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Ya it would seem that the map and ams oil cooler kit is very very similar. Ams just has a higher price tag. I think for the weekend racer and weekly driver type of guy it would be the best bang for you buck to go with the map oil cooler kit. Not the ams and map kits have great reviews. So either way sounds good. Most people don't want to have to make their own kit and measure things.
I've got a MAP kit on my VII. The engine is making around 500hp from a HKS GTII 7460R Turbo with supporting mods (cams, 3,25" turbo back, intake, HUGE fmic, etc).
Did some road racing laps and the temperature got as high as it would get with a stock oil cooler, aroung 115 celsius. Outside temp was 24 celsius and I'm using Motul synthetic 5W40 engine oil.
I've got a MAP kit on my VII. The engine is making around 500hp from a HKS GTII 7460R Turbo with supporting mods (cams, 3,25" turbo back, intake, HUGE fmic, etc).
Did some road racing laps and the temperature got as high as it would get with a stock oil cooler, aroung 115 celsius. Outside temp was 24 celsius and I'm using Motul synthetic 5W40 engine oil.
bumping this again from the dead.
what's the best bolt-on no fab oil cooler right now?
guy above said the map one didn't do anything. just doing some future road racing prep here...
what's the best bolt-on no fab oil cooler right now?
guy above said the map one didn't do anything. just doing some future road racing prep here...
MAP uses Setrab which is a known entity in this space...some of the other bolt on options didn't specify who made their core. I also have this, but put it on years ago before I was tracking regularly so don't have a good before/after. The issue is though that depending on total setup the coolers can't totally save the car....i.e in the quote above if that's 500WHP with an HKS turbo in 24C that's an expected result. You can look into getting the better inlet vent, outlet vent (like the VI vent on mine) or the fan that other folks are running as well.
MAP uses Setrab which is a known entity in this space...some of the other bolt on options didn't specify who made their core. I also have this, but put it on years ago before I was tracking regularly so don't have a good before/after. The issue is though that depending on total setup the coolers can't totally save the car....i.e in the quote above if that's 500WHP with an HKS turbo in 24C that's an expected result. You can look into getting the better inlet vent, outlet vent (like the VI vent on mine) or the fan that other folks are running as well.
nah my car is way, way more on the mild side than wild. just looking for added lower temps overall
I have a large Setrab cooler with a Spal 6.5" puller fan hooked up. Mounted the switch in the glove box. Works well (fan might be overkill but whatever).
What about a b&m oil cooler.I had one mounted up on my old evo.idk about lower temps,never had a gauge.They are very well made.They are also pretty cheap in price
are the map setrab oil cooler/oil coolers in general directional? i.e., other than the lines lining up correctly to the sandwich plate, do the oil coolers have to be lined up a certain way?
mishimoto shows the direction by stamping their "M" on the front of the oil cooler, but for the setrab it's not clear which side (left or right) should be on the top.
Bumping a old thread, but is there a dramatic difference between the MAP Setrab and STM B&M Race Cooler Kits to justify the extra $120 over the MAP Kit ($350 vs $470 after tax)?
MAP Setrab 50-625-7612: 11.25 x 7.5 x 1.875in Thick and 33,100-46,000 BTU range according to Setrab
B&M STM Race 70266: 11 x 8 x 1.5in and 20,500 BTU Rating according to B&M.
So the B&M is a little smaller, but not by a whole lot. I'm just having trouble figuring out if the extra BTU rating on the Setrab would have any measurable impact on cooling given how small the stock units are on these cars.
I could also just use a Derale or Koyo 25 Row Cooler that's rated at 46,000 BTU and has identical dimensions to the Setrab and make my own for $200 less than the MAP kit, using the same -8AN line as both kits (would -10AN work better considering the oil filter housing is M18x1.5?) Would just have to make brackets myself which does not look impossible, might look uglier than the MAP ones but they'll be out of sight.
