Like I said above - IF I were YOu - I would get the 660 inejctors in - - save up for the Buschur fmic and then we can tune you to a save 340 whp on pump gas

Without the fmic and injectors the most we have seen is 315 - 320 - NOT much more than you have now

 

I did not get a PM from you, Also if you car was out of time that maybe a big deal. Also from what I have heard the cam gears help a lot.

 

Are you running out of fuel on your tune? also you think the FMIC is going to give you that much power? I know with presure loss and all it sounds like it would make the car a little more laggy and the stock FMIC seems fine hell the thing is HUGE and the size of most cars once they upgrade it. Al when you tune do you crank up the timing? I am just asking because it seems you run out of fuel quick and the only reason for that is for timing.

 

I drove his car myself on the low boost and it was not out of time on the cam timing

I do not recomend the cams gears as adjusting the cam timing is just moving the power band up or down and any gains up top come at the expense of spool up and visa versa

I am NOT interested in peak dyno numbers - just the area under the curve

If you care to notice Buschur does not have cam gears in its staged set ups - i wonder why ?

 

Ya but as you know pulling -3 to -5 will help the top end a lot form say 4500-7500 where if you are getting on it the car needs the power up top.

 

I rather keep the cam timing at zero - keep the mega spool up fully in tact an tune in the power on top

I will get this guy running strong - he just didn;t have a boost controller the last time - we will get him in shape

 

Sounds good Al.

 

This is puzzling.

Do you have any graphs from pruvens dyno of Visnhu Stage 1+ (tbe, xede, camgear, cams) that are supposed 350 WHP? This would be pleasant to see, as Al claims that without the FMIC or injectors that they could not make over 320 WHP. It would be in the best interest of the evo community for these confiscatory statements to be sorted out.

Al, whats the max you ever turned for tbe, xede, camgears, cams? This would also be interesting…

 

i dont think this is a tunning issue, i think that we need an hour at the dyno with Al to tune in corectly with the boost controller, HUSCROFT6 is still running rich and needs his feul too be leaned out a bit...if we got him about 15-20 more i think thats a good number for modds.......318whp and im sure that would also raise his torque level from 307 to about 325.........Al deffinately knows what hes doing its not a matter of that , its tunning all parts at the same day as his car sits know...i dont see a problem at all with his setup, especially when he hit a 12.9 when he only had 261 whp!!! know hes about 45 more whp and almost 55 torque....who cares about every dyno number, if the car delivers it delivers, if you run a mid to low 12 with that setup your good to go!!!! Al.....come to Xotic Motorsports......i sent you an email, an aweseom dyno for a dynoday and we got about 15 cars comming, lets do it in the begining of March, im good freinds with the owner and he said he loved the idea and advertising.....prove us you can make 320 on his setup!! lol thanks!

 

Are we talking about uncorrected numbers or corrected numbers? Uncorrected, in winter, are going to yield bigger numbers than uncorrected in moderate conditions.

I've never dyno'd an evo with cams at Pruven. Most of the car I've tested there last year have been regular Stage 1s (XEDE, exhaust, cam gears). They have all made 310-320whp with cats in 60-70deg conditions. In winter temps, such a car should have no problem putting down 320-330whp.

The last Stage 1+ (exhaust, xede, cams, cam gears, fuel pump) car we dyno'd on race gas, with a test pipe, put down 360whp on an AWD Dynojet which seems to be close to the limit of the factory turbo. Especially one pushing through the factory IC. This particular car wasn't at Pruven, however, so it's probably not a good idea to compare the numbers to closely. It was also tested in 75deg weather so the numbers will be lower that what the east coasters should be getting in their winter wonderland right around now

regards,
shiv

 

I am sorry I though the dyno day he had a 1+ car and I guess he did not. Well he made 320whp without cams and I would say cams are worth 30ish WHP from what he has been getting everywhere else. Still if he is making the same power without the cams or a intake or any of that other stuff it has to be a better tune because all the parts are the same.

 

If you don't care about dyno numbers why's it on the bottom of your sig?

 

Nice 360 on race duel with a cat delete pipe - sounds to me that must be your SCC car in LA at K & N ??? Spilling some beans ?

Anyway - I have some what i like to call "fantasy dyno" race fuel results also - I call them "fantsasy dyno" becuase 99.9999 % of my clinets don't run around on race fuel - they use street fuel so its kind of silly to talk C-16 leaded race gas numbers
for most of the end users who have no access or desire to run race fuel these numbers are of little or no relevance.

I prefer to stick with pump gas comparisons

But - in an effort to be sporting - here are some race gas numbers - 370 whp and 370 ft lbs - SAE corrected - not bad eh? Its a Buschur Flash stage 4 on race fuel - -

http://www.buschurracing.com/EVO8_ST...72_BRFLASH.jpg

BTW the Stage 3 Buschur flash reflash made almost 350 whp SAE corrected on the same day same dyno with 94 octane pump fuel

http://www.buschurracing.com/EVO8_STG3_81_BRFLASH.jpg

To me thats a more interesting dyno sheet for a dialy driver as it represents real street performance on pump gas

Once again - I think its silly to compare dyno numbers and make these stupid comparisons

NO one is going to feel 5 or 10 whp one way or the other and it won;t really matter in the long run

What is more important to me is how the curves look - how much power is under the curve and WHAT methods and parts are used to get the power

Please note that ALL my numers are obtained with FULL facory unatenuated knock sesnor protection 100% in full force and effect and that all my numbers are repeatable without the car pulling ecu ign timing after driving it around on the road - in other words there is no knock activity and the tunes hold - this is far more important to me than a peak number

Also - I would not support cutting the knock signal under any circumstances - its just way too valuable a protection device to disable it in any fashion

 

lolrof, on the same 2 wheel dyno right Al? Why don't you throw that car on a 4 wheel dyno and see what happens? I bet you lose about 20-30 whp. Also those charts look VERY choppy with smoothing set to 5, what's it look like set to 1 where the software does not cover up all the problems, put it to 1 and let's see the raw chart.