I have already gone through 2 motors, bought one more recently from a shop in Illinois and they sent me a complete longblock with 25 - 100 compression across the board. Pretty much getting tired of this and need something new. I am tempted to build a 2.4 and buy this block from AWD MS.

Im a newb, I need suggestions on how costly and time consuming this process is. I have done some research on this block but haven't seen how much this runs? Also if I can re use my evo 8 head, would that work on this block? My goal is to build a reliable block, close to stock, just mild upgrades. I don't drag or auto cross.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-L...ab95b6&vxp=mtr

 

if your main goals are " reliable block, close to stock, just mild upgrades", i'd stick with a 4G63. why add any confusion to things, especially if you consider yourself a noob. There isn't a whole lot to deal with once it's all done, but you can't just go to the store and buy a waterpump for your car anymore.

Also, your head will work, but it needs modified for best results, and can't go back on a 4G63 after that.

I say K.I.S.S. is a good plan. And sorry about the crap luck on past motors.

 

Thanks for the advice. Looking to stick with the 4g63 but I can't keep going through these motors especially with the core charge every time!

 

This may be a silly question, but why do u keep going through motors?

 

Good question. Aggressive tunes I believe, cracks and holes in blocks are the result.

 

Who is your engine builder and who is your tuner?

 

You haven't elaborated on your experiences in sufficient detail to provide in depth comments, but at the very least, a complete reevaluation of your previous methodology is long past due.

 

I'm going with the 42R in your name might be part of your combo?

 

just throwin this out..you should be changing the oil cooler and lines with the motors..I know people were having issues with motors because they were not replacing this. Just throwin this out there.

 

I see you live in CA. I'm from the bay area in nor cal and go to Fftec in Hayward for everything I need. I ended up buying my short block from MAPerformance and Fftec put everything else together after deeming my headand other parts reusable.
I blew up my stock block and went with a 2.4 swap. Not true about having to modify the head (I didn't) to get it to work. True about the water pump tho. Driving it on the street is a world of difference when comparing to the 2.0. Its got more low end for around town driving. You can also make it just as reliable or maybe even better.
Another reason why I went with a 4g64 is because the core charge is cheaper.
Do what I did, go to a shop whose got plenty of experience with Evos and just have them build what you want. Do it once, do it right.
My car is currently being built at Fftec because I told them I want to run 9's, so they're working on that for me
PM me if you have any questions about my setup since you may be local to me. Good luck on your future build.

-Jesse

 

2.4 has the advantage of no core charge from some vendors. If you have a good core, you have more options. Seems like things aren't going ur way. Either ur getting in over ur head trying to do the labor yourself, or ur having someone incompetent perform labor or tuning. There's both SoCal and NorCal evo forums so you'll be able to find a decent shop by reading on there. Don't settle for anything other than an evo specific shop. It might be an inconvenience but English racing is on the west coast (but up in Wash). They are arguably one of the best evo shops in the country. period. They can build a 2.4 with their eyes closed. Its the type of place where theres no bull****...drop off ur brokedown heap, get a top notch vehicle back. Good luck

 

Elaborating on my "no core charge" statement above. Its just that the 2.4 doesn't use a 63 block so having a good core isn't necessary. You'll still pay around the same for either built block, you just don't physically need a core in most cases...

 

If you have gone through multiple motors then the problem causing the motors to fail needs to be addressed before you get another motor, regardless of which block you intend to go with. You should NOT be on your 4th motor with this platform unless someone involved is doing something massively wrong. If you were sent a motor with bad compression before you touched it, thats one thing, but the previous two motors having big holes in the block indicate serious tune problems. Identify your problems before you dive face first into yet another blown motor.

 

x100

 

I don't want to give that information out just yet. All I can say is that I was on E 85 both times, stock block, had cams and some port work done, stock turbo, Speed Density, boost around 30 psi.

Tuner said that is average, I took his word twice.