New setup won't start, help?
Apr 17, 2011, 07:39 AM
#16
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Open up your fuel pump assembly to make sure all the lines are intact and attached. Next thing to check would be fuel filter if you run race gas or alcohol.
Apr 24, 2011, 02:03 PM
#18
crank sensor was my first guess.
I changed out crank sensor
exhaust cam pos sensor
disabled immobilizer
still nothing. Sprayed ether into throttle body as an accelerant, nothing. Car is getting fuel, but no spark or weak spark. New plugs, tried both stock coils and coil on plug, no start still. I have a feeling that my plugs may be fouled now from sitting in fuel. Might try another set of plugs.
Any other ideas why it's not priming? I still think its related to the weak or lack of spark.
Rob
I changed out crank sensor
exhaust cam pos sensor
disabled immobilizer
still nothing. Sprayed ether into throttle body as an accelerant, nothing. Car is getting fuel, but no spark or weak spark. New plugs, tried both stock coils and coil on plug, no start still. I have a feeling that my plugs may be fouled now from sitting in fuel. Might try another set of plugs.
Any other ideas why it's not priming? I still think its related to the weak or lack of spark.
Rob
Apr 25, 2011, 08:08 AM
#19
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Have you looked at your battery voltage? If there is not sufficient cranking power, your car will have a very hard time starting. Even when the battery shows 12.7 volts, that voltage may drop too much when cranking. Get a multimeter and see what's going on. Or try jump cables connected to another healthy running car.
Sometimes it can be the simplest thing.
Sometimes it can be the simplest thing.
Apr 25, 2011, 08:31 AM
#20
^ this was another thought too! I'm going to try to grab some new plugs today. I'm running a small battery and this is probably a good reason. I've had it on a charger non stop but those things aren't rated for more than like 220cca or mayb 14 seconds or so. I have a new optima I might try to hook up to it.
I figure if I can get it running it will throw me a code.
Rob
I figure if I can get it running it will throw me a code.
Rob
May 1, 2011, 02:57 PM
#21
bought a new set of plugs today, factory ngk's for a evo 9. Also hooked it up to a brand new optima red top and tried cranking. If I pull plugs out and let the fuel vaporize out of the cylinders, then put it back together and crank it it will pop or backfire once then nothing like it floods again. It's getting spark just really weak and not enough to start.
I'm hitting my head against a wall right now. Any other ideas? I'm going to try to pull the timing cover off again and inspect the plate and crank angle sensor again, but it's all new and wasn't showing signs of wear on the old one when i took it off.
Anyone?
Rob
I'm hitting my head against a wall right now. Any other ideas? I'm going to try to pull the timing cover off again and inspect the plate and crank angle sensor again, but it's all new and wasn't showing signs of wear on the old one when i took it off.
Anyone?
Rob
May 3, 2011, 08:21 PM
#22
So I had a similar issue. I could not check my timing with a timing light. For me it ended up being that my base timing(AEM EMS) was set way to hight, I was using a rock chip in on the crank pully. After I figured that out and marked the crank pully with some whiteout, got the base timing set correctly, the car fires like a champ and runs great.
Also for me, my car was very hard to start. I would get some backfires and soaked plugs and pistons all the time. I went through like 5 sets of plugs.
However you are on a stock ecu so not sure if this will help at all.
Also for me, my car was very hard to start. I would get some backfires and soaked plugs and pistons all the time. I went through like 5 sets of plugs.
However you are on a stock ecu so not sure if this will help at all.
May 3, 2011, 10:56 PM
#23
this is great info and where I am at right now too.
Had a buddy come over yesterday and listened to it crank and cough twice after a couple cranks. Second set of ears on it and timing is definitely off. Also tested spark with old plugs ikh24 and they are firing perfectly and strong on stock coil.
its getting fuel, has good spark, timing is off!
All of the searching and pics I have found on timing the 2.4 mivec is obviously a bit blurry to me now.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...ng-belt-2.html
mines pretty much identical to this one. Only thing i can think of maybe is to advance the mivec map a little to see if it helps timing. I have a degree wheel set but it's too big to fit on the engine. I might have to look around for a smaller set to degree in my cams with the crank. My mivec gear was modified for more movement and when re installed, it had easy play because of no oil inside of it. I set that up at the mark full retarded which made the most sense and what I could find was right so that the only movement in it would be advance.
Had a buddy come over yesterday and listened to it crank and cough twice after a couple cranks. Second set of ears on it and timing is definitely off. Also tested spark with old plugs ikh24 and they are firing perfectly and strong on stock coil.
its getting fuel, has good spark, timing is off!
All of the searching and pics I have found on timing the 2.4 mivec is obviously a bit blurry to me now.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/en...ng-belt-2.html
mines pretty much identical to this one. Only thing i can think of maybe is to advance the mivec map a little to see if it helps timing. I have a degree wheel set but it's too big to fit on the engine. I might have to look around for a smaller set to degree in my cams with the crank. My mivec gear was modified for more movement and when re installed, it had easy play because of no oil inside of it. I set that up at the mark full retarded which made the most sense and what I could find was right so that the only movement in it would be advance.
