get 1 heat range colder spark plugs...this might actually help you a little. you might have to lean out your lower rpm's fuel to stop the plugs from fouling (if they even do). give it a try.

 

Dont think plugs are the answer... the stock evos are already using itanium plugs.. i'm using the ralliart itanium ones...

Maybe the fuel pump could be the answer... the logic is there... the only problem is there are no bolt on fuel pumps for the evo yet... GTRs dont fit... external pumps are a bit risky...

I guess i have to wait for it then.. till then... no WOT for me

 

I believe some USDM Evos have good results with Walbro 255L/hr pump.

Hyper Rev Lancer magazine No. 17 tests the fuel pump made by Power Enterprise (210L/hr unit) with good results.

I myself am going for that PE unit soon, although I have nothing to share with you yet.

 

ever thought about this in regards to the knock sensor.
earlier dsm's 89-94 read 0-43 in knock counts, 95-99 you couldn't detect knock because of how it was set up, now i see people on here claiming to not pay attention to a 60 count of it.

ever thought that the afc can't read the knock correctly.
if you car truely hit 60 counts it would do some damage.

just food for thought

 

I am using the Walbro 255, got it at Lancerhsop.com for $105. Plugged right in.

 

I have a pretty lame question:

If my SAFC2 shows Knock readings of 6-9 , is that small amount normal? It sits at 0 when at idle, the > its gotten is 9.

 

Hey,

First, make sure you follow the directions to calibrate the knock readings and make sure the car is REALLY warmed up before doing so. If you're only getting 6-9 I would think that you have done this already.

Anyway, I think anything under 50 or so should be fine, as long as everything is hooked up right. I get little blips upto 30-40 or so, and it doesn't seem to be pulling timing or anything. I have hit >100 when settings were too agressive or too much boost, and there was a noticeable performance hit, perhaps timing retard.

Take care,

FB

 

solve your problems .. hook up a mike to the engine and listen !!!

The electronic detector is only as good as the pickup sensor .. and 4G63 engines are KNOWN to be noisy engines ..

Or hook up a datalogger .. if there's knock and you'd think the ecu retard .. the datalogger will show a reduction in ignition timing .. (which usually never happens because it's not knock !!)

average you see with the logger is around 8-10 degrees .. dropping to 5 if there's knock ..

Added : You'll get perfect EGT and AFR .. but pump limitation has no indications .. only way you know is have the fuel press gauge and watch the pressure !! .. I got good AFR all the way .. but my only indication was drop in pressure passing 4000rpms .. and true enough after the pump swap .. pressure maintained throughout .. and yes .. you still have to lean out the AFR with a failing pump !

 

...no body ever wanted to listen on the pump issue... after a little "blue in the face" I quit trying to get people to hook up a fuel pressure gage and watch the pressure drop...

 

This is exactly my experience with the AFCII and Buschur settings. I am running the BR MBC set so that it settles at 1.37 bar. When it is cold and heavy out it spikes to 1.4, otherwise 1.39. Turbo reaches full boost at 3200 rpm. The settings that came with the computer generally lean it out at idle and above 5000 rpm. Richens it around 4000 a little and leaves the rest alone. I love this setup. By the way I am running CA 91 mixed with Xylene to produce about 93 octane.

 

Well.. if they don't listen .. you'll see the inevitable post " I JUST BLEW MY ENGINE!!!" ..

I was a skeptic before .. worse still I had the 210LPH pump .. and it still wasn't enough.. only when I changed to the 255 pump that the press remained constant .. and that wasn't even on a built engine ..