chu

iTrader: (72)

^YEs...from what I've seen,

pupo

iTrader: (9)

Well 1/2 NPT is a big hole, I took my time because I did not wanted to crack the valve cover and to minimize on the shavings that could get into the hole. I have a small hand and I was able to stick my finger in the hole and remove lots of the shaving that way, also because Mg is so light it can easily be washed out. I am not worry at all about it, it is just a matter of what you think is better, if you think that removing the baffle is a better option because of the shavings then go for it, if you think that once you remove the baffles a screw is going to fall then don't remove the baffles.

pupo

iTrader: (9)

For anyone that does not know what a Fairclough press-in fitting is, here is a picture of one I purchase from him:

Fairclough is a user here on evom that made these fittings for his build and offered them for sale; this is a -10 AN press-in fitting that goes on the side where the PCV valve goes on the valve cover. The good thing is that it is a true -10 AN fitting and you do not have to drill anything, just remove the old press-in fitting with the sleeve and press this one in, making this hole -10 AN. I am surprise that nobody else is offering this as a -10 AN solution.
Here is a thread that he made a while back with more pictures:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/we...r-fitting.html

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

^ I ordered 2 and they are on the way Also going to try Hal's oil cap. He told me the new baffle and splash guard work very good controlling oil splash. I'm going to try and do what I can before drilling the rocker cover. Next up would be a vented dipstick, but I'll have to make my own because I don't like where the vendors are mounting the AN fitting way too low on the tube.

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

Is putting like 15 little screws in there to hold it in place after any less of a gamble?

I hooked an air hose up while milling out the side cover so it blew all the chips out while cutting. Seemed to work very well. I used press in fittings on both lines, so no tapping at all. If you were to tap them though, just load the tap up with grease and go a turn at a time, cleaning the tap of grease and shavings with each turn.

I feel a lot better about this method then using screws to secure the baffle back on after removing it. Both methods have risks though.

antilag_200

iTrader: (49)

My latest set is as follows... 2 -10 AN from the head, 2 -6 AN from the block
PCV still retained to intake manifold.



here is a pcv hardline that I did in -6 AN.. I then used a check valve at the intake manifold itself. The fitting that is pressed in is a -6An fitting from STM


I built a large baffled can that sits inbetween my radiator and fmic




I will say this, that because I do NOT have a reservoir between the pcv valve and the intake manifold, I do see oil in the intake manifold. This system is different when compared to the one that I HAD used previousily in this thread i.e page 8 or 11

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

I can assume no dipstick blowing with those two, -10AN fittings Warren? Looks like a nice setup, only thing to improve would be to run a res/catch so your nice AMS mani doesn't see oil like you say.

joseph143

iTrader: (8)

If you use red loctite or safety wire there is nothing to worry about... On the other hand i have removed baffles and scrubbed for literally hours, using degreaser amd dish soap various brushes and rags and still seen shavings in places... Mg doesnt like to wash out idc how light it is... I will never chance not removig the baffles. The cams arent close enough to worry about the bolts and after that is either trapped in the head or the oil pan and still of no concern because it cant make it thru the pickup screen. Shaving will go wherever they want... They may get stopped in the oil filter but some can make it thru and chew bearing or cam journals... Not worth the risk...


To mrfred its really easy to remove the baffles if you have the right tools... And at how well you custom make some **** i imagine you have em all...

NOMIEZVR4

iTrader: (10)

antilag_200

Can you post a picture of the check valve? Id like to see how you hooked that up to the an line and intake manifold.

antilag_200

iTrader: (49)

There are also -6 an fittings on the dip stick and through the inspection hole, so yes you are correct, not blowing the dipstick. Yes my previous set up had a catch can inbetween the pcv and intake manifold. If I decide to keep this car, I will incorporate that into the system.

I will get one for you tonight, it is basically a AIR check valve, with a 90 degree fitting of it. they are basically 1/4 NPT male or female fittings, then simply add to choice of AN fittings.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...check%20valves

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

Price is great. Do you know the crack pressure of those check valves?

antilag_200

iTrader: (49)

No I don't know the crack pressure of those ones, mcmaster is way better than summit when it comes to specifics on the valve. IMO the crack pressure is poor in comparison to the stock pcv ( uneducated mouth test)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#air-check-valves/=ogpbvd


additionally I had a design estimate on a "custom" check valve, i.e vitton seals, Stainless body, with Male AN fittings built into the body , however it was alittle over 130 bucks for that valve.

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

A loose screw ANYWHERE in the motor is a major concern. Particularly in the head where it could find it's way into a valve spring and help drop a valve.

Too each their own.

I personally feel it's a bigger risk to take the baffle out. Realize that even if you had shavings in there, they have to get back out through the baffling.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

Yeah, the stock PCV valve is essentially zero crack pressure. Rather than relying on a spring, it relies on the boost pressure to close it.

I'm using one of the "Quick Opening" check valves from McMaster. Its a fine valve with a 0.3 psi crack pressure, but its big, heavy, and relatively expensive. If the VIAIR valve has a decently low crack pressure (less than 0.5 psi), I may have to try one out. I guess I'll call VIAIR.

antilag_200

iTrader: (49)

The check valve company that was dealing with during my design phase, I could specify crack pressures from 0.001 all the way through 99.9

their standard crack pressures were 0.125, 0.5 for values below 1

Here is their website
http://www.checkvalves.com/