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Last time I called, after I added vents but before I did the compression and leak down she asked about mileage and this and that and started pointing at valve stem seals and rings so I think the only fool proof way to determine its the turbo is to put the old one back on and verify unfortunately. Oh well. this thread helped my cure any crankcase pressure issues if they existed before. It would be quite the coincidence if it turns out to not be the turbo. I don't want to call them again until I have done all I can on my end and there is nowhere else for them to deflect blame to.
How many miles are on the car? Unless it has 150k, valve stem seals aren't a common issue. I think the crank case pressure results speak for themselves.
How many miles are on the car? Unless it has 150k, valve stem seals aren't a common issue. I think the crank case pressure results speak for themselves.
106k. They offered to let me send it in last time I called but I wanted to check these things first. I'll have to swap turbos anyway since I don't want the car sitting here inoperable. So I'll swap them in the next month and if the blue smoke is gone, mail this SOB back. I have to have this figured out by June 15th as that is the end of warranty period.
I was also told that they've only found "1 or 2" ball bearing stock frame turbo to burn oil due to an issue with the turbo. For that reason I want to be sure on my end so I have a leg to stand on if they find no issue.
106k. They offered to let me send it in last time I called but I wanted to check these things first. I'll have to swap turbos anyway since I don't want the car sitting here inoperable. So I'll swap them in the next month and if the blue smoke is gone, mail this SOB back. I have to have this figured out by June 15th as that is the end of warranty period.
I was also told that they've only found "1 or 2" ball bearing stock frame turbo to burn oil due to an issue with the turbo. For that reason I want to be sure on my end so I have a leg to stand on if they find no issue.
Hmm this is interesting. Have you thought about opening up the PCV side?
First, do you have any issues with your BB black? Which CHRA do you have? or are all BB chra xona rotor branded? I'm no expert in this area as until I saw this referb'd unit I ended up with, the BB turbos were way out of my price range.
Originally Posted by asu11
Hmm this is interesting. Have you thought about opening up the PCV side?
I have, but going to the 5/8" line to the intake already negatively affected my idle and it won't idle at all with the AC on I just found out last night. And it idles like absolute butt with the other 5/8" line going to the intake pipe which is why I had to just let it go to atmosphere with a 1/2" check valve. I don't think it will idle with any more unmetered air without tuning, and I'd rather not introduce more unmetered air.
I know its a closed system and technically metered air (?) but anything in the crankcase was metered and assumed to have gone out the exhaust as far as the ecu is concerned I believe.
I do have the STM fitting and I bought some of the 3/8" check valves mentioned earlier in this thread, but removing the stock pressed in piece was giving me trouble and I didn't want to F up my valve cover so I gave up on it.
I had a friend follow me leaving work last night and while I couldn't see it in my mirror he said it was faintly smoking anytime I was on the throttle and a good bit more when I was getting into it hard. Once we got on the interstate going 70-80 mph he said he couldn't see any smoke. But at those speeds it could have just been dissipating much faster because of how faint it was at lower speeds. When I got home it was smoking very faintly at idle and I got a decent noticeable puff coming to idle as I rolled into the garage.
But basically I have eliminated all crankcase pressure. I verified that pressure is between 0 and -0.7psi. My problem is with my engine or the turbo at this point. I'll know for sure hopefully this weekend after I go through the trouble of putting my stock turbo back on.
First, do you have any issues with your BB black? Which CHRA do you have? or are all BB chra xona rotor branded? I'm no expert in this area as until I saw this referb'd unit I ended up with, the BB turbos were way out of my price range.
I have, but going to the 5/8" line to the intake already negatively affected my idle and it won't idle at all with the AC on I just found out last night. And it idles like absolute butt with the other 5/8" line going to the intake pipe which is why I had to just let it go to atmosphere with a 1/2" check valve. I don't think it will idle with any more unmetered air without tuning, and I'd rather not introduce more unmetered air.
