Crankshaft position sensor question
The car pops off at every turn of the key and doesn't idle weird at all it's just when i'm driving it. It has 119k miles and the spark plugs are brand new. The code it's throwing is P0335 saying Crankshaft position sensor. The CEL is on and i've replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor already. It only misfires when i'm going about 60-70mph which is about at 3,000rpms. It makes a weird sound when its misfiring and it bogs down a little.
It looks like the sensor might be in early stages of 'going bad' ... mine started in a similar way (but i had ~70k miles.) First a few hiccups while driving, later I started having difficulty getting the engine to turn over (at first it was once every few weeks, and finally to 1-2 times week.)
I'd recommend buying a new sensor from mitsubishiparts.net and getting it replaced relatively soon, before any engine starting difficulties come up.
Hi, I think I may have a similar if not the same issue with my 03' OZ Rally, its not the Evo however I heard Lancers in general have had ongoing issues with the sensors....
After replacing the clutch/turning the flywheel and getting the car on the road I noticed there is an intermittent problem with the car starting. Sometimes it takes a few turns of the key for the car to finally turn over. It leaves me to believe it is an eletrical issue because when the key is turned, the lights/dash lights come on, however when turned to the start position it doesn't even make a CLICK... takes a couple turns, then starts right up. However other times it starts first turn of the key.
I read there is a clutch adjustment sensor near the pedal.
After changing the clutch and the battery being out for about a month I heard some sensors/guages reset themselves....so it may either be this clutch pedal sensor or Cam/Crank sesnor.
Any help is most welcome!
After replacing the clutch/turning the flywheel and getting the car on the road I noticed there is an intermittent problem with the car starting. Sometimes it takes a few turns of the key for the car to finally turn over. It leaves me to believe it is an eletrical issue because when the key is turned, the lights/dash lights come on, however when turned to the start position it doesn't even make a CLICK... takes a couple turns, then starts right up. However other times it starts first turn of the key.
I read there is a clutch adjustment sensor near the pedal.
After changing the clutch and the battery being out for about a month I heard some sensors/guages reset themselves....so it may either be this clutch pedal sensor or Cam/Crank sesnor.
Any help is most welcome!
Hi, I think I may have a similar if not the same issue with my 03' OZ Rally, its not the Evo however I heard Lancers in general have had ongoing issues with the sensors....
After replacing the clutch/turning the flywheel and getting the car on the road I noticed there is an intermittent problem with the car starting. Sometimes it takes a few turns of the key for the car to finally turn over. It leaves me to believe it is an eletrical issue because when the key is turned, the lights/dash lights come on, however when turned to the start position it doesn't even make a CLICK... takes a couple turns, then starts right up. However other times it starts first turn of the key.
I read there is a clutch adjustment sensor near the pedal.
After changing the clutch and the battery being out for about a month I heard some sensors/guages reset themselves....so it may either be this clutch pedal sensor or Cam/Crank sesnor.
Any help is most welcome!
After replacing the clutch/turning the flywheel and getting the car on the road I noticed there is an intermittent problem with the car starting. Sometimes it takes a few turns of the key for the car to finally turn over. It leaves me to believe it is an eletrical issue because when the key is turned, the lights/dash lights come on, however when turned to the start position it doesn't even make a CLICK... takes a couple turns, then starts right up. However other times it starts first turn of the key.
I read there is a clutch adjustment sensor near the pedal.
After changing the clutch and the battery being out for about a month I heard some sensors/guages reset themselves....so it may either be this clutch pedal sensor or Cam/Crank sesnor.
Any help is most welcome!
With what you're describing it does look like it might be a problem with the Cam or Crank angle sensor. (Although my guess would be on the Crank sensor, since that's what I've always been seeing.)
While it is possible that the issue might be with the Clutch Interlock sensor as you mentioned, I don't think it is very likely based on my past experiences (pic attached of sensor)
It's very likely that your ECU will not throw any code, so to keep expenses to a minimum try starting with the Crank angle sensor (this sensor is harder to get to so you might want to take your car to a shop.) .... Replacing the Crank angle sensor should resolve the problem, but if it does not then the next step would be the Cam angle sensor. (In the Evo the Cam angle sensor is very easy to get to and can be done in ~5 min, it should be equally accessible in the OZ version too.)
Last edited by NeoGearX; Jan 14, 2012 at 06:32 PM. Reason: fixed typo
Thank you for the feedback
Yeah I'm starting to lean towards the crank sensor as well from what I've been reading.
As long as it's not as difficult as replacing the dam clutch on those things haha. Had to drop and tilt the entire engine to get to it and remove all the subframe and separate the trani case.
I am new to Mitsubishi Lancers or Mitsubishi in general, do the factory clutches have a short wear time? I have read people having to replace them after 7,000km...stating they have not abused it. I think the highest I have read on here from someone starting to have clutch problems was around 70,000km. I figured most clutches (treated well) last over 100,000k?
Canadian by the way so I work in km haha.
Yeah I'm starting to lean towards the crank sensor as well from what I've been reading.
As long as it's not as difficult as replacing the dam clutch on those things haha. Had to drop and tilt the entire engine to get to it and remove all the subframe and separate the trani case.
