Gents,

Can I get recommendations of which internals is best for my 2.3 Stroker re-build...?
This is a comprehensive grocery list I'm thinking of purchasing:-

• Supertech 4G63 Bronze Valve Guides
• Supertech 4G63 Valve Seals
• GSC Power-Division 4G63 Zero-Tick Lifters (4042)
• GSC Power-Division 4G63 Single Beehive Spring, Ti Retainers, and Spring Seats (5041)
• Manley Intake Stainless Steel Valves 34mm (standard head diameter) - Part No.11134-8
• Manley Exhaust Stainless Steel Valves 30.5mm (standard head diameter) - Part No.11133-8
• Manley Sport Compact Valve Locks - Part No.13016-8
• Manley Turbo Tuff Billet 100mm Stroke Crank - Part No.190120B
• Manley 150mm TT I-Beam Conrods - Part No.14403-4 (c/w ARP 2000 cap screws. Not sure if ARP 625+ bolts would be an overkill..?)
• Manley Platinum Series Pistons 85.5mm Dia. / -22cc Dish / 8.5 CR - Part No.608005C-4 c/w 9310 Upgraded Pins
• ACL Race Main Bearings c/w Thrusts
• ACL Race Rod Bearing
• ARP 4G63 Headstuds
• ARP 4G63 Case Bolts
• Complete 4G63 engine gasket kit (Incl. headgasket)
• Cosworth Cambelt

Now...not sure whats more cost affective with regards to the shortblock.
Me buying the parts individually, and doing the Engineering work locally myself, or perhaps rather purchase a Buschur Racing Evo 8 Stage 3 Shortblock (2.3L Stroker)...?

Don't think the 2.3 Stroker shortblock assembly on their website has billet crank + TT I-beam Conrods...hmmm

I need some advise please...

Thanks.

Phoenix*

 

If you can do it yourself do it yourself, you'll save $.. but that list looks pretty good to me.

You might wanna contact Buschur to ask him what he can do for you just to see anyways. they just released a new 2.3L that can rev higher then the standard.

definitely stick with the Manley turbo tuff i-beam rods and arp equip and also je or wiseco pistons.

 

^what he said..im pretty sure your list is basically what youd get at buschur. They havent listed the higher revving 2.3 on the site yet

 

you got a pertty good set up there and i have no doubt that buschur will throw in the parts you want just give them a call and see what best works for you, but it does save to DIY

 

i'd go Kiggly beehives rather than GSC. I can't use Ignition based cuts on my car with GSC valve springs because the seat pressure is too low.

 

Buschur's new 2.3 costs 4.8k.....has both manley rods and crank..

 

Please elaborate...???

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-backfire.html

 

@ RSMike...

Thanks for the info...
Keep me posted, if you decide to go for the Kiggly spring set...

 

he doesn't know this.. hes running -30deg of timing and 100%idc between shifts and expecting the car not to slightly foul the plugs

if he had leakdown tested his car and found that the seat pressure was too low. I'd listen...

 

Some **** thoughts:

1) I Would shoot for 9.5cr pistons... there are many benefits, higher efficiency, and better fuel consumption.

2). I would get oil shedding coating on the rods and maybe crank, and more importantly, some nice performance coating on the piston crowns. Oil shedding on the back side. PROVEN PERFORMANCE many times....

3). MAP is one of the companies which can ceramic coat, assemble and do a simple performance valve job (given half the performance gains of a Fully ported head) on your head for around 700$

4). Instead of going with 9130 upgraded pins for extra cost, An option with more benefits would be some Titanium pins with Diamond like coating. They weight in at 67 grams, saving another 350grams from your already lightened rotating assembly. If you're actually buying the GSC lifters you can get them DLC (diamond like coated) as well for a little extra charge.

5) The Manley rods are proven to be the heaviest I-beam rods, In my opinion there is more to be had with some MAP Howards rods or R&R billet I beams, less weight and larger bolts. The howards rod also feature wider, therefore better 6 bolt bearings. R&R maybe also... dunno

6). A Buschur baffled oil pan, Kracka vent kit and/or a good air/oil separator from the block and/or head will go a long way in performance and stress relief without breaking the bank... The oil pan and girdle can be coated with some oil sheddings stuff to finish the motor off..

7). Get the l-19 headstuds... and if you do the block yourself, install/align the main studs and hone ON A PLATE!

8). Some supertech seals had premature failure, I would get Ferreas +1 on the KIGGLY VALVETRAIN

9) AMS balance shaft delete kit

just some opinions and gossip of the top of my head...

 

That being said...
Which valve springs would you rate best...?
Kiggly...?

 

@ STi*guy.kiev...

Sent you a PM...

Thanks for the advise!

 

GSC 2.2L Short Block and call it a Day...