Exedy twin lockout!!
Exedy twin lockout!!
HELP! I've had my exedy twin HD for over 2 years and around 20,000 miles. Recently I've had problems getting the car into reverse. Now first gear is starting to be stubborn as well. Clutch discs grab just like new. I'm only making 325 hp and 310 lb. ft. Adjusted the clutch pedal, swapped master cylinder and slave cylinder and of course bled the whole system. Changed all fluids (tranny, t case, diff and engine). Still getting locked out of reverse when the car is warm! This is a $1500 clutch and pretty much the go to replacement for the stocker. Did I just get a defect? Anyone have suggestions? I'd really like to exhaust all possibilities before I pay the $$$ to pull the clutch to inspect the pressure plate.
Did you dump the clutch recently? Bad launches? Are you able to get into gear with the car off? or able to drive it still but tough getting into gears? Sounds like you need a clutch job. One of the disc got misaligned. Don't ask me how I know 
20,000 miles on a twin is quite good actually...
My exedy twin hd only lasted me 3k miles...I'll never buy another one. A lot of guys like them though.
If it was a defect you would have had problems a LONG time ago. Have you tried going to 1st then reverse? I do that every time I go to reverse cause it lines up the synchro's. Goes into reverse much easier. Sounds like you've pretty much covered everything, but do you have a clutch fork stop?
My exedy twin hd only lasted me 3k miles...I'll never buy another one. A lot of guys like them though.
If it was a defect you would have had problems a LONG time ago. Have you tried going to 1st then reverse? I do that every time I go to reverse cause it lines up the synchro's. Goes into reverse much easier. Sounds like you've pretty much covered everything, but do you have a clutch fork stop?
sounds like what's happening but I have never dumped the clutch or launched the car on the Exedy...
20,000 miles on a twin is quite good actually...
My exedy twin hd only lasted me 3k miles...I'll never buy another one. A lot of guys like them though.
If it was a defect you would have had problems a LONG time ago. Have you tried going to 1st then reverse? I do that every time I go to reverse cause it lines up the synchro's. Goes into reverse much easier. Sounds like you've pretty much covered everything, but do you have a clutch fork stop?
My exedy twin hd only lasted me 3k miles...I'll never buy another one. A lot of guys like them though.
If it was a defect you would have had problems a LONG time ago. Have you tried going to 1st then reverse? I do that every time I go to reverse cause it lines up the synchro's. Goes into reverse much easier. Sounds like you've pretty much covered everything, but do you have a clutch fork stop?
20K on the exedy is good but I was lucky enough to get to 30K even with a few launches here and there before a rebuilt was needed.
Take it to a shop and have them look at it through that peep hole. There's a chance that they can diagnose it just by looking in there before you decide to really do it.
Take it to a shop and have them look at it through that peep hole. There's a chance that they can diagnose it just by looking in there before you decide to really do it.
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http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co..._fork_stop.htm
Highly recommend it. Unless you have fun pulling your transmission off.
Highly recommend it. Unless you have fun pulling your transmission off.
Guys, stop recommending the clutch fork stop, that's completely irrelevant to the problem at hand.
You likely have a slightly warped intermediate plate which will require pulling the trans.
Get the car to the point where the clutch doesn't want to go in (while you're in your driveway). Now hold the clutch in still and keep the shifter at the point of resistance (don't need much pressure) and turn the car off. If it now slips into gear easily you know it's your clutch. Exedy twins are sensitive to warping/warped plates, check every component against a straightedge while it's out.
You likely have a slightly warped intermediate plate which will require pulling the trans.
Get the car to the point where the clutch doesn't want to go in (while you're in your driveway). Now hold the clutch in still and keep the shifter at the point of resistance (don't need much pressure) and turn the car off. If it now slips into gear easily you know it's your clutch. Exedy twins are sensitive to warping/warped plates, check every component against a straightedge while it's out.
if your clutch adjustment is wrong, it could be pulling slightly on the clutch release bearing.
This effectively reduces your total clamping forces, causing your clutch to slip.
Slipping creates heat, and heat warps the plates.
Normally the centre floater pressure plate doesn't warp because it's receiving heat from both sides.
Normally the top pressure plate does warp. It is very skinny (5mm on the edges) and it warps in the middle (towards the centre, i can show you pics if you like).
If you can't get it into gear, it could be dragging.
Try putting the car into 1st gear, leave your foot on the clutch and rev it (with brakes off). If the car tries to move, the clutch plates are not fully disengaging.
just some ideas
This effectively reduces your total clamping forces, causing your clutch to slip.
Slipping creates heat, and heat warps the plates.
Normally the centre floater pressure plate doesn't warp because it's receiving heat from both sides.
Normally the top pressure plate does warp. It is very skinny (5mm on the edges) and it warps in the middle (towards the centre, i can show you pics if you like).
If you can't get it into gear, it could be dragging.
Try putting the car into 1st gear, leave your foot on the clutch and rev it (with brakes off). If the car tries to move, the clutch plates are not fully disengaging.
just some ideas
same thing happened to me with my exedy twin after quite a few thousand miles, had a hard time getting into reverse... took the clutch off and it pretty much just needed a rebuild, you can't complain! 20k is a quite a bit out of twin plate
I was under the impression that this clutch would last a lot longer than it has. My stocker lasted 30K! I figured given the low amount of torque I am making the exedy would last pretty much til I sell the car as it is know to hold considerably more power than I have! Otherwise I'd have bought a different clutch. $2500 for a new twin including install, then another $800 to rebuild 2 years later? Plus another $600-$700 to pull the clutch and reinstall??? That is pretty ridiculous. That's $4000 in clutch in 2 years and all I do is daily the car. I guess I was just misguided. I'll go back to an ACT Street if that's the case.
if your oem clutch lasted you only 30k then I am sorry but you are damaging the clutches yourself by not knowing how to drive. I still have my oem and i have launched the shiiit out of it, and as for your exedy it is definitely shot. You are better off rebuilding it, and get a different mechanic, because $2500 for the clutch and installation is a lot.
