Since i spun a bearing and i need to replace cranks . I have been looking into the manley turbo tuff units . Just wondering peoples experiences with them . Wasn't sure about going with a forged unit or there billet series .

Anyone use them ...

 

I have a manley forged crank with manley forged rods, and they work really great. I got a good deal on them with wiseco pistons.

The billet crank is really expensive.

 

I just went through the same thing, but didn't even ask the question as to which one was better of the Manley cranks. I saw the prices and went with the cheaper one. I did some research however, and this is what I came up with.

From what I've gathered, the most important thing to note is what type of steel was used.
http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.c...tvsForged.html
This was a great helping of info for me. I'm having trouble finding a site that shows if the race series crank is made from 4340. However, this site shows that it is: http://www.theboombopshop.com/Manley...ley-190110.htm

The next bit of information is on the knife edging. If you are building an engine that you are going to be shooting for an rpm of over 8000, you could either get it knife edged or purchase the billet crank. On manley's website it shows the billet crank as having a longer stroke, knife edged and lighter weight: http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/2011/cranks.pdf I ran into a site that said race series crank was knife edged, but it isn't.

Hope that helps

 

I'm running a JAM built 2.0 with budget a manley crank and h beam rods. I trust Jam's expertise in putting the whole thing together properly over any particular component or manufactuer. I went with a forged crank over OEM on thier suggestion and have not been displeased. It is only a mild street car but it gets a fair amount of abuse as I'm a newbie tuner and my Little HKS turbo dishes out the hurt on the bottom end at fairly low RPM.

 

good info. that helps :] i've got a engine build in progress. ordered the manley billet crank already. i'll let you know if there are any problems as it all comes together

 

i run a forged manley crank and rods, and have confirmation from manley that its fine for even 600whp setup's. Im currently running 500whp and its holding great. no issues

/dave

 

Just because someone's honky-a$$ web site says 4340, while NONE of the other ones do, don't assume they're correct. Because Manley thinks 4340 is note worthy, if the forged unit was 4340, chances are they'd specify.

I'm willing to bet the forged unit is not entirely 4340.


Anyway,

Are there any updates on the forged unit?
Is there any proof it'll oil better than OEM?
Anyone break one yet??

 

Fine for around 5-600 hp? I sure would hope if its an aftermarket billet crank it can hold more than that especially when the stock oem crank has been proven over 900hp

 

Yeah, the billet one is probably good for it, but I'm looking for info on the forged option. What is the point of them if they can't match a cheaper OEM unit ? Is the oem billet or forged?

 

I run the forged one in my car, and a few other engines with no problems.

 

Yes! Thanks for the feedback! I really appreciate it.
If it's good for 150mph, regardless your car weight, it's good enough for me.

Can you tell me if any work was required out of the box? Thanks!