How are you checking for this?

 

Throw one of your old injectors on the wires with some resistors / no resistors whatever they need and see if they're pulsing / clicking ...

 

There are not too many options to cause the problem you're experiencing. I'm sure you've double checked the steps you took in the process, but that's where your problem is if your injector system worked before. So, injector resister box wiring and plugs, injector wire transition from stock loom to injectors, and injectors are the changes there. Did you rewire the injector loom with pigtails, or use adapters from T1? How did you bypass the resister box? If you put your old injectors in the circuit, and they work, the problem is probably in the modifications you did to the resister box... otherwise, the issue is in another part of the wiring or sensor setup, that got worked on while you were making the change to the injectors, like the crank sensor plug I mentioned before.

Let us know what you find.

 

Yes I rewired the pigtails.. I didn't have the plug an play harness but the strange part is when I crank the car over it's all so not reading rpm...???

 

does the car start, or does it just turn over? I did the same install a week ago & it went pretty smooth.

I did forget to plug my fuel pump back in after relieving the fuel pressure tho.

 

no the car turns over....

 

How do you know you're getting spark for sure? Simply checking for power to the coils doesn't tell you if you're getting spark. The crank sensor still needs to be operational to tell the coils when to fire.

 

I don't think you see RPM when cranking...could be wrong. I'd go check but I'm stuck on mid shifts all week and it's cold outside.

Probably beating the horse to death here but take a second look at anything you touched. Look for pinched wires especially, and is your cam sensor slightly broken?

Check your solder joints, assuming you soldered the pigtails. Sometimes if you solder and heat shrink over sharp edges, the wires can arc. Obviously you couldn't have wired them backwards!

 

You can wire the injector wiring "backwards", if you swap the two wires different than the manual (stock), but most people say it does not matter. IDK, I made sure to follow the manual's positions after reading some technical articles about the question. Anyway, that won't prevent your injectors from firing.

Back on track. You say "both wires to the back of the injector plug are hot", and "the cam sensors are fine". Please explain the method you used to check the wiring and the sensors were workng properly, including the crank sensor. Also, did you pull the fuel connection to the rail and make sure you're actually getting pressurized fuel at the rail itself?

Since you said you are building the car, when was the last time you ran it and everything was working properly? Just before the injector switch, or were there a lot of changes while you were doing the build?

What computer are you using? If it's an aftermarket, did you check it, too? Any settings in the ECU that affect the fuel? Fuel pump circuit tested?

 

Thanks for the help guys I will check tomarrow...