Why are you upgrading from the stock one? More cooling or cost?
I can't comment on how those two coolers compare however If you are doing Auto X or track days an upgraded cooler is nice. Or aluminum rods on a street car.
On a street car the OEM unit works well. Too big of a cooler in the fall isn't ideal. I'm running a racefab pan and a stock cooler, I needed to block off the cooler in the winter months in Florida so that the oil gets up to 160*.
Why are you upgrading from the stock one? More cooling or cost?
I can't comment on how those two coolers compare however If you are doing Auto X or track days an upgraded cooler is nice. Or aluminum rods on a street car.
On a street car the OEM unit works well. Too big of a cooler in the fall isn't ideal. I'm running a racefab pan and a stock cooler, I needed to block off the cooler in the winter months in Florida so that the oil gets up to 160*.
Deleted after old one was on a motor that spun a bearing. I let my motor break in for 6-800 miles with just the delete plugs so whatever metal the motor shed wasn't trapped by the presence of a oil cooler. I am going to do a few track events around 400-450whp so I'd just like to keep the car from blowing up, but I'm realistic and acknowledge most of the miles on the car will be on the street.
And yeah that's a good observation, otherwise you can hurt the car just doing street pulls from not getting the motor oil up to temp. I have the Moroso pan and a MTX-D temp gauge with the sender into the oil drain plug of the pan and I've never gotten the oil past the first 5 green hash marks (definitely below 200F since it goes "yellow" at 220F, and probably closer to 150-180F most of the time).
Mishimoto posted this "tech report" which could be something to go after when choosing the 25-Row style coolers. I have a hard time believing the oil came to nearly what was probably ambient temperature after the oil cooler though (100 from stock vs 88-90F). IIRC The Evo's oil cooler thermostat opens at 185F. They calculated "10% more efficient" than OEM which doesn't sound like enough of a upgrade considering its 25 Rows vs 11-13 Rows on the stock one that's half the size, which makes me think the $120 B&M Race cooler isn't as bad as you would think and after a certain size (probably bigger than stock) you run into decreasing marginal gains that could also lead to the side effect of overcooling
Apparently you can buy just the bracket for the B&M STM coolers for $50 which is why they're a option. Just depends if I'm more comfortable with a single bolt into the frame rail holding my oil cooler vs making brackets out of perforated flat bar stock from Home Depot and using the stock brackets. I'll probably do the latter honestly. I'm not comfortable using a single M8 bolt into the frame rail holding my oil cooler in lol
The only oil cooler worth getting is the MAP setrab kit because the setrab is the best cooler available. If your oil doesn't get to temp on the street, block off the oil cooler duct.
Bumping a old thread, but is there a dramatic difference between the MAP Setrab and STM B&M Race Cooler Kits to justify the extra $120 over the MAP Kit ($350 vs $470 after tax)?
MAP Setrab 50-625-7612: 11.25 x 7.5 x 1.875in Thick and 33,100-46,000 BTU range according to Setrab
B&M STM Race 70266: 11 x 8 x 1.5in and 20,500 BTU Rating according to B&M.
So the B&M is a little smaller, but not by a whole lot. I'm just having trouble figuring out if the extra BTU rating on the Setrab would have any measurable impact on cooling given how small the stock units are on these cars.
I could also just use a Derale or Koyo 25 Row Cooler that's rated at 46,000 BTU and has identical dimensions to the Setrab and make my own for $200 less than the MAP kit, using the same -8AN line as both kits (would -10AN work better considering the oil filter housing is M18x1.5?) Would just have to make brackets myself which does not look impossible, might look uglier than the MAP ones but they'll be out of sight.
I'm about to install the slightly larger Derale 53408 cooler, but probably should have opted for the one you chose since it will take some work to package and then get it properly ducted. While factory fittings are M18 the actual hard lines on the factory hoses are still just -8 so I kept everything -8 as well vs -10.
Oct 21, 2013, 11:38 AM
