for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
Mar 18, 2016, 07:24 AM
#1321
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Some people just don't understand that businesses are in business to....make money....lol.
The following 4 users liked this post by LetsGetThisDone:
bboypuertoroc (Mar 21, 2016),
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tscompusa (Mar 18, 2016),
_des_ (Mar 28, 2016)
Mar 18, 2016, 09:34 AM
#1322
http://www.detectivecoating.com/stor...egory=10333363
I have no affiliation but I had thought he was expensive but now you are showing me that their prices are reasonable.
Mar 18, 2016, 09:41 AM
#1323
That's understood but be smart enough to now what you are paying for my friend when dealing with business's hence why you go shopping ,referrals, or do it yourself.
Last edited by ceegutta; Mar 18, 2016 at 09:52 AM.
Mar 18, 2016, 09:57 AM
#1324
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
All I am saying is that for 200.00 one can get the valve cover powder coated and have two -10 bungs welded onto their valve cover! No one likes gettiing gouged at the pump. I will show you one sec
http://www.detectivecoating.com/stor...egory=10333363
I have no affiliation but I had thought he was expensive but now you are showing me that their prices are reasonable.
http://www.detectivecoating.com/stor...egory=10333363
I have no affiliation but I had thought he was expensive but now you are showing me that their prices are reasonable.
I did this mod myself, spent around $100 on tools to do it too. I didn't have a 1/2" pipe tap, and I didn't have a 23/32" drill bit. Tools I will never use again unless I drill another Evo valvecover. Tom's price is not out of line. Get over it.
The following 3 users liked this post by LetsGetThisDone:
Mar 18, 2016, 11:18 AM
#1325
Firstly, I'm not debating on price of services, he is taking on a lot of liability and potential bashing if something goes wrong with a customer, his fault or not.
All you need is
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-91395.html
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ill-44460.html
and the $3-$20 fitting of your choice.
Using a 22/32 or 23/32 bit isn't necessary. 3/4 is listed as an alternate size on some charts and really for this low pressure low assembly torque application it is fine.
Also, I bought two of these clamps and clamped the valve cover to the top of the door to the back of my garage with a piece of cardboard in between. This made it really easily to drill upwards to make sure no chips got into the baffling. All the chips either fell out our were just inside the hole. To be a little safer you could grease the bit up and wipe off/replace frequently.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ra...der-62122.html
I did buy a 23/32 bit but it was too much of a PITA to keep it from biting too much material so I just went all the way with the 3/4" unibit and said F it...
All you need is
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-91395.html
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ill-44460.html
and the $3-$20 fitting of your choice.
Using a 22/32 or 23/32 bit isn't necessary. 3/4 is listed as an alternate size on some charts and really for this low pressure low assembly torque application it is fine.
Also, I bought two of these clamps and clamped the valve cover to the top of the door to the back of my garage with a piece of cardboard in between. This made it really easily to drill upwards to make sure no chips got into the baffling. All the chips either fell out our were just inside the hole. To be a little safer you could grease the bit up and wipe off/replace frequently.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ra...der-62122.html
I did buy a 23/32 bit but it was too much of a PITA to keep it from biting too much material so I just went all the way with the 3/4" unibit and said F it...
Last edited by XSivPSI; Mar 18, 2016 at 11:30 AM.
The following users liked this post:
ceegutta (Mar 18, 2016)
Mar 18, 2016, 11:31 AM
#1326
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
I don't buy tools at harbor freight.
Thats your Prerogative and isn't relevant.
Mar 18, 2016, 11:37 AM
#1328
You would have to block the intake manifold off and run both sides to a vented catch can. You do sacrifice vacuum as letsgetthisdone mentioned and you do notice it driving.
Of course it is the most efficient way to fully vent though. You also will be breathing in vapors that are unhealthy from the breather filter. For a race car stand point its fine, but for a street car that's used a lot with windows down, i'm not sure id want that myself.
Of course it is the most efficient way to fully vent though. You also will be breathing in vapors that are unhealthy from the breather filter. For a race car stand point its fine, but for a street car that's used a lot with windows down, i'm not sure id want that myself.
