Need some evo 3 engine info please
Need some evo 3 engine info please
Hi i own a evo3 7 bolt. i got the car for a good deal and its clean as hell.
the crank walked and damaged the whole bottom end. the block is still good.
I'm wondering if the parts from an American 7 bolt 4g63 can work?? i did some reading and I've founded answers.
I need to replace every moving part in the block. crank, rods, bearings, pistons. oil pump and all. IS THE TALON 7 BOLT PARTS WORK. ????
I've already reconditioned the cylinder head.
thanks for your time and consideration.
the crank walked and damaged the whole bottom end. the block is still good.
I'm wondering if the parts from an American 7 bolt 4g63 can work?? i did some reading and I've founded answers.
I need to replace every moving part in the block. crank, rods, bearings, pistons. oil pump and all. IS THE TALON 7 BOLT PARTS WORK. ????
I've already reconditioned the cylinder head.
thanks for your time and consideration.
I'm not sure about the 7-8 bolts classification but evo1-3 engine parts should be 100% compatible/interchangeable with 2nd gen DSM
Pistons, rods, crank, would fit Evo 1-9
Evo 1-4 & DSM has built-in thrust bearings with the center main bearings which is different than other Evo (5-9) bearings which have separate thrust bearings.
Pistons, rods, crank, would fit Evo 1-9
Evo 1-4 & DSM has built-in thrust bearings with the center main bearings which is different than other Evo (5-9) bearings which have separate thrust bearings.
I never heard that they came up with a sure fire fix for the crank walk problem. I owned a '92 DSM and was surprised when the 2gen car engines started walking. Anyway, the fix back then was to revert to the older 6 bolt engine.
Ya, so the 6 bolt swap, although a permanent solution to crank walk will never run as smoothly as just replacing the 7 bolt. I did all that nonsense on an eclipse. Just use the 2g parts to repair your engine.
You actually could get a stroker setup and drop it in also, that would eliminate a future possibility of crank walk. I've heard horror stories that even after rebuilding the stock block they can still walk again.
You actually could get a stroker setup and drop it in also, that would eliminate a future possibility of crank walk. I've heard horror stories that even after rebuilding the stock block they can still walk again.
thank you all so much i have just ordered all oem parts for a 600 dollar bill. lol this is cheaper than any skyline stuff. well my plans are to sell the car and get me a newer evo. Its in grate shape and i just want the buyer to be very happy. i'm very sure that under hard loads and with some time the crank will go for another walk.
i was thinking about a stroker kit. but I'm really dealing wit a budget here as i want to turn a profit for something good of course.
i have build many skyline motor with about 800 hp, but this will be my first evo.
thank you all again for your time and consideration.
i was thinking about a stroker kit. but I'm really dealing wit a budget here as i want to turn a profit for something good of course.
i have build many skyline motor with about 800 hp, but this will be my first evo.
thank you all again for your time and consideration.
Early evos (1-3) are such exceptional cars especially if well kept & maintained, their wheel base & weight to power ratio makes them great for racing. I suggest you buy aftermarket engine internals. A few years a had a good experience tuning an E3 with aftermarket internals, it would defeat all stock or near stock Evos in 1/4 mile.
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Hi sorry i didn't follow up on the thread guys. well this is what happened. i sold the Evo 3 to my friend. Then after about a month i got it back, less a grand. i sold it for 3k, and got it back after my friend got a 2zj supra for 2k and made 1k. lol
Now I'm about to build it back stock, as much as i would like to build it with race parts. I'm getting the parts from a place i found on eBay. the places name is mizumoauto. i don't know if you have ever heard of them, but before i buy anything i would still appreciate any help or suggestions. i want to show my friend that he let go the wrong car for street drag racing. stock cars vs stock cars. lol 4wd is king in street drag racing where there is no track bite. lol.
