awdordie

iTrader: (1)

Ive been having too many problems recently and ill say im about fed up with mitsubishi... it seems once they get over 100k miles they fall apart regardless of how well they are maintained.

Heres the issue in full detail so sorry if it seems long, just want to be thorough.

About a month ago i was driving to work and took of from a stop light, in second gear at 2500 the car cut out like a miss. At a second stop light it did the same thing except in third at a higher rpm like around 3400. when i got to work i noticed my aem wideband had stopped working. I pulled the gauge from its pod and it came back on. No issues for about a week.

The next week i get on the interstate and the car starts missing like crazy and sounded like a subaru and i noticed the wideband at the time read full lean or ---. I pulled over popped the hood and checked all the sensors i could and plug wires and coils. Nothing was loose so i decided to pull the negative battery terminal. After resetting the ecu the car fired up and ran normal minus the idle from the fuel trims being reset. Car ran fine for close to a month until tonight. On the way home from work car was fine until i stopped to get gas. Filled up, started the car, and the subaru had returned. Took off annd car started to act fine, but started missing and afr went to 15-16 and then full lean and then again did like it did on my way to work the month before hand. Pulled over checked sensors ect reset the ecu once which did nothing, the second time i left the cable off longer and the car fired up and ran normal.

Wtf is the deal? My guess is cps going bad but do not have the money to throw random sensors at it to find out. No cel at anytime, and i cant drive the car when it does this until a cel comes on as im afraid driving or letting it idle at full lean on the wideband will damage the motor. Anyone else have any ideas on where to start?

MyronGainz

iTrader: (6)

Can you tell us what mods you have, especially in terms of fueling and ignition?

egis

my guess is coil packs.

mrxx

Coils for sure

wreckleford

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind that when you have a missfire your wideband will show lean. Most people forget this but it is really measuring oxygen content and not fuel content. No combustion = lots of oxygen present.

awdordie

iTrader: (1)

Im pretty sure that its not coils, but to check i have a cop setup with two coils that are 100% not working i will install and see if the wideband does the same thing. That should create the same situation, but im pretty certain that when the coils went out and it was on the car the wideband read really rich. Thats why i replaced it with factory coils. Also i would think that a cel would most certainly pop up pretty fast with a coil out. Im aware of how a wideband works, but even soaking a rag in gasoline and putting it over the sensor makes it go full rich with no combustion so why wouldnt the same thing happen inside of the engine.... no combustion means theres still a ton of fuel present as well as a ton of oxygen.

awdordie

iTrader: (1)

car ran fine until now. subaru returned today luckily just as i was pulling in my driveway. got to hook evoscan up and pulled 3 codes (even though the light now seems to not work on the dash). what i got was P0171, P0443, and P0090. all of them are egr related. funny thing is that i deleted the egr back in the winter following the how to on evom and disabled the necessary things via ecuflash in the periphery bits. also today the wb pulled its infamous "im just gonna stop working now" trick. the wb is soldered into the ecu for logging purposes also following a how to on evom using the rear o2 deletion patch etc. so im no closer to figuring out the problem than i was. any ideas now that we have some codes and more info to go on?

awdordie

iTrader: (1)

pulled the rom off the car a second ago and some of the periphery bits were no longer set correctly... im wondering if i maybe flashed the car since deleting the egr in the winter and now that its warmer its affecting it. i dont remember reflashing the car but they did somehow get changed back. i flashed the correct ones back in after reviewing the egr how to again and i guess we will see since i again had to disconnect the negative terminal and reset the ecu. ill check back in around 3 weeks from now lol

AreSTG

iTrader: (4)

I just kind of want to say that 100k miles out of a performance engine sounds pretty good to me. I'd be pissed if my stock civic I bought to DD went to hell at 100k, but a boosted performance car I would accept a refresh.

I think compression and leakdown test are always a good place to start diagnosing issues.

evoschmevo

Check your maf sensor and fuel lines. That also could be the problem. Coils could be it or plugs? Or you might need to do the egr bypass again.

awdordie

iTrader: (1)

Its nothing to do with compression or valves... so no need for a comp test or leakdown. It wouldnt happen each month it would happen every time the car was started. As for plugs they are changed every oil change and im 99% sure its not coils with the codes it threw. But the reflash didnt help. Problem is worse now. Car ran fine till almost to work and started acting up again. Ill pull codes again when I get home.

10isace

iTrader: (12)

What are your low and mid LTFT's? A log of when this is happening would help diagnose the problem.

beasters

I had an issue where my car would misfire on the freeway when lightly on throttle and tried replacing cops and rewiring them. Didnt fix my issue. It would never would throw a check engine light. The one thing that fixed it for me was replacing the oem fuel sock attached to the fuel pump. It was clogged up in certain places and caused a cutting in and out condition until I let of the gas an put it in neutral for a second. Just thought I'd mention it.

awdordie

iTrader: (1)

took two hours, but got the car home. today car would not stop doing this bull **** at all. every so often it would miss and clear up in every gear. this morning i drove an hour to work and it started acting up about 3 miles from work. i had training for six hours so car sat for that long, come out fired up ran fine... started to head to the other shop (my actual work) and got almost there which is about an hour away and it started again. so now im thinking its time/temperature related since it happened twice about the same driving distance. i told my production supervisor i couldnt make it in so i could try and diagnose the problem. on top of all that they have been working on the cell phone towers here so i havent been able to get online and search until now.

here is what i did today i drove home with it doing its **** intermittently. stupid i know, but i wanted to make sure i got a log of what its doing. so when i got close to home it started to clear up and act more normal but still not 100%. the first log i took was idling, the second was a two minute drive up the road where it acted fine until i turned around and then it started acting horrible.

here are the logs in order idle first and short drive second.

logs.zip

i didnt see anything out of the ordinary to myself except i would have thought that the injector duty cycle and pulse width would have been higher. i did reset the ecu a few times before these logs to try and get home, but nothing else was done, and both logs have the car acting up in them.

when i got home from logging i turned the car off came in to upload them and thats when i noticed i didnt have cell service. i screwed around trying to get my internet working for a couple hours and decided to try and go get it put on a better scanner than evoscan. my last resort mechanic (if i cant do something myself) put it on his computer and it would not even communicate with the car so that idea was a bust. im still completely lost on this.

awdordie

iTrader: (1)

dug deeper into the P0131 code and seen that it could be tons of things... great!!!!

I took my maf off and cleaned it... doubt it will help but whatever ill give anything a shot to fix this.

pulled the sending unit out of the tank (forgot how much of a pita this was) filter looks normal, no debri in the tank, no rust, etc.



and again searched for any frayed, loose, or just not hooked up wires and sensors... got nothing.

i guess if i cant figure this out ill be forced to just either throw parts at the car or wait till it just completely will not run right and drive it until a cel comes up and risk blowing it up.

im unsure of how to diagnose an intermittent miss from a coil when it does it only every so often or else i would do that. im just being led to believe its something totally different since twice now it has started acting up and the aem wb cutting off completely when it happens.