Need ideas, car won't run right
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From: fort myers fl
Need ideas, car won't run right
Here's the engine history, my last motor was bad so I replaced it with a buschur 2.3 bottom end, stage 3 head and there cam shafts. I'm using there hta3586r turbo kit with there race intercooler. The tuning is a stock ecu with tephras speed density and id1000 injectors and a double pumper. I also have a buschur ported throttle body and im.
When I try to start the car it is very difficult and has a really bad idle and air fuels are all over the place, my egts are anywhere from 1100-1600 at idle. I swapped out a cam sensor to see if that would help, no. I have new spark plugs, and new gas. I have a stock ignition that worked before and a buschur coil on plug. Due to tephra v7 turning a lot of things off, I'm not getting any check engine light. I did a boost leak test and compression test and both show that the motor is brand new. While idleing, the boost is at or around 0, it doesn't make enough vacuum to use the brakes and if I try to drive it it won't go over 2500 rpm and makes no power to use higher gears, but it's making 3-7 psi of boost.
I have datalogs if people would like to see them, me and Derek @ awd have been going back and forth and he has been very helpful but were starting to think it's not a tuning issue, has anyone encountered anything similar? It runs the same way as if someone disconnected the maf(I'm on sd though). We were able to get the short term fuel trims dial in at idle but then it just goes backwards when revved, I'm at +24% no matter where we adjust fuel and I believe the heat is making the turbo spool. I've checked every pin at the ecu and every sensor and looked at the cam timing at least 5 times, the cams line up with there respective marks on the valve cover and the crank is at the T mark on the front cover.
If you don't know what it is at least throw me ideas to try either in the tune, mechanically, or electronically.
When I try to start the car it is very difficult and has a really bad idle and air fuels are all over the place, my egts are anywhere from 1100-1600 at idle. I swapped out a cam sensor to see if that would help, no. I have new spark plugs, and new gas. I have a stock ignition that worked before and a buschur coil on plug. Due to tephra v7 turning a lot of things off, I'm not getting any check engine light. I did a boost leak test and compression test and both show that the motor is brand new. While idleing, the boost is at or around 0, it doesn't make enough vacuum to use the brakes and if I try to drive it it won't go over 2500 rpm and makes no power to use higher gears, but it's making 3-7 psi of boost.
I have datalogs if people would like to see them, me and Derek @ awd have been going back and forth and he has been very helpful but were starting to think it's not a tuning issue, has anyone encountered anything similar? It runs the same way as if someone disconnected the maf(I'm on sd though). We were able to get the short term fuel trims dial in at idle but then it just goes backwards when revved, I'm at +24% no matter where we adjust fuel and I believe the heat is making the turbo spool. I've checked every pin at the ecu and every sensor and looked at the cam timing at least 5 times, the cams line up with there respective marks on the valve cover and the crank is at the T mark on the front cover.
If you don't know what it is at least throw me ideas to try either in the tune, mechanically, or electronically.
someones gonna say it and it's probably not but it sounds like a huge ****ing leak. Like something is totally disconnected somewhere.
Has it ever run right since the engine was built?
If it was fine and now it's not then it's not the tune right?
Your compression and leakdown were both good so it's not something internal.
that leaves fuel system. Intake stuff (hoses, vacuum lines, sensors)
I'll bet you something is not hooked up.
Good luck man.
EDIT: just re read your post. Do you have the ability to make changes to your map?
You should turn the test for CELs back on. Not that hard. Your car knows what the problem is, let IT tell you man.
Has it ever run right since the engine was built?
If it was fine and now it's not then it's not the tune right?
Your compression and leakdown were both good so it's not something internal.
that leaves fuel system. Intake stuff (hoses, vacuum lines, sensors)
I'll bet you something is not hooked up.
Good luck man.

EDIT: just re read your post. Do you have the ability to make changes to your map?
You should turn the test for CELs back on. Not that hard. Your car knows what the problem is, let IT tell you man.
Last edited by motocooney; Nov 20, 2010 at 01:30 PM.
x2 it sounds like a huge leak if there's 0" of vacuum at idle. 1100-1600 egt at idle sounds like it's extremely lean or timing is advanced really far. Did you keep closed loop operations for idle and cruise? My speed density map is for precision 780cc so I don't think it'll benefit you too much. My tuner spent a good deal of time on it but it worked out great. Once you get it figured out you'll love it.
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From: fort myers fl
i did a boost leak test, and nothing leaks. that was my first thought too. its making boost at idle, which is why theres no vacuum.
i just built the engine Wednesday, and it hasn't run since.
ive been over fuel, vacuum and sensors
i just built the engine Wednesday, and it hasn't run since.
ive been over fuel, vacuum and sensors
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I had similar symptoms. Are you running both fuel pumps full time? Theres a thread on here by TedB talking about using a 9/64th drill bit in the return siphon line in the fuel pump housing. If the ID's are low Z they might be getting overrun with excess fuel pressure. Also, your scaling and latency may be off.
u can try swapping out your injectors.... see if you have a fu*ked up 02 sensor, since you can datalog and all that stuff, check your 02 voltage for the front sensor, if that dont work look into a possible bad exhaust leak, so have a smoke test done.... now are your spark plugs gapped right...sorry i know im givin u ideas but whatever gets it figured out...
+1 on that, also if you can borrow spare ECU to make sure its not going out.
I had similar symptoms. Are you running both fuel pumps full time? Theres a thread on here by TedB talking about using a 9/64th drill bit in the return siphon line in the fuel pump housing. If the ID's are low Z they might be getting overrun with excess fuel pressure. Also, your scaling and latency may be off.
He wouldn't need a smoke test to find an exhaust leak bad enough to make your car barely run. He'd hear it loud as hell.
Yeah if your scaling or latency are completely wrong (like not even close).
I did some searching around and I don't think it's possible to be boosting at idle. Like without revving it up. Are you sure your gauges are reading correctly?
Yeah if your scaling or latency are completely wrong (like not even close).
I did some searching around and I don't think it's possible to be boosting at idle. Like without revving it up. Are you sure your gauges are reading correctly?
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