May 4, 2011, 07:37 AM
#24
is this a brand new build? if so,
what lifters did you use with your build? new or used?
regardless, be certain they are bleed.
maybe a few lifters are bumped up & keeping a few valves open when they should be shut.
have you done a compression check? sorry if i missed it in a earlier post.
if no comp check, then I suggest pulling the valve cover, put each cylinder @ tdc, then verify you can wobble the lifter from side to side or be able to spin the roller to verify your not keeping a valve slightly open.
what lifters did you use with your build? new or used?
regardless, be certain they are bleed.
maybe a few lifters are bumped up & keeping a few valves open when they should be shut.
have you done a compression check? sorry if i missed it in a earlier post.
if no comp check, then I suggest pulling the valve cover, put each cylinder @ tdc, then verify you can wobble the lifter from side to side or be able to spin the roller to verify your not keeping a valve slightly open.
May 4, 2011, 08:39 AM
#25
Stock lifters, they were bled. New build. I retarded timing on exhaust cam by about 4 degrees or so on gear so it sits at retard .5 tooth on mivec gear and retard .5 tooth on exhaust gear with another 4 degrees or so on the adjustable gear itself. When I tried starting it it popped more this time rather than one back fire. Seemed more like it was coming out exhaust rather than almost a intake backfire. This tells me the exhaust cam has been too far advanced and needs to be retarded more.
Rob
Rob
Jun 4, 2011, 08:55 PM
#26
Bump for an update and more info:
I degreed the cams and adjusted the intake in the mivec map to compensate for the deck height on 4g64...TIMING IS RIGHT!
I have spark as confirmed by both the plugs arc'd to block and a clamp on tester on the plug wire on #1
I have fuel both pressure and injection
I have put in stock injectors now and scaled back to stock in ecu
Here's what's happening now:
When I first crank it, it might have a slight shriek/backfire almost in the intake mani,
then it floods out. You can pull an injector and see fuel on the piston top.
I have checked every sensor and every ground. I unplugged the second pump on the double pumper, I checked calibration on the tps with the s90 throttle body and it's where it is per service manual.
I NEED SOME MORE IDEAS!!! I have had 4 different people look at it from all sorts of different backgrounds and we are all out of ideas. I don't have any good shops around to even tow it to not too mention anyone I tow it to will charge me to go back through and check everything I have already checked!
Rob
I degreed the cams and adjusted the intake in the mivec map to compensate for the deck height on 4g64...TIMING IS RIGHT!
I have spark as confirmed by both the plugs arc'd to block and a clamp on tester on the plug wire on #1
I have fuel both pressure and injection
I have put in stock injectors now and scaled back to stock in ecu
Here's what's happening now:
When I first crank it, it might have a slight shriek/backfire almost in the intake mani,
then it floods out. You can pull an injector and see fuel on the piston top.
I have checked every sensor and every ground. I unplugged the second pump on the double pumper, I checked calibration on the tps with the s90 throttle body and it's where it is per service manual.
I NEED SOME MORE IDEAS!!! I have had 4 different people look at it from all sorts of different backgrounds and we are all out of ideas. I don't have any good shops around to even tow it to not too mention anyone I tow it to will charge me to go back through and check everything I have already checked!
Rob
Oct 27, 2011, 11:47 PM
#27
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Valley mode is a tephra mod that when setup can allow you to make your car enter limp mode. With a specific rpm limit/speed limit. When not setup it will not allow the car to start. When I changed over to v7 it automatically engaged. This prevented me from starting my car. It seems that you have checked virtually everything else. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Turn the ignition to in and hold the throttle petal to the floor for 10 sec. You should see a cel flash and then let off. Turn the key to off and try starting it.
Turn the ignition to in and hold the throttle petal to the floor for 10 sec. You should see a cel flash and then let off. Turn the key to off and try starting it.
To the OP, did you ever figure out what was wrong?
Nov 10, 2011, 07:18 AM
#28
I'm having a similar issue...no back fires but motor turns over fine but wont run....My main pump no longer primes. I too have a double pumper set up....car has gone 10,000 miles on this build and done fine besides a clutch issue. I'm think something with the double pumper set is causing this. I run AEM EMS with two intank walbros...the sec pump is hard wired and works fine...i figured direct wiring this pump would get me home but it didn't. Not sure if the cylinders aare flooded. Havent checked because I'm sure the pump not priming is tied in with why the car isn't starting. HELP!!!
Jun 10, 2013, 01:19 PM
#29
Any word on the fixes? I am having this issue. New BR2.3RPM, grouns have been checked. I have fuel pooling on the pistons.
-AEM V1
-Drained E85 replaced with new e85
-New plugs
-going to send my injectors to FIC to have them clean (2150s)
-pops like it wants to start but doesnt.
-Walbro 400, primes fuel rail to 43psi then drops to 20spi after engine turn over. Could this be the problem? doesnt seem like it but I could be wrong.
-New knock sensor on build.
-new Topline lifters in built head.
-totally lost on what to look for next.
-Cam angle position looks to be in the right position.
-AEM V1
-Drained E85 replaced with new e85
-New plugs
-going to send my injectors to FIC to have them clean (2150s)
-pops like it wants to start but doesnt.
-Walbro 400, primes fuel rail to 43psi then drops to 20spi after engine turn over. Could this be the problem? doesnt seem like it but I could be wrong.
-New knock sensor on build.
-new Topline lifters in built head.
-totally lost on what to look for next.
-Cam angle position looks to be in the right position.