well the whole engine kit is 502.00 dollars that's with 4 stock con rods. Now the seller cant guaranty fitment of the parts and that's what i want to clarify here. he asked if the thrust bearings apart of the main bearings and i told him yes. i also mentioned the the engine is a 7 bolt. the kit has everything timing belts full gasket set. oil pump, water pump, pistons and rings, t-belt idlers pulleys, balance shaft belt, main and con rod bearings.
the price is great and all i would need is a 7 bolt crank. then i can go ahead and build the motor. This morning i started organizing parts for the build. the gear box and t-case are all like new, a matter of fact this car looks to be almost new. the inside interior i 100 percent new seats and all. from what you all are saying if it runs good i just might keep it. lol.
thanks again and please let me know of any other differences before i spend my hard earned cash. this is the link for the kit I'm buying. con rods ant there but there sold separately. and he only asked about the main bearing being apart of the thrust bearing. is the pistons different too????
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-Talon-...c49dd0&vxp=mtr
Now I'm about to build it back stock, as much as i would like to build it with race parts. I'm getting the parts from a place i found on eBay. the places name is mizumoauto. i don't know if you have ever heard of them, but before i buy anything i would still appreciate any help or suggestions. i want to show my friend that he let go the wrong car for street drag racing. stock cars vs stock cars. lol 4wd is king in street drag racing where there is no track bite. lol.
well the whole engine kit is 502.00 dollars that's with 4 stock con rods. Now the seller cant guaranty fitment of the parts and that's what i want to clarify here. he asked if the thrust bearings apart of the main bearings and i told him yes. i also mentioned the the engine is a 7 bolt. the kit has everything timing belts full gasket set. oil pump, water pump, pistons and rings, t-belt idlers pulleys, balance shaft belt, main and con rod bearings.
the price is great and all i would need is a 7 bolt crank. then i can go ahead and build the motor. This morning i started organizing parts for the build. the gear box and t-case are all like new, a matter of fact this car looks to be almost new. the inside interior i 100 percent new seats and all. from what you all are saying if it runs good i just might keep it. lol.
thanks again and please let me know of any other differences before i spend my hard earned cash. this is the link for the kit I'm buying. con rods ant there but there sold separately. and he only asked about the main bearing being apart of the thrust bearing. is the pistons different too????
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-Talon-...c49dd0&vxp=mtr
Last edited by markrampersaud; Jul 16, 2013 at 12:58 PM.
I have one concern, the kit included, seems to be for the naturally aspirated 4G63, thus the low cost. Now the question, would those pistons withstand turbo charging/boost? I really doubt it!
I also assume that con rods made for the 4G63T are higher grade than those of the naturally aspirated engine.
Again, I highly recommend that you get aftermarket pistons, con rods & bearings.
I also assume that con rods made for the 4G63T are higher grade than those of the naturally aspirated engine.
Again, I highly recommend that you get aftermarket pistons, con rods & bearings.
I have one concern, the kit included, seems to be for the naturally aspirated 4G63, thus the low cost. Now the question, would those pistons withstand turbo charging/boost? I really doubt it!
I also assume that con rods made for the 4G63T are higher grade than those of the naturally aspirated engine.
Again, I highly recommend that you get aftermarket pistons, con rods & bearings.
I also assume that con rods made for the 4G63T are higher grade than those of the naturally aspirated engine.
Again, I highly recommend that you get aftermarket pistons, con rods & bearings.
All i need now is a crank. its funny how these engines crank walk, and after looking closely at the block i see that the crank cut a groove into the main bearing seats, i believe that i can still work. because it didnt reach the actual bearing area. i wounder if its the actual bearing material thats at flaw here. or the actual material that the crank is made out of. people say changing to a stoker kit will fix this. then its somthing design wise. well thanks sgain and ill keep everyone posted.
Any 7 bolt crank will work from evo 1-9. The evo 4-9 are the pick cranks because they are always getting replaced for stroker cranks and the major thrust is alway on the opposite side to evo 1-3 because of the pull/push clutch setups so you usually have a good major thrust face. Also the evo 3 pistons are 9.0:1 and evo 1 and 2 are 8.5:1 standard.
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