My clutch(ACT Xtreme Street disc), short shifter w/extender and blox knob combo.
May 22, 2012, 11:21 AM
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My clutch(ACT Xtreme Street disc), short shifter w/extender and blox knob combo.
Hi guys,
I'm posting this because I did a ton of research before installing these items and I could never find the answer to all my questions.
So, like the title says, that's the setup I have on my car right now. To this day I can finally say that this is the happiest I have ever been with my transmission.
ACT clutch:
Recently I took my car to the shop to replace the dead ACT 6 puck with a street disc. After reading at TRE's website that a stock transmission should not have a clutch rated at more than 535tq I decided to use the street disc with the extreme pressure plate which is rated at 565tq. I know that a lot of people are using more aggressive clutches in stock transmissions, but snice this is my DD/autoX/Fun car I won't take any chances with it. Also, I'm not a PRO driver so I will probably make a few mistakes here and there while shifting.
I have heard a lot of people say that they are getting lockout at more than 7,500 RPM with the ACT clutches. At first I was getting it too, but after doing research on how to shift and why was this happening I found the solution...
I was not driving like I should. My car is a stock turbo car, which makes quite a lot of power in the mid range. I DO NOT need to rev it that high. I started shifting at 6,500-7,000RPM from 1-4th and once in 4th I would let it rev up to 7,500+ which at that point in a 1/4 mile race you won't need to shift in a stock turbo car.
When I started doing this I didn't get locked out and I was going faster because I was shifting using the correct power curve instead of wanting to shift 7,500+ when the power of the turbo is already going down.
In conclusion, if you are having this problem with the ACT on a stock turbo... just shift at 6,500 and believe me you won't get locked out and you will be faster.
Another key point is to adjust the clutch pedal for maximum travel, at first my car felt notchy and stiff to get into gear. I adjusted the clutch pedal and tested the shifting until I felt the clutch was releasing properly. YES it felt really long, but I prefer this to a notchy, hard to get transmission which you are actually HURTING. A few days later and the clutch pedal felt normal to me because I got used to it!
SHIFTER:
A couple of months ago I changed my stock shifter to an ebay short shifter. Let me tell you, this shifter is GREAT. It's top quality, made out of steel and it has all the parts needed including the shifter BASE bushings for just under $50 shipped. IT's A BARGAIN. At first I had it set up to decrease the shift travel to 50% the stock travel. This felt HORRIBLE to me. While it was really tight, it was EXTREMELY difficult to get into gear. Which to me it ment MORE STRESS on the synchros. Then I decided to use the other setting, which was 35% less than stock and this one felt awesome. It's more tight, short and precise than stock, but you don't feel like hurting the transmission or have trouble getting into gear.
KNOB:
Ok, I have tried 4 different knobs including the stock one. The Blox counter weight, AMS, Ralliart bulb and the stock... Out of the 4, the Blox and AMS are superior IMO. For a stock shifter you can try either of them and see which one you like more. However, with the short shifter I prefer the Blox. It's heavy and not so big. It feels good in the hand and the shifts feel way better. It's like the knob helps the transmission feel more expensive. With the other knobs the transmission felt CHEAP, weak and you could actually feel all the notchyness.
3.75 inch EXTENDER:
Ok so this was my last addition to the combo. Once I had the short shifter at 35%, the Blox 490 weighted knob and adjusted the clutch pedal, the transmission felt A LOT better. However, still wanted to baby it as much as I could and make the shifting effortless so I could keep my transmission healthy.
I remember that when I first added the AMS knob to my stock shifter, it felt better because the added leverage made the shifts go in better. Since I have new synchros, they are still bedding in and sometimes I felt a little resistance going into gear. Therefore I decided to add the shifter extender. And let me tell you, it feels awesome. The shifter goes into gear EFFORTLESSLY and the travel is not so long at all. As a matter of fact, It feels quite the same to me. It does feel a bit more loose, but I actually prefer the shift like butter feeling knowing that my synchros are thanking me for it.
When I installed it I decided to try all the knobs once again and this only assured me that the BLOX was the way to go. If it felt better than the others without the extender, it felt WAY better with the extender. This actually surprised me since I had the AMS and BLOX rated about the same.
Overall, I have never been happier with my transmission. So if there are more people out there with questions about these items I hope I have been helpful and if you still have other questions, just ask!
Here is a picture of the shifter:
I'm posting this because I did a ton of research before installing these items and I could never find the answer to all my questions.
So, like the title says, that's the setup I have on my car right now. To this day I can finally say that this is the happiest I have ever been with my transmission.
ACT clutch:
Recently I took my car to the shop to replace the dead ACT 6 puck with a street disc. After reading at TRE's website that a stock transmission should not have a clutch rated at more than 535tq I decided to use the street disc with the extreme pressure plate which is rated at 565tq. I know that a lot of people are using more aggressive clutches in stock transmissions, but snice this is my DD/autoX/Fun car I won't take any chances with it. Also, I'm not a PRO driver so I will probably make a few mistakes here and there while shifting.
I have heard a lot of people say that they are getting lockout at more than 7,500 RPM with the ACT clutches. At first I was getting it too, but after doing research on how to shift and why was this happening I found the solution...
I was not driving like I should. My car is a stock turbo car, which makes quite a lot of power in the mid range. I DO NOT need to rev it that high. I started shifting at 6,500-7,000RPM from 1-4th and once in 4th I would let it rev up to 7,500+ which at that point in a 1/4 mile race you won't need to shift in a stock turbo car.
When I started doing this I didn't get locked out and I was going faster because I was shifting using the correct power curve instead of wanting to shift 7,500+ when the power of the turbo is already going down.
In conclusion, if you are having this problem with the ACT on a stock turbo... just shift at 6,500 and believe me you won't get locked out and you will be faster.
