By pulling the plugs first, inspecting them, getting a cheap set of resistor type NGK's and busting out the stock coil packs with some new boots and silicone.

 

i sold my stockers. i had my plugs out last week and they looked good, not wet or lean.

 

I'd get a set of cheap resistors and at least 4 new boots if you don't know what to look for on the non-CDI cop you have. It shouldn't run you more than 20-30 bucks and the boots should be available at an auto-parts store. You will have to search for the type of NGK resistor plug you need and then hunt them down at auto stores based on part number only. Gap them no higher and evenly at .024" each. .022 for 24ish PSI or higher.

Basically you would look for cracks in the boot, coil pack, whitish type residue around where a crack may be, cracked/broken ceramics on the plugs (sometime hard to see), spark plug gap failure, etc.

While they're out, get a borescope in the cylinder and inspect the piston tops and bowl if possible. I have had wire failure due to heat on my non-CDI COP so that is something to check too. Good luck.

 

Any update on this noise? Sounds like 2 diff noises, might be related but there is deff 2 diff noises. It does sound like a bottom end noise (the noise you hear more) and the noise you hear on accel and decel sounds more like top end noise but my noise is the second noise and im just hoping its not in the bottom end also, I replaced all my lower bearings maybe like 20k miles ago with race bearings and the noise just started after a 2nd gear pull and seems to go away under certain conditions but I'm thinking more and more its in the bottom end since I keep reading everybody else fixed there similiar noise with rod bearings or rebuild

 

yeah im in the same boat. when i first start it the sound is there and then as my car warms up it cant b heard at idle. then once i give it gas i can here the sound from 1500- 2600rpm depending on the outside temps. it seems the warmer it is outside the less this sound is heard. when i can hear it between those rpms its like the last video but when i lift i can hear rapid ticking. so idk im gonna take to a good evo shop and have them diagnose it because im stumped. my car drives great with no issues other than this noise and its been like this for a few months. doesnt get worse unless it gets colder out.

i have the oil filter from my last oil change when the sound was at its loudest and i let it drain into a bag, i poured the oil over a paper towel and let it drain to c any metal and found nothing. i tried using a can opener to open the filter but my can opener broke haha. anyone know a quick way to open the filter up without the tool?

 

Good Luck and I hope it's not super-major. Make sure to keep us updated with the shop's findings.

 

You can rent a tailpipe cutter from an auto parts store and open the filter that way. It's effectively a chain wrench with round blades on it.

Also, any non-normal engine noise that you can hear inside the car is probably bad. Hate to say it, but if you can distinguish it while driving down the road, my vote goes for rod knock... Especially since you've been finding debris in your head.

 

Well just got back from the mountains where we got dumped on. We got 4 feet of fresh snow in the 2 nights we were there. Got some video of the night driving. Also bent my right tie rod on a snow covered curb and after driving it back as I was pulling into my parking lot the steering rack snapped in half. The tie rods just slide right out. Luckily the Japanese yahoo. Auctions had a used rack for $35. Man I love how cheap Japanese used parts are here.

 

ok so im lookin at rod bearings just to plan for it. im gonna get the acl race bearings and have them coated. my question is should i buy the .25 since im replacing old ones or will the extra coating take up any extra space. btw i will b doing this buy dropping the oil pan unless theres something worse i once the pan is off.

 

If you spun a bearing, the crank must come out and get machined or replaced. You won't just be able to replace the bearings as the crankshaft rod journal will be out of round and scarred.

Once you get the pan off, all you have to do is try to move/jiggle(heh) each rod cap while they're still on in a back and forth motion (front of car to back of car). You'll know right away if there is ANY play in any of them. Spun rod bearings will "klink" back and forth with a decent amount of play.

If there is no play, you might as well inspect further by pulling the caps and replacing the bearings with STD size race bearings or whatever/your call/follow the manual and torque EVERYTHING to spec. Triple check if required. I am not sure is the stock EVO rod bolts are torque to yield, but make sure if they are to replace them. (don't go .25 as your crank actually must be machined for this).

EDIT: I forgot, since you have a built motor, "read" the back of the bearing that comes out as it will say STD or .25 or whatever as I am not sure of the history of your motor build or rebuild. If you have the B&B paperwork, it will tell you too.

 

ok i was able to cut the oil filter open today. this filter was only used for a few hundred miles after the noise became as loud as it is today. so it wasnt used for a full oil change. i found nothing, not even a spec. so thats good, but does the fact that is wasnt used for more than 300 miles make a difference?

 

cut into another filter today. amsoil filter which ive had on quite a few miles, put it on soon after the last one i cut open bit this one has almost 2k on it. didnt c anything funky. it was much harder to get this one open so there was some debri from cutting it open but even that was only a few flakes.

 

Okay, I had the can of marbles noise and it was getting louder. I dumped in a bottle of gum out fuel cleaner with the last fuel up and a quarter of a tank later the noise is gone.

 

sounds like your injectors were partially clogged and being overworked. do you use e85?

 

I tried fuel cleaner a few weeks ago but i wasnt able to go full throttle because of breaking in my clutch. Im running 1250cc pte's. I used gumout but never noticed a difference. Glad it worked for you.