Mar 18, 2016, 03:07 PM
#1329
I have the IM blocked with both VC ports routed to a VTA catch can. I did this back in the day(stock block and BBK stock frame turbo), because the IM would vacuum oil from the head back into the manifold when I would lift throttle at high rpm. Ever since making this change, I haven't really noticed any difference while driving, other than not getting the cloud of smoke anymore with that setup, or even my current one. Also, I live in Texas, so its almost always too hot to drive with the windows down, so no concern about the vapors. So....am I good to leave it as-is, or should I really make the change to a closed off system? I ask, because it seems that a lot of people are big proponents of the closed off system, so I just want to talk that out.
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GG06MR (Mar 21, 2016)
Mar 18, 2016, 05:42 PM
#1330
$95 for powder coat, and $90 PER fitting, so $180 for two fittings. AND that's a DSM valve cover. You can't weld to the Evo valvecover, unless you want a magnesium fire to burn down your garage. Nice try with the irrelevant comparison though.
I did this mod myself, spent around $100 on tools to do it too. I didn't have a 1/2" pipe tap, and I didn't have a 23/32" drill bit. Tools I will never use again unless I drill another Evo valvecover. Tom's price is not out of line. Get over it.
I did this mod myself, spent around $100 on tools to do it too. I didn't have a 1/2" pipe tap, and I didn't have a 23/32" drill bit. Tools I will never use again unless I drill another Evo valvecover. Tom's price is not out of line. Get over it.
First off if you don't use harbor freight tools that's your business!! Many a mechanic including myself uses many tools from harbor freight, Lowes and homedepot are big rip offs for those small tool items we are specifically talking about and the customer is being charged for that as well. You spent over a 100.00 on these tools you're foolish! So spend as foolish as you will.
Whether it's tapped or welded, one fitting a -10an(5/8 hole) fitted to a valve cover, tapped in the case of a Evo valve cover + powder coating ,PLUS POWDERCOATING is 185.00 And cleaning!!!! So which is the better deal!!! Drilled tap fitting and cleaning for 200.00 or 185.00 for one fitting and a freshly done painted valve cover cleaned out debris!
Last edited by ceegutta; Mar 18, 2016 at 05:50 PM.
Mar 18, 2016, 05:45 PM
#1331
Firstly, I'm not debating on price of services, he is taking on a lot of liability and potential bashing if something goes wrong with a customer, his fault or not.
All you need is
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-91395.html
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ill-44460.html
and the $3-$20 fitting of your choice.
Using a 22/32 or 23/32 bit isn't necessary. 3/4 is listed as an alternate size on some charts and really for this low pressure low assembly torque application it is fine.
Also, I bought two of these clamps and clamped the valve cover to the top of the door to the back of my garage with a piece of cardboard in between. This made it really easily to drill upwards to make sure no chips got into the baffling. All the chips either fell out our were just inside the hole. To be a little safer you could grease the bit up and wipe off/replace frequently.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ra...der-62122.html
I did buy a 23/32 bit but it was too much of a PITA to keep it from biting too much material so I just went all the way with the 3/4" unibit and said F it...
Drill America DWDRSD Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Economy Reduced-Shank Drill Bit, Black Oxide Finish, 1/2" Round Shank, Spiral Flute, 118 Degrees Conventional Point, 23/32" Size (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
All you need is
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-91395.html
and
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ill-44460.html
and the $3-$20 fitting of your choice.
Using a 22/32 or 23/32 bit isn't necessary. 3/4 is listed as an alternate size on some charts and really for this low pressure low assembly torque application it is fine.
Also, I bought two of these clamps and clamped the valve cover to the top of the door to the back of my garage with a piece of cardboard in between. This made it really easily to drill upwards to make sure no chips got into the baffling. All the chips either fell out our were just inside the hole. To be a little safer you could grease the bit up and wipe off/replace frequently.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ra...der-62122.html
I did buy a 23/32 bit but it was too much of a PITA to keep it from biting too much material so I just went all the way with the 3/4" unibit and said F it...
Drill America DWDRSD Series Qualtech High-Speed Steel Economy Reduced-Shank Drill Bit, Black Oxide Finish, 1/2" Round Shank, Spiral Flute, 118 Degrees Conventional Point, 23/32" Size (Pack of 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
common sense!! Evades some folks!
