So I recently did a injen intercooler piping install along with a forge recirculated bov. I understand that tuning is needed to make it run beautifully and I will be doing that in the next month. My car right now after load, and when I push down on the clutch wants to die but bounces back in rpms.
So my question is if I should just go back to the stock pipes until I decide to start tuning or if its something else?

Pipes are tight. No visible leaks. If I have to I'll do a boost leak. Since the injen pipes are pretty similar to stock and other people have posted about their car running decent without a tune, it's hard to tell what's going on. I'm guessing its running lean.

 

It didn't do that before? I'm not sure if I've ever driven a car that rpm DOESN'T drop when engaging the clutch at idle - not saying it's normal, but I thought it was.
Now I;m curious.

 

It's not normal for it to drop that low where it wants to die as he described. I would do a boost leak test just to be safe and see if it changes

 

^ yes correct. It hasnt completely died, and im still hitting the same boost as I was before (17psi). I might just keep the lower injen pipe on and switch out the top and see if there is a change and vice versa. Probably eliminate the problem faster. Whats even more weird it got worse after installing the forge bov (recirculating). Especially after replacing that crappy plastic one.

Also noticed my oil pressure went down a significant amount at idle +/- 3 psi

 

i would start with a boost leak test then go from there.

 

I would start with disconnecting the battery and reset the ecu. Re-connect then start up the car and let the ecu re-adapt.

 

I already did this. Maybe I'll let it sit longer before I reconnect it. I'll do a boost leak, if nothing comes up I'm guessing its the tune. Maybe my car is just super picky . One downside from picking up a used evo. Never know what's done to it

 

Forge recirculating BOV are well known for drivability issues. Put in a metal EVo ix DV and it will be much better.

And yes , personal experience on the Forge valve.

 

Hmmm well that sucks . I have different springs to go with it. Maybe try a lesser spring. I'm guessing the one in there right now is pretty strong. ( only opens when I get on it)

 

I'm not saying it's ok to do this but I swapped my stock intercooler pipping for ETS pipes + numerous other things and ran over a year without a tune.

and +1 on the boost leak test. Whenever you mess with intercooler or the piping, it's a good habit to do a boost leak test afterwards. Leaks will do a number on an otherwise normal running motor.

 

I'm guessing you installed the Injen intake with piping? Sounds to me like it's probably your tune. I had a very similar issue when I installed my Fujita UICP. Had to do some tuning to get it to run properly.

 

i never had a problem when i installed my injen piping. didnt need a tune or anything. i did however go buy t bolt clamps because the ones provided at the time with the kit where junk and blew off. id say if theres no boost leak then its that forge diverter valve you have. switch it back to the stock one and see what it does

 

I have an aem intake in the car right now, and it came with the car running fine. Also, I just had a code come up.... p0172 running too rich bank 1. So, guessing its a big boost leak. Im going to tear her apart today.

 

so I just ended up replacing the upper intercooler piping and that solved the problem along with adding a different spring to the forge bov. Probably need to start tuning in order to add that pipe.

 

The upper pipe won't cause any problems, especially Injen, it's so close to stock. I'd bet it was a boost leak.