Just bought my 2nd EVO, a MAP 2.4 IX RS and just Mustang Dynoed 532whp & 500tq on EF3 turbo & E-85 at 27psi. Tuner cautioned me all turbos in stock size housing are prone to melting at these horsepowers. I am aware of the earlier vendors and some progress over the years, but I don't quite understand why stock frame turbos are used at all if they are prone to overheat for track use??

So, after getting schooled by some of you in this, can you also share if there are any cooling tips on prolonging your turbo for road racing use?

Why are the Garrett GTX turbos better for cooling?

Speaking of cooling, what extra coolers are road racers running for any part of car?

Thanks!

 

I don't ever remember hearing about stock frame turbos running too hot and melting.

Keeping the turbo in it's efficiency range will help keep it from blowing hot air, which in turn will raise EGT's. Ensure you have no boost leaks as the turbo will need to spin faster to compensate for them in order to deliver the same power.

That's what I can think of.

 

I track my evo... I use DEI titanium wrap on my manifold/downpipe/dump-tube/intake pipe, lavashield covers for both sides of the turbo, fresh cold air ducting for intake, and ceramic coating on my intake manifold all to keep IAT downs. My IAT sensor usually reads within 10*F of ambient temp which is great. Before it was more like 35-50+*F above ambient on the track after 20min sessions. Not only does it give me alittle more power, but it keep lap times nice and consistent too.

Evo 8-9's generally have a lot of airflow to the engine bay area and don't suffer from overheating issues like some the cars unless its running a 1/2 radiator like on a FF turbo setup. The turbos are fine and don't suffer from heat as much as lack of oil on some journal bearing turbos(which can cause excessive heat). And in that case it's about choosing the right oil to prevent it, there is a great thread on this topic here if you search for it.

 

I've seen people powder coat compressor housing, anybody know if this helps?

 

Maybe a little, but that its for looks more than anything. A good ceramic coating protects pretty well against heat soak, but nothing beats an insulated turbo blanket... Take a look at an old F1 engine for proof

 

RJ, I think you are doing all the right things. I only understood half of what you said so I am a big fan of pics if/when you can. I like the idea of wrapping with quality material, but is it ever a concern you are locking heat in...on turbo housing etc?

What is best place to get the wrap you are using?

Thanks

 

Definatly, I would if my turbo setup wasn't out lol. My turbo is being sent to FP as we speak....


More heat on the hot side of the turbo actually allows it to spool faster. Exhaust gases move faster the hotter they are. And the cold side of the turbo is sitting an inch from my block that is radiating heat, can't be good for heat soaking. I measured the temp of my intake pipe on the inside on a 80*F day after driving and it was only at 89*F, so that seems to be working. I bought 100ft of 2" wrap new off eBay for about $100 shipped.

 

First I've ever heard this...

 

Every turbo is capable of this.

All you need to do is monitor it. Richer is cooler Leaner is hotter.

For example I installed an EGT gauge and afr gauge at wot on e85 my afr is in the low 12s high 11s and my egt is around 1200.

Since I know my ball park numbers I know that if my egt started hitting over 1600 lets say but my afrs were good I may have a boost leak

 

I've thought about a small oil /trans type coolers on the water feed line to the turbo . Small but large enough to help cool the turbo under extended stress. Of course this does no good if it takes air away from other cooling devices. So placement is key. Just a thought.

 

this is not necessarily true. egt's can get higher on richer conditions depending on other factors such as timing.

i have never heard of stock frame turbos melting when used on the track either.