Mar 18, 2016, 07:43 PM
#1332
My fp black seems fine with an intake hose connected to the catch can then ran to valve cover and I used 5/8 hose and increased it right off the valve cover then disconnected the egr and installed a crank vent in its place. This way the turbo pulls the pressure out of the crankcase like stock.
Last edited by 3gturbo; Mar 18, 2016 at 07:48 PM.
The following users liked this post:
ceegutta (Mar 19, 2016)
Mar 18, 2016, 10:37 PM
#1333
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by ceegutta
No you get over it!! And what's irrelevant?
First off if you don't use harbor freight tools that's your business!! Many a mechanic including myself uses many tools from harbor freight, Lowes and homedepot are big rip offs for those small tool items we are specifically talking about and the customer is being charged for that as well. You spent over a 100.00 on these tools you're foolish! So spend as foolish as you will.
Whether it's tapped or welded, one fitting a -10an(5/8 hole) fitted to a valve cover, tapped in the case of a Evo valve cover + powder coating ,PLUS POWDERCOATING is 185.00 And cleaning!!!! So which is the better deal!!! Drilled tap fitting and cleaning for 200.00 or 185.00 for one fitting and a freshly done painted valve cover cleaned out debris!
First off if you don't use harbor freight tools that's your business!! Many a mechanic including myself uses many tools from harbor freight, Lowes and homedepot are big rip offs for those small tool items we are specifically talking about and the customer is being charged for that as well. You spent over a 100.00 on these tools you're foolish! So spend as foolish as you will.
Whether it's tapped or welded, one fitting a -10an(5/8 hole) fitted to a valve cover, tapped in the case of a Evo valve cover + powder coating ,PLUS POWDERCOATING is 185.00 And cleaning!!!! So which is the better deal!!! Drilled tap fitting and cleaning for 200.00 or 185.00 for one fitting and a freshly done painted valve cover cleaned out debris!
You're continuing to fail to realize that people value their time. Tom clearly sells the service as evidenced by the several completed valve covers he's posted, and you're the first to complain. Maybe he goes a bit overkill on cleaning and it takes longer than it should. But he also guarantees that a chunk a magnesium isn't going to blow up your motor. That's a warranty you won't find anywhere else.
You're probably the same kind of guy that scoffed at me when I told him a full engine build with me doing all the labor would be $8k-9k, not including any manifold or head porting. Mostly because he was expecting to take his Evo from stock, to 600whp for $5k. If you don't like the price, you and your cheap tools can gtfo.
Mar 19, 2016, 01:41 AM
#1334
I don't shop at Home Depot for...anything. Vegas has a few legit hardware/tool stores that info to for specialty stuff. If I ever have to use the tools I bought on real material, like a 4340 chromoly piece, I know they'll do the job with 7 trips to harbor freight because they went dull after getting 50 thou deep...
You're continuing to fail to realize that people value their time. Tom clearly sells the service as evidenced by the several completed valve covers he's posted, and you're the first to complain. Maybe he goes a bit overkill on cleaning and it takes longer than it should. But he also guarantees that a chunk a magnesium isn't going to blow up your motor. That's a warranty you won't find anywhere else.
You're probably the same kind of guy that scoffed at me when I told him a full engine build with me doing all the labor would be $8k-9k, not including any manifold or head porting. Mostly because he was expecting to take his Evo from stock, to 600whp for $5k. If you don't like the price, you and your cheap tools can gtfo.
You're continuing to fail to realize that people value their time. Tom clearly sells the service as evidenced by the several completed valve covers he's posted, and you're the first to complain. Maybe he goes a bit overkill on cleaning and it takes longer than it should. But he also guarantees that a chunk a magnesium isn't going to blow up your motor. That's a warranty you won't find anywhere else.
You're probably the same kind of guy that scoffed at me when I told him a full engine build with me doing all the labor would be $8k-9k, not including any manifold or head porting. Mostly because he was expecting to take his Evo from stock, to 600whp for $5k. If you don't like the price, you and your cheap tools can gtfo.
8 to 9 k for your 600hp engine build no head work? You gtfo
I'll go to Buschur or some other reputable builder.SMH
Last edited by ceegutta; Mar 19, 2016 at 01:50 AM.