yeah back when i built my block i cleaned and bled the lifters. i to bought the lifter removal tool and thats what ill b using. my new cams and springs were installed by a cbrd and i know they bled them. with the s2's i expected some valvetrain noise but since it has gotten louder i think the lifters r giving up.

if i get new ones ill prolly go with the toplines. let me know how the gsc no ticks work out though.

thanks again guys

 

Lifter removal tool? It's called fingers dude, I've never done it any other way on these cars.

 

Well since you upgraded to the beehives and cams it's logical that the next thing to go would be the stock lifters. The new springs are stiffer and the extra lift together would cause the lifters to give out sooner. The springs in the lifters are probably toast. Especially since you say the ticking is getting louder. Have you used a stethascope to listen and make sure the sound is in the head and not your bottom end?

 

Cmspaz if you can push your springs down with your fingers to get the rockers out then you should really think about buying some new springs.

 

Positive it's your lifters not injectors? I had some noisy injectors that sounded a lot like lifter tick.

 

i will find out today if its lifters. i dont think its injectors because i can hear them faintly but the ticking i can hear inside my cabin. it also sounds like its on the intake side of the head. if i drive my car for 20min or so the sound gets considerably quieter.

fingers crossed for weak lifters:/

 

If you can hear it inside the car it's almost definitely not injector clicking. What you're describing sounds pretty consistent with lifter tick. Good luck with getting them out without removing the cams. That sounds intensely frustrating.

 

ok as an update i took the valve cover off and checked to c if i could push any lifters down, none of them budged. so i took out my plugs so i could rotate the crank and my plugs looked perfect. so did the tops of the pistons from what i could c with my light.

i then took out the first to lifters and bled them. seemed normal, no debri on the rocker or any of the oil holes. when i went to put the first one back i saw some marks from the lifter removal tool on the top of my retainer. one had marks the other was fine. so i tried the third one and noticed it left marks on that retainer aswell. so i called it quits. the tool was also very hard to get into position as the rocker arms were so close to the sides of the head it seemed the tool was a little to thick.

on the last one i took out i saw something with the cam lobe that i didnt c on any of the other lobes. i took a picture to show and as i didnt c any wear marks it didnt look kosher to me. like a manufacturing deffect. maybe gsc can explain.

im waiting for the gasket sealant to set b4 i start her back up and do the rev procedure. im chalking it up to the big cams and stiff valvetrain.

 

here i marked the pics where my concerns are. as i said this is the only lobe that seems off but i dont c any wear marks on the cam journal, it is just very close to it.

 

^^^That is pretty damn close, I don't remember mine being like that. Also, I just replaced my lifters a couple months ago using the same tool you are/were probably using.

 

Do it the right way. Take the cams off. No tools needed and less of a chance to score the cam lobes. Only need fingers to lift them that way.

 

ok just ran the car a little, of course the sound is louder now with the bled lifters so ill have to drive it for awhile. reving helped but but its still there.

 

My GSC S2's have those same lines also like they are off center but it's more than one and I believe it's only either the intake or exhaust cams I forget which. I had made a thread about it with pics of mine and was basically told its considered normal for the most part. To me it looks like lazy machining and poor quality control but I dont know maybe theres a reason.

I had gotten that lifter tool and I can do it better and quicker with a big prybar, although its not as "safe" and one time I had shot a rocker out and was looking for it for like 45 minutes.

I'm still curious of that grey coating that's on the lobes where the rocker isnt rolling. I thought it was from my arp lube getting in the oil since it was right after I installed my head but doesn't seem like it. Do you have any idea what the grey build up is?

 

i think its just from not making contact with the rollers. the area making contact is getting polished and the non contact area isnt. r u running the gsc spring retainer setup aswell?

yesterday it was a warmer day out and on startup the sound was there but after 10min of driving i couldnt hear the sound anymore, even with no radio and the windows down. then the temps went down in the evening and when i drove the tick was there again.

the colder weather most play a roll in how loud the ticking can b on startup and how long it takes to go away.

im not worried about it after today and knowing that it goes away with warm weather. now imjust waiting for another 300 miles so i can c how much grab this new clutch has.

 

I'm not sure how i missed this when you posted the pic's on Monday but i apologize.

The closest i have ever measured an OEM cam to the number 5 cap is .015" with the cam pushed all the way in (making the most room at the number 5 cap for the last lobe). If you have a min of .015" there you won't have any problems what so ever as with heat the cam will grow in length. This is due to the thrust of the cam being set by the first cam cap/journal and the heat growth of the cam.

After looking at your pic's id almost think that you are inside that .015" number and you might be having a bit of contact when cold startup occurs between that lobe and the cam cap and until the heat grows the cam you get a slight ticking sound from the two metals rubbing. There are a couple of different ways to correct this. First thing first how about you measure with a feeler gauge and let's get a number. If you do find that it is tighter than .015" i'd suggest you remove that number 5 cap and check to see if you have wear or witness marks on the cap from the side of the lobe. If you do than you can do one of 2 things to correct it. 1 would be to take a file to the topside cam cap and clearance the little lip where it is rubbing (this is the quick fix). the second would be for me to send you a replacement cam which has been machined slightly different to set the number 5 lobe further back in the head. It's something i always leave up to the customer or shop when this question arises. Either will correct the ticking issue if that is where it is coming from.