Grimgrak

iTrader: (3)

That looks pretty complicated. I just run two dash 12's y'd to the baffled catch can and from the can a tube that runs under the car to vent anything behind the passenger seat area. Dont smell anything and my intake is goop free.

pupo

iTrader: (9)

I really like this idea, I have tapped my VC to -10 an on the turbo side and will leave the other side alone, I will be using a Moroso oil separator.

Migsubishi

iTrader: (38)

This is how mine is set up, I used the Saiko Michi cans, One 5/8 from where the pvc used to be and two from the side. I also have two 5/8 lines going to the Turbo intake as well. - not in pic

Selling the Saiko michi and going VTA, As I see it VTA will always keep the turbo intake, ic, ic-piping, and intake manifold clean and prevent hot oil and vapor from screwing with your tune under high load.

It will always vent even at idle, you shouldn't worry about sludge from oil vapor, these are not 6k mile plus oil change type of cars. Anyone who is pushing their car hard enough to worry about that changes their synthetic oil way before that has a chance to happen.

j255c

This was my other idea, ill try this first.

Grimgrak

iTrader: (3)

I suspect the check valves will get clogged over time.

j255c

I do not run a check valve.

Steven

iTrader: (19)

They're $1.36 each. I can replace all of them every week if necessary. I ordered 10 right away. If I don't notice any benefits, I can go back to where it is now in a matter of minutes. The current setup has worked on at least 100 WOT pulls making over 800hp.

j255c

Do you find having the evap vta also smells a lot?

Steven

iTrader: (19)

My car only runs E85 which I believe creates less vapors. All the evap stuff was removed before I bought the car. I'm not sure how it is vented. (I really should look) The only time I smell anything is after a hard pull, and I shut it back down. While sitting, the crankcase gas smells start seeping out of my air filter. It's kind of a mixture between burning ethanol (sweet) and burning oil. The liquid in my catch can has a similar smell to it.

pupo

iTrader: (9)

This is what I have so far:


Just one oil separator with the stock check valve and another check valve on the intake side so that the oil separator does not get presurized. I just purchased a -10 an press in fitting that will go where the stock check valve is and another moroso oil separator to go on the other breather port. (Already -10 AN) I am going to test this setup first before doing the press in fitting.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

I'd like to know who removed the baffles vs who didn't when drilling the rocker cover.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

Leaving the baffle on seems like a lot to gamble.

joseph143

iTrader: (8)

Oh i thought he meant like afterward... Hell no dont leave the baffles on... Its a huge pain in the *** to clean all the shavings with it apart... You'll never get em all with it together...

pupo

iTrader: (9)

I did not remove the baffles, it was a pain to clean, it took me hours to drill and to clean, and then when you make the thread there is also a lot of shavings. I used a vacuum cleaner, water and degreaser. After that I let it dry, blew compress air in to it and then sent it to get it power coated (Detective Coating). After I got it I blew more compress air in it and washed with water and degreaser again, let it dry and blew it again.
The good thing about Mg is that is light and when dry you can blow it out with air easy, hopefully I got all the shaving off, if not, only time will tell. I am 99% sure I got everything out, not worried at all.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

that 1% can be a b1tch. Is it that hard to remove and reinstall the baffle?