I am new to Mitsubishi Lancers or Mitsubishi in general, do the factory clutches have a short wear time? I have read people having to replace them after 7,000km...stating they have not abused it. I think the highest I have read on here from someone starting to have clutch problems was around 70,000km. I figured most clutches (treated well) last over 100,000k?
Canadian by the way so I work in km haha.
Thank you for the feedback
Yeah I'm starting to lean towards the crank sensor as well from what I've been reading.
As long as it's not as difficult as replacing the dam clutch on those things haha. Had to drop and tilt the entire engine to get to it and remove all the subframe and separate the trani case.
I am new to Mitsubishi Lancers or Mitsubishi in general, do the factory clutches have a short wear time? I have read people having to replace them after 7,000km...stating they have not abused it. I think the highest I have read on here from someone starting to have clutch problems was around 70,000km. I figured most clutches (treated well) last over 100,000k?
Canadian by the way so I work in km haha.
Yeah I'm starting to lean towards the crank sensor as well from what I've been reading.
As long as it's not as difficult as replacing the dam clutch on those things haha. Had to drop and tilt the entire engine to get to it and remove all the subframe and separate the trani case.
I am new to Mitsubishi Lancers or Mitsubishi in general, do the factory clutches have a short wear time? I have read people having to replace them after 7,000km...stating they have not abused it. I think the highest I have read on here from someone starting to have clutch problems was around 70,000km. I figured most clutches (treated well) last over 100,000k?
Canadian by the way so I work in km haha.
Yeah that's the mileage I thought the average clutch lasted. Since I had to replace the one in the Lancer OZ I just bought and did some research; I had just found a lot of cases where people have bought a bran new Lancer, had the clutch go at very low mileage with plenty of warranty, and could not get it replaced under the warranty...which is understandable due to it being a part which wears under the drivers use. So like you said they could all be lying, saying they don't drive like they're on a race track every day lol...
I just found a lot of instances where people were complaining of the clutches slipping prematurely....Although I'm not sure if this goes for the Evolutions since I assume they have an upgraded clutch.
As for the Crankshaft position sensor in my car, I'm not sure if that is it. Wouldn't that sensor mainly just prevent the car from actually starting or cause it to stall instead of not cranking over at all? The issue is that it intermittently doesn't crank over what so ever or even make that "click" sound like when your battery is dead. Others have told me to check the connections in the Starter as they may be worn down amongst other things.
Either way thank you for all the info, appreciate it!
I just found a lot of instances where people were complaining of the clutches slipping prematurely....Although I'm not sure if this goes for the Evolutions since I assume they have an upgraded clutch.
As for the Crankshaft position sensor in my car, I'm not sure if that is it. Wouldn't that sensor mainly just prevent the car from actually starting or cause it to stall instead of not cranking over at all? The issue is that it intermittently doesn't crank over what so ever or even make that "click" sound like when your battery is dead. Others have told me to check the connections in the Starter as they may be worn down amongst other things.
Either way thank you for all the info, appreciate it!
Found the problem
Just FYI, found the problem relating to the starting issue. I took apart the steering column, and disconnected the clutch sensor to allow for testing. I held the key to the start position and started wiggling the wire/electrical clusters on the left side of the steering column opposite to the key ignition. The one white electrical ignition module on the left which turns on the inside when the key is turned seemed to have a loose connection. When I moved it the car started immediately. I disconnected the wire attachment, crimped the inside connections closer together, tightened everything back up and haven't had a problem since!
Thank you for the input
Just FYI, found the problem relating to the starting issue. I took apart the steering column, and disconnected the clutch sensor to allow for testing. I held the key to the start position and started wiggling the wire/electrical clusters on the left side of the steering column opposite to the key ignition. The one white electrical ignition module on the left which turns on the inside when the key is turned seemed to have a loose connection. When I moved it the car started immediately. I disconnected the wire attachment, crimped the inside connections closer together, tightened everything back up and haven't had a problem since!
Thank you for the input
Found the problem
Just FYI, found the problem relating to the starting issue. I took apart the steering column, and disconnected the clutch sensor to allow for testing. I held the key to the start position and started wiggling the wire/electrical clusters on the left side of the steering column opposite to the key ignition. The one white electrical ignition module on the left which turns on the inside when the key is turned seemed to have a loose connection. When I moved it the car started immediately. I disconnected the wire attachment, crimped the inside connections closer together, tightened everything back up and haven't had a problem since!
Thank you for the input
Just FYI, found the problem relating to the starting issue. I took apart the steering column, and disconnected the clutch sensor to allow for testing. I held the key to the start position and started wiggling the wire/electrical clusters on the left side of the steering column opposite to the key ignition. The one white electrical ignition module on the left which turns on the inside when the key is turned seemed to have a loose connection. When I moved it the car started immediately. I disconnected the wire attachment, crimped the inside connections closer together, tightened everything back up and haven't had a problem since!
Thank you for the input

Ok, year old thread bump. Just had issue with starting Car after work today had to push start it and it gave me the p0335. I had issue with it starting a few times about 9 months ago but nothing since. No issues while driving at all. Is it a starter issue a crank/cam issue or just my cars time of the month.
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