im searching for turbo as well, called my friend who is building race/rally dsm/evos for years and he told me same thing bout stock shaft and big/heavy wheels, he said fp red/green is good to show numbers on dyno but when you take it harder on track it is gonna be guaranteed failure, he s building evos for rally america now and says that HKS is the only way to go

 

Well its definitely the turbo. I took the intake off and the compressor blade was full of oil. So back to FP it goes, I really hope they don't give me any trouble and can get it done quickly.

 

valvoline vr 1 10w - 30 all day on my fpred !!

 

oil on the compressor is more likely crankcase/pcv venting issue. if the turbine wheel was soaked in oil, then yes it would be the turbo.

 

Its pretty bad. The inside of my intake was pretty full of oil. and I didn't have the catch can connected to the intake so it couldn't be from that.

How else can I check if its the crankcase pressure? I'd much rather it be that than have to take the whole turbo off again.

 

def1: So, maybe I missed it but, did you check the shaft for axial play?

 

how is your catch can and pvc hooked up and routed?

 

^^^ What this guy said... so u know man the pcv on back of valve cover is only for low rpms, but when wot that valve closes, and the vapors from valve cover go through the fitting by cam sensor into the intake, so unless your running a breather filter or catch can to catch those vapors, those will eventually gunk up your intake pipe if your just running the stock hose recirculated. Mine got somewhat gunked up on a new aem intake within 10k. and im running a cusco catch can, but the catch can dont fill up though. So pull your licp off too cuz that more then likely will be filled with vapor crap, clean that out, if possible disconnect both icps off your front mount, and then spray into it with some water then use compressed air to blow out as much water as you can, your car will prolly run a lot better once you do that, cuz the heat the oil vapor creates in the intake pipe, unofficially will make your car run more ****ty.

 

what if mine pcv are just opened to atmosphere??

 

I have a line going from the nipple by the cam sensor to a fuel filter Im using as the catch can and routing the other end back to the intake to create vacuum. And there is absolutely no oil in the catch can at all. Its see through so I'd be able to see if any was getting in at all.

The PVC I still have hooked up to the intake manifold.

 

I dont have the PVC routed to a catch can, but the one by the cam sensor I do. Before I just had it connected to a breather filter so there wouldn't be anyway that oil would be going into the intake.

 

i would temporarily vent both lines to atmosphere and cap the nipple on the intake manifold and intake hose then try it again. its rare for the compressor side seal to leak.

 

Sounds like you need to switch to a turbo upgrade from someone other then fp....

 

Have you actually tried the vents yet? It'll only take a half hour or so to check. I really think that's your problem and if it is you may have bigger issues than just a turbo. Unplug the PVC hose from the manifold and plug the nipple on the intake then vent the valve cover hose to the atmosphere, again capping off the nipple on the intake. At the very least it will answer one question and give you a path to follow instead of going blindly through. I also HIGHLY recommend doing a compression test. Again, it's very simple to do and inexpensive for a tester. If you can change spark plugs, you can do a test. Pull the plugs, unplug the cam angle sensor, screw the compression tester in and crank the engine 6-7 times for each cylinder.

 

by vent to atmosphere do you mean just plug the lines to the PVC and cam sensor side and leave them not connected to anything?