well i am due for my oil change and i was wondering which oil filter i should use for mobil 15w-50.

 

bump seriously now i really wanna know cause someone told me that my stock filter would be good enough. so just incase i wanna know what filter i can use to be on the safe side

 

why are you using such a heavy oil? i thought the evo used 10w-30 normally?

and yes, the stock filter from Mitsu is what's said to be the best, or better worded, good enough. i know i don't own an evo, but this is what i hear from the people on this forum.

 

The mobil 15w-50 is labeled as a "High-Performance" formula designed specifically for racing engines, turbocharge and supercharged engines. In fact, DINAN actually said in one of the car mags that he likes the thick stuff for turbo applications.
I have it in my car now and I cannot feel any ill effects and I don't think I am supposed to, but I am hoping for a little added protection internally.

 

The K&N model 1010 is what you want. Advanced Auto Parts sells them. Unless your modded out pretty heavy, you don't need to run anything but the 10w30., but the 15/50 or 20w50 won't hurt.

 

When the turbo or supercharger shares the engine oil, what you need is synthetic, not "heavy" oil.

Heavy oils are for older engines with loose tolerances on the parts, where you need a thicker oil to fill the larger gaps between parts.

Synth oils do not go "thin" at high temps like dino oils, so you don't need to go 15w50 on general principles. Stick with the 10w30, unless you have a well calibrated oil pressure gauge telling you that you're losing pressure on hot days (e.g. Death Valley in August.)

The K&N filter is made by Champ Labs, and isn't much different from the $1.97 SuperTech ST7317 you can get at Walmart. You can call the Champion filter hotline at 1-800-882-0890 to get a specific comparison on the K&N. When I called, the SuperTech is a 20 micron filter for general use. The Mobil-1 filter (M1-108), also made by Champion, uses a higher synthetic thread count, and is rated a 10 micron filter, specifically for synthetic oils. M1 filters run $11.99 or so at AutoZone. I didn't ask about K&N.

The newer SuperTech filters went to a baseplate bypass valve, which is cheaper to produce than the traditional spring-type bypass, as used on the M1. Without an oil pressure gauge, I'd lean towards the tried and tested bypass type. But the SuperTech I bought at Walmart still had the spring type. I'll be putting a M1 on the car, but will keep the SuperTech as a spare.

If you're looking at 15W50 for an older european car, using dino oil, then I'd recommend going with a Baldwin filter, for standpipe, well calibrated bypass, and ability to withstand high start-up pressure surges. (I use a Baldwin on the 328 with Agip 10w40 semi synth.)

But for the EVO, I'd say go full synth 10w30 with an M1-108.

 

FYI

When I had my wrx (330 whp) I used this weight once and the tech who changed my oil could tell...He said that they noticed a "gumming up" of the engine....I switched to Amsoil 10w30 and the issue resolved itself....

Just my .02

 

Who told you that?

 

I should'a been more specific. Synth oils don't "break down" like dino oils at turbo temps. They get somewhat thinner at operating temps than when cold, but not the same way that dino oils do.

For a lot of blather on the subject, check out http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthr...6&page=4&pp=19

 

Mobil 1 !!!

 

back to the big old oil debate, 15w is really not a thick/heavy oil if you compare it to the old standard 30W. but today so many cars are using 10W-30 that it does seem thick, it should be fine. but what alot of people here are saying i think is why go with a 15W when you can get a 5w or 10w for the same cost if your using synthetic and it will flow better you want have to worry about changing if temps get cold and as long as its a 30 or 50 on the big end it will work as well. all the synthetics are much better to start with and you can stretch out your changes to the 5000 mile mitsu wants with no worries. PS all synthetics are a 30w oil to start with they add goodies to allow them to flow down to 0W good articles at amsoil.com to catch you up to speed it you want.

http://www.performanceoiltechnology....toildoiuse.htm

 

Synthetic oils generally have a higher High Temp / High Shear (HT/HS) number that relates to the ability of an oil to resist high temp shearing.

Although not the same as "thinning", the shearing effect can produce some pretty nasty things.

In a high stress engine, one has to balance the kinematic viscosity with the ability to resist localized shearing and oil film loss. By moving to a 'tougher' synthetic molecule, one is able to provide a thin enough viscosity to get good flow and pressure, along with a 'tough' lube film that protects.

You are correct that 11cSt @ 100º is 11cSt, but one may have an HTHS of 3.7 cP while the other is much thinner at 3.05 cP.

ferb!

 

DGS,
what is wrong with the Baldwin on an Evo?

 

Does Baldwin or Hastings even make a filter for the Evo? I always thought they were definately more of the FL-1A and larger people.

Nothing quite small enough for an import.

ferb!

 

I'm sorry but the "W" in 10w-30 or 15w-50 does not stand for "weight". It stands for "WINTER". A 10W-30 is a 30 weight oil. A 15w-50 is a 50 weight oil ect, ect.....

The "W" rating is a reference to how the oil will act when it is cold.
Amway oil sucks.