Penn Grade 1 in the 0w-30 and 20w-50 grades to get whatever intermediate viscosity you want.

 

That's allot of good info, that's also what I was saying about VR1 they are more for street use except the NSL and both the VR1 non synthetic and synthetic are fine to run daily with no issues.


This is for those who can't give advice with proff
Im not going to listen to people on a board because their favorite mechanic says its the best or their favorite tv series or internet reading you have to show me un deniable proff I will listen. I thank talon and wreakless969 for the advice. The others that can't get over a group rating makes me laugh why do you care about a level III as opposed to a 25 as most our cars are not 100% track cars and with that VR1 is not typical conventional oil the non synthetic that is as its treated with additives to PROTECT the motor and componets. If you had a date and mileage on oil why do most drag cars see less then 1k miles but have 100 oil changes oh that's right it was dirty not because its a synthetic or conventional.

 

Thanks. I think I have made up my mind and am going to go with the vr1 synthetic. I like the fact that I can get it at my local auto zone also. I know it has nothing to do with performance but I found out the oil is actually a light blue color. I thought that was nice that now my oil will match my car color

 

I will be seing many of you guys at the engine builders shop in the near future, because of your engine oils choice, many of you guys are choosing oils normally used for a fast drain after a race, you need good oil for DD's, sorry to be so negative but I have been down this road many times in this forum