Another key point is to adjust the clutch pedal for maximum travel, at first my car felt notchy and stiff to get into gear. I adjusted the clutch pedal and tested the shifting until I felt the clutch was releasing properly. YES it felt really long, but I prefer this to a notchy, hard to get transmission which you are actually HURTING. A few days later and the clutch pedal felt normal to me because I got used to it!
SHIFTER:
A couple of months ago I changed my stock shifter to an ebay short shifter. Let me tell you, this shifter is GREAT. It's top quality, made out of steel and it has all the parts needed including the shifter BASE bushings for just under $50 shipped. IT's A BARGAIN. At first I had it set up to decrease the shift travel to 50% the stock travel. This felt HORRIBLE to me. While it was really tight, it was EXTREMELY difficult to get into gear. Which to me it ment MORE STRESS on the synchros. Then I decided to use the other setting, which was 35% less than stock and this one felt awesome. It's more tight, short and precise than stock, but you don't feel like hurting the transmission or have trouble getting into gear.
KNOB:
Ok, I have tried 4 different knobs including the stock one. The Blox counter weight, AMS, Ralliart bulb and the stock... Out of the 4, the Blox and AMS are superior IMO. For a stock shifter you can try either of them and see which one you like more. However, with the short shifter I prefer the Blox. It's heavy and not so big. It feels good in the hand and the shifts feel way better. It's like the knob helps the transmission feel more expensive. With the other knobs the transmission felt CHEAP, weak and you could actually feel all the notchyness.
3.75 inch EXTENDER:
Ok so this was my last addition to the combo. Once I had the short shifter at 35%, the Blox 490 weighted knob and adjusted the clutch pedal, the transmission felt A LOT better. However, still wanted to baby it as much as I could and make the shifting effortless so I could keep my transmission healthy.
I remember that when I first added the AMS knob to my stock shifter, it felt better because the added leverage made the shifts go in better. Since I have new synchros, they are still bedding in and sometimes I felt a little resistance going into gear. Therefore I decided to add the shifter extender. And let me tell you, it feels awesome. The shifter goes into gear EFFORTLESSLY and the travel is not so long at all. As a matter of fact, It feels quite the same to me. It does feel a bit more loose, but I actually prefer the shift like butter feeling knowing that my synchros are thanking me for it.
When I installed it I decided to try all the knobs once again and this only assured me that the BLOX was the way to go. If it felt better than the others without the extender, it felt WAY better with the extender. This actually surprised me since I had the AMS and BLOX rated about the same.
Overall, I have never been happier with my transmission. So if there are more people out there with questions about these items I hope I have been helpful and if you still have other questions, just ask!
Here is a picture of the shifter:
Last edited by Don Q; May 22, 2012 at 11:26 AM.
May 22, 2012, 05:43 PM
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yes you can just shift below the point of lockout, but the point that it locks out at all shouldn't be happening. It would just upset me personally that the clutch doesnt function exactly like its supposed to. It seems to be the only clutch that causes lockout issues from what i read, not sure why it happens with act clutches only
May 22, 2012, 06:55 PM
#4
yes you can just shift below the point of lockout, but the point that it locks out at all shouldn't be happening. It would just upset me personally that the clutch doesnt function exactly like its supposed to. It seems to be the only clutch that causes lockout issues from what i read, not sure why it happens with act clutches only
May 22, 2012, 08:13 PM
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yes you can just shift below the point of lockout, but the point that it locks out at all shouldn't be happening. It would just upset me personally that the clutch doesnt function exactly like its supposed to. It seems to be the only clutch that causes lockout issues from what i read, not sure why it happens with act clutches only
May 22, 2012, 08:15 PM
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May 23, 2012, 04:12 AM
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I was using MB7 HDR6 and after 2k miles and about 10 launches ( on FpBlack setuo) the disc started cracking nothing about shifting evrth is ok I will post picture later. now I am going to install a new disk but I bought 6puck sprung
I can say clutch is good for money spent but I dont understand why disc is cracking
thanks for a nice review
I can say clutch is good for money spent but I dont understand why disc is cracking
thanks for a nice review
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May 29, 2012, 05:20 PM
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http://www.twmperformance.com/shifte...ders/index.htm
What's the best quality extender? Don't want to over pay if I don't have to. You get blox knob on eBay?
Btw my exedy stg 2 locked out bad above 7k, adjusted the pedal, tq solution front engine mount and under good bushings and it's fine now.
What's the best quality extender? Don't want to over pay if I don't have to. You get blox knob on eBay?
Btw my exedy stg 2 locked out bad above 7k, adjusted the pedal, tq solution front engine mount and under good bushings and it's fine now.
May 29, 2012, 06:51 PM
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its funny because i have used ACT clutches twice and never had issues shifting at 8000rpm... i really like these clutches especially if you want to stay with a single disc...
I really like the extension man! can you take a photo from the side?
I really like the extension man! can you take a photo from the side?
May 29, 2012, 07:17 PM
#14
I use the 6-puck ACT and have no issues shifting at 8k rpm. I read many posts and followed the recommended install tips...
- completely clean inside of bellhousing
- clean tranny splines with a ss wire brush & brake cleaner
- lightly coat the splines with lithium grease
- slide clutch disc over splines to ensure easy movement
- remove excess grease
Make sure you properly bleed the line and then adjust the clutch accordingly. My stock tranny shifts like butter at 8k rpm.
May 29, 2012, 07:58 PM
#15
I have installed many ACT clutches on my customer's cars and my own,and i've found that if you make the proper adjustments and install it properly like the OP stated you should have no problems with lockout,i have also tuned many other cars locally with ACT clutches with no issues at high rpms,my ACT 6puck hd disc performs flawlessly on the street,with no issues.