i bought a summit racing one, heard they're ok. so no ones had loose rod bolts from the box?

 

Summit, Jegs, ARP, cant go wrong with either.. as long as the gauge has a stiff spring in it you're fine & that you preload the gauge up quite a bit. they are all designed to rest good on the dimples on the bolts.

 

huh? i'm not expecting manley to torque my rods for me, of course I checked clearances etc. what i'm saying is that they're meant to be torqued from factory just so they can hone the big end right??
either way it's not right because even the paper that comes with it says they have been pre torqued to 60ftlb from factory. it's easy to throw the blame on the user, just wait till you finish the engine you're building when you know you measured everything and it was all correct, then it blows up with no sign and tell me how you feel when the internets starts pointing fingers at you lol.

I will admit the only thing I did wrong was trust that torque specs manley give would get you in the ball park for stretch, there are people who say using the torque values gets them within .005 of stretch when measuring. But like i said before, the rod bolts didn't back out so it didn't die from under stretch, and I really doubt I went past the elastic modulus of the bolt, if it did then the was a flaw in the bolt.

 

I cant 100% recall, but i think there was some sort of inspection sheet that came in the manley rods package we got indicating each one was checked. did you get anything like that?

was their lube on the loose bolts? if so id say that would be a good sign/way to tell it was checked..

atleast now you're locked & loaded with new information and your next build should last much much longer.

 

all my other builds are running fine lol. just my luck my own engine blows. there was no inspection sheet with mine. there was no lube on the bolts either, not sure why but manley uses arp lube with turbo tuffs and 30 weight oil with h beams...

 

my turbo tuffs came with a tube of anti seize. im going to try different routes with mine. either the stretch gauge with indicator or measuring with my 1"-2" micrometer. whichever is more repeatable is the one ill use.

 

stretch gauge with a good dial indicator is the best route.

you cant use a micrometer accurately.. it wont fit in the machined dimples on the rod bolt that are the only way to truely measure it accurately.

 

well now atleast you'll be an even better engine builder if youre gonna use stretch now

live and learn i guess.. can never catch breaks .. always has to resort to loss of income.

 

i dont remember if arp machines the tops and bottoms, either way i obviously wont do something im not 100% sure about. im obsessive compulsive and if i have any doubt about anything it will keep me up at night and ill tear it back apart to double check.

 

sounds like me lol.. we torture ourselves over nothing sometimes huh? lol.

 

yeah, but the peace of mine keeps me from going insane. i should probably be medicated.

 

same here. last time i changed a waterpump on my car i forgot to double check the torque on the tensioner pulley for the timing belt (making the wrench click twice), and just because i didnt confirm it i went down 1 hr later and ripped the entire car apart again just to redo it and have the wrench click twice on that bolt LOL.

 

yep thats me. i work on industrial equipment for a living and my bosses love me, but i drive my coworkers and everyone else insane. i recently went ballistic on a service manager when i bought the girlfriends car in for an alignment. they got it "in spec" but the left rear and right rear camber were .5* different. i lectured them about taking pride in their work and stuff.

 

sorry to be slightly off topic here but is there a rating to arp2000 rod bolts? If correctly stretched and torqued where are its limits? In the process of odering from map and they seem to think that my rods will fail before the arp2000 rod bolts (i ordered manley I-beams)

 

It's probably not off topic as that's where the topic is going I'm sure.....it's a good question...I'd say a lot of power and torque I had scat rods with arp2000s and held up fine, as a matter of fact everything around the crank,rods and pistons couldn't take the boost and power it had......did a headgasket then noticed that the cyl wall was cracked......I really doubt they're hit and miss, I'd. Have to say they have to be installed and stretched properly, end of story. I'd have to ask another question as to whether the motor has had a beating in another way? Ie. a short period of detonation? Maybe it fatigued the rods/rod bolts and then combined with more torque down the track just gave up?....just suggesting