Edit Added more information based on early feedback.

So I track my car at a few HPDEs each year. I'm still not using the car to its current full potential at its current power level (290whpish) so it makes no sense to get more power mods for now...unless something breaks. With the groups I run with, we average anywhere between 20 and 30mins per session. You can see my suspension, braking and tire setup in post #9. I don't plan to change that right now since it seems to be working fine for my current level.

I'd like to focus this post on keeping the current engine as safe and efficient as possible. I have most of the basic engine bolt ons (air intake, FMIC, LICP, UICP, 3" downpipe, HFC, walbro fuel pump, tune, COP, O2 housing, fuel rail, throttle body, exhaust etc.)

Stuff in my possession to be installed:

ARP Head Studs
GSC No Tick Lifters
JMF Catch Can
Kiggly HLA

Other parts I plan to order:

AMS Wet Sump Oil Pan
ARP Main Studs and HG (based on suggestion below)
STM Oil Cooler

What other parts would you guys suggest?

 

Zero reason to change the oil cooler unless your OEM one is damaged/removed

 

Unless you intend to road race, then the OEM cooler is fine.

 

I'd suggest main studs as well. Some people say you'll need to get the block align honed to install them, some don't. My two engines haven't had any problems with it. Also, if you're taking the oil pan off, new bearings might be worth a go.

As far as the oil cooler goes, The STM kit is definitely good quality, but so is the OEM one. If you aren't racing for more than about 15 minutes at a time, I wouldn't suggest changing it.

I've heard about some fitment problems with the AMS pan, though. Some people are saying the mounting surface isn't very flat and that it causes leaks. I don't have any personal experience with it, but buschur makes a modified pan that is supposed to work well, though it doesn't increase the size of the sump like the AMS pan does.

Finally, on head studs. Your current power level does not absolutely demand them. Obviously they're mechanically better than stock head bolts, but some people have experienced HG failures from installing head studs without using a new gasket. I'd say the risk factor is about the same as with main studs, but it's worth mentioning. In any case, make sure to install them one at a time, not pulling out all the bolts, then putting in the studs.

 

sounds like a good plan

 

The biggest thing you can do for yourself for HPDEs at this point is suspension work, brakes, and tires.

 

^ + 2000 Get yourself ohlins dfv and some star specs for starters and see the difference

 

Yeah I've heard about the issues with the AMS pan as well. The only reason I like it over Buschur's is the extra oil capacity. ER has done a few of them and most likely would be the ones to do this work on my car at that point in time.

I will add the main studs and yes I was planning to add a new OEM HG at the same time. On the oil cooler, we average anywhere from 20-35 min sessions with the groups that I go to the track out here with. I'll update that in the original post to help other folks

Thanks for the input.

 

Thanks for the input guys. My original post only contains the modifications done in the power/engine dept since that is what I am currently focusing on.

In terms of brakes/tires/suspension the car has:

Braking:

Ferodo DS2500 (front and rear)
OEM brake air guides
PowerSlot Slotted Rotors (front and rear and will switch to the GiroDisc Two Piece when these die)
Stainless steel brake lines
ATE Super blue brake fluid

Tires:

Bridgestone Re01-R and Toyo RA1 (depending on track conditions)

Suspension:

Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers
Cusco Lower Arm Bar Type I and Type II
Perrin PSRS Zero
Whiteline Rear Sway(22mm) and Works Rear Sway (24mm) (depending on conditions)
Whiteline Bump Steer Kit
Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit
Whiteline Steering precision


I drive the car to work so the suspension has to be fully street able. At the track haven't pushed past the limits of the PSS9. When I do then Ohlins maybe on the table. I'll get the star specs whenever either the Bridgestone or the RA1 die...got killer deals on both that I couldn't pass up.

Other than brake ducting I don't plan to change this setup until its really holding me back. I don't think I have reached that point yet since instructors are still pulling way more out of the car than I can currently.

Take a look from about 11:00 in this video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoTz4xwRMg8

My car is the last white Evo to go by with the instructor driving. The red evo is Geoff Clarke's car and I forgot the name of the white evo 9's driver. Both other cars are setup very well and with a competent driver (see not me) my car held its own. So I just want to keep it safe and reliable while I get my driving skills up

 

In your case I'd definitely recommend an aftermarket oil cooler. Somebody made one that mounts by the radiator to keep it away from hitting stuff if he goes off track (....again.. that was how he killed his stocker) that dropped his oil temps by about 15* and didn't affect coolant temps. Could be worth looking into. I think it was in the fabrication section on here.
I think the AMS pan reduces ground clearance by a bit, which could be disastrous if you ever have an off-track adventure. As long as you have a good cooler, the benefit of a bigger pan might never be seen. The buschur pan is significantly less expensive too.
Knowing that track driving like that generates a LOT of heat, have you considered doing brake ducting? I have absolutely no experience with it, but it sounds like a good idea to me.

 

Thanks for your input. Yep an aftermarket oil cooler is on the list in the original post...even though its not the first priority. Ground clearance on the pan I didn't think too much about so I will have to check out the difference. I've gone through the stock and 1 set of Cusco under arm bars hitting stuff on the road so definitely a concern.

Yep ducting is on the "to Do" list.

 

I can doublecheck but I dont believe the AMS reduces clearance that much, 3/8" maybe. The sump kicks forward for the additional capacity not down.

 

Ams says its 3/4" deeper, which could be significant. I'm terrified of ripping off my oil pan, so I mentioned it.

 

Thanks Aaron. I would appreciate it.

Yep good looking out

 

I have a AMS equipped car here so I will measure it as soon as I get it in the shop on a level floor.