I know its a closed system and technically metered air (?) but anything in the crankcase was metered and assumed to have gone out the exhaust as far as the ecu is concerned I believe.
I do have the STM fitting and I bought some of the 3/8" check valves mentioned earlier in this thread, but removing the stock pressed in piece was giving me trouble and I didn't want to F up my valve cover so I gave up on it.
I had a friend follow me leaving work last night and while I couldn't see it in my mirror he said it was faintly smoking anytime I was on the throttle and a good bit more when I was getting into it hard. Once we got on the interstate going 70-80 mph he said he couldn't see any smoke. But at those speeds it could have just been dissipating much faster because of how faint it was at lower speeds. When I got home it was smoking very faintly at idle and I got a decent noticeable puff coming to idle as I rolled into the garage.
But basically I have eliminated all crankcase pressure. I verified that pressure is between 0 and -0.7psi. My problem is with my engine or the turbo at this point. I'll know for sure hopefully this weekend after I go through the trouble of putting my stock turbo back on.
Mine is an MHI BB Black. I had/have issues. I drilled out the side vent to -10AN(5/8) and added a saikou michi can that is routed back to my intake.
I also have a -10AN fitting on the rear that goes to another saikou can. Still have the stock pcv inline.
I need to clean out my entire IC system then test again for oil.
I don't think that 5/8 fitting has anything to do with your idle. Are you on MAF or SD?'
This is what the baffling/valve cover looks like inside for those interested. Its very easy to clean with baffles intact and don't let it scare you from doing so.
Just keep in mind once again the material of the cover is NOT magnetic, so if you leave stuff behind, you will risk damage from magnesium shavings.
As long as we get covers not spray painted, The new price is $150 which includes shipping back and all hardware.
These pictures I'm about to post below are to motivate others that like to "DIY" on everything they own to tackle the project themselves WITHOUT removing baffles.
Did you have to drill and tap all the holes to remount the baffling? I had my VC painted and I'm a bit concerned that theirs some sandblasting media still in the baffles even after cleaning for a few hours...
Originally Posted by tscompusa
This is what the baffling/valve cover looks like inside for those interested. Its very easy to clean with baffles intact and don't let it scare you from doing so.
Just keep in mind once again the material of the cover is NOT magnetic, so if you leave stuff behind, you will risk damage from magnesium shavings.
As long as we get covers not spray painted, The new price is $150 which includes shipping back and all hardware.
These pictures I'm about to post below are to motivate others that like to "DIY" on everything they own to tackle the project themselves WITHOUT removing baffles.
Did you have to drill and tap all the holes to remount the baffling? I had my VC painted and I'm a bit concerned that theirs some sandblasting media still in the baffles even after cleaning for a few hours...
This one was drill and tapped yes.
If it was sand blasted i would not even attempt to use it in my car. Baking soda would be ok though or non abrasive media blasting.
Sand embeds itself and its almost impossible to get all media out once its done from what I've researched.
Yikes. Thanks for the heads up. They sandblasted the outside before painting it & I cleaned it like a **** afterwards, but I was worried about inside the baffling. I guess in the end I gave myself a good excuse to get a JDM cover.
Originally Posted by tscompusa
This one was drill and tapped yes.
If it was sand blasted i would not even attempt to use it in my car. Baking soda would be ok though or non abrasive media blasting.
Sand embeds itself and its almost impossible to get all media out once its done from what I've researched.
I respectfully disagree re: leaving baffles in. I've done half dozen covers now (both my own car and friends). The swarf is super sharp so it embeds itself in all crevices. Only way (I've found) to ensure its clean is a chemical bath
Perhaps the vendors on here have a special cleaning method to fulfill their guarantees but I greet the baffle in method with skepticism
Below pics to illustrate the amount of swarf you will be dealing with:
If you do decide to remove the baffles you're faced with the problem of picking up the centre of the existing rivet; a little tool like this will do the trick. 100% accuracy every time
Mar 28, 2016, 12:38 PM
