I got a new Quartermaster Twin disc setup installed, and while i was at it, I got new suspension installed aswell.


and about 20 miles after the install, this is the noise I started hearing.


A few key points:

Noise goes away 90-100% if i accelerate.
Noise goes away if I press on brakes.
Less noise when driving straight


MORE noise with about 10-15 degree turn left or right
Turning 10-15 degrees Right is louder than left.
Noise at coasting or deceleration.
in gear or out of gear, no difference.



Things I have done since I drove it home,

untightened the caliper bolts, and re-torqued them
untightened the CV axle bolt and re-torqued them

Noticed a slight wear mark on mid-exhaust near driveshaft and moved muffler over farther away.



None of the above did any real noise difference to the clunking, still there.


Any tips or help from the Evo Pro's would be greatly appreciated.


And PS, the transmission shop that did the clutch job is 100 miles away, so going back for warranty work isnt available at this time.

videos being uploaded at this time, here is the link, give it 5 mins

(any loud squeaking you hear, is styrofoam in my backseat)
http://youtu.be/BXEoPFD11T0
http://youtu.be/grk7LeJfsm0
http://youtu.be/GUcsPfSANj8
and more links to follow

 

first thought, double check that all your lug nuts at tightened down. could be a wobbly wheel.

 

Check the sway bar end links.

Edit* never mind thats not end link noise. Get all the bellhousing and xfer case bolts checked

 

It sounds like something is hitting or vibrating from touching the engine or tranny. Make sure they didn't lose any tools or bolts down there. Check the clearance on your dp and exhaust again.

Does it happen in neutral if you rev the car?

Put the car on jack stands and drive it slowly and see what happens.

 

That sounds like the propshaft hitting something, but the only way it would do that on turns is if the whole front subframe is loose, and it shouldn't make any difference on braking or acceleration if that were the case.

I've heard the sound of loose lug nuts, and that ain't it. Something spinning is hitting something stationary. Don't drive it until you figure out what it is. Get it up on a lift and look very carefully. Something major is wrong, or you'll be able to see something that moves with the tie rods hitting an axle.

 

Been very busy to diagnose the car, just got it towed to my favourite shop. gonna find out in a few hours here if anyone cares lol.

 

Maybe bad carrier bearing for the driveshaft? It's pretty loud so you should be able to find it easy or see some damage its doing wherever it is hitting

 

Did you check the clearance of the downpipe? If its hitting the oil pan or tie bars.

Also make sure your cross member bar is bolted on correctly/tight. Double check the motor mounts are bolted on and not missing any bolts. Rear mount, front, side...

Do you have an aftermarket intake? Some intakes angle up pretty high and the filter hits the hood. Make sure yours isnt as well.

Also just to rule it out, double check the top bolts of the struts. Make sure they are tightened down.

 

check the exhaust abound the u-joints.

 

Shop called, and said the Front lug nuts were loose... and I didnt believe him because I already went to a shop near my home, and they removed the front wheels, and loosened and re-tightened the front brakes and front axles.... so obviously they removed the wheels and re-torqued them. So why would the clunking not be fixed by the first shop putting the wheels back on....

weird but Happy. Cheap fix.

 

not!!

 

Looks like they messed up your ACD pump too!

 

i didnt even notice that, lol

 

Depending on how far you drove it like that, I'd also pull off the wheel that was loose and examine the studs and the holes in the rim to make sure they aren't worn.

 

thanks, they mentioned the same thing... but said the lug nuts/bolt threads are fine. same with wheel holes.


but they noticed a list of things while they were under there, most seem like a result of poor labour in removing and replacing the struts and tranny.

- front brake lines can rub on wheels at full turn
- downpipe rests on tranny cross member
- a turbo oil line rests on downpipe
- downpipe is touching starter + bolt, but with a piece of rubber pinched inbetween
- oil pan leaking ( not install related )
- transmission inspection hole not re-sealed



So getting all that sorted out before I pick it up. I guess the loose wheel saved my life, cause if it didnt wobble, I might not have gotten this work checked out, and my break lines would have eventually worn through....

reality check.