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The 84rs sounds like a great idea however, I did notice the specs difference. The gtw stuff I havent looked into much due to being committed to the full race ts t3. Even then locked so specifically to a t3 ts turbine housing I hope this works 🤣 especially since I anticipate significantly more intense surge.
Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Feb 15, 2019 at 04:57 PM.
So the tuning is done, at least I hope it is done assuming it will run the same on 93 pump. I spent today dialing in the MIVEC based on yesterday's results and upon just swapping in the new MIVEC table the surge went from happenning 80% of the time to happening 20% of the time in 3rd. I also saw consistently faster boost above 20psi by holding the timing longer and then ramping it out less aggressively with most full rampout by ~6000RPM. However, what I noticed with the R2's is they did not like the additional overlap above 6K and running -2deg killed power so I found the sweet spot for my setup around 2deg @ 7500rpm. Here is the final MIVEC map.
Here is the log comparison for the VD results below comparing my last pass yesterday vs my last pass today after about 10 passes (blue is today). You can see the 1deg I added yesterday after my final log, MIVEC holds longer before ramping out, AFR is leaned out due to MIVEC changes as I didn't touch fuel, boost response quicker. The early logs showed 33psi@4250rpm when the engine was not as heat soaked.
In my haste creating the new MIVEC map I forgot about idle so I was wondering why the car was not idling very well. With the base map it idles very well so I went back and modified for idle, essentially cam timing is just -1.2deg. I'll try it out tomorrow, but I am sure it is good so hopefully this is my finished map.
I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you asking me if I set a limit to how much boost I am willing to run?
yes.
I recall my mivec actual values being very jagged. Are you seeing that?
one thing I am unable to determine with the vipec is what 0 refers to in the mivec table. Is it referring to degrees advanced from full off on the solenoid? Or is it the actual degrees advanced ? I ask because I cant enter negative values in the tables. Lightly ot, but how did the haltech work?
-1.2 deg at idle works well for my 2.0L with R2 cams.
Indeed, it really idles well and usually seeing -11inHg. BTW, I added the startup tables and the "IPW while cranking starter (Main Maps)" values were 15ms so I lowered them by about 1/2 and the car fires up instantly so disregard my last email.
Originally Posted by 211ratsbud
yes.
I recall my mivec actual values being very jagged. Are you seeing that?
one thing I am unable to determine with the vipec is what 0 refers to in the mivec table. Is it referring to degrees advanced from full off on the solenoid? Or is it the actual degrees advanced ? I ask because I cant enter negative values in the tables. Lightly ot, but how did the haltech work?
Yes, that is something that I was seeing today so it got me thinking whether I needed to replace the MIVEC solenoid. MIVEC timing would jump around and oddly inconsistent run to run on the topend so not sure what to think. I haven't searched to understand if this is a common issue. Another thing, I seem to only be able to run ~26deg despite commanding 28deg, which may be a physical limitation without doing the ER mod. I sent JB a note asking how much intake cam timing can be physically run (assuming gear doesn't limit) before you have piston/valve clearance issues. I ask because I have seen benefits on the GTR at almost 40deg advance although my current tune runs 31deg advance. Below is my dyno run @ ~700h@wheels with the Xona Green turbochargers.
Regarding the Haltech, I am almost certain it allowed me to run negative cam timing on the topend. At 0deg I assume that is when the piston is at TDC.
What is the basis for how much boost i will run...I guess it is based on what I have been able to get away with up to now. My buddy "Drifto" runs 37psi on a 9:1 setup with 93 pump on his 8 so definitely it is possible to run more. I suppose you just turn up the boost and lower the ignition timing and see what happens. There would be a point of diminishing returns, but unsure what PSI that would be. I am already at a 3.25 pressure ratio so based on the map I'm thinking it won't benefit past about 38-40psi (regardless of fuel), but don't know what that means in terms of the abilities of the turbine wheel. I should probably hook up my turbo speed sensor gauge since the sensor is in the compressor housing and the gauge is in my closet.
At this point I am definitely thinking I need more turbine wheel and slightly more compressor wheel for this setup. However, that likely means building another header and my injectors (PTE 1000's) are already 95% IDC so that's another $500-$800.
I finally ran all the 110L out of the tank and completely filled the tank with Shell 93 upping my ethanol content from E1 up to E8. I typically see E9 with Shell 93 so I got most of the 110L out of the tank. I lowered the boost back to ~28psi and will take the car out and raise the boost after this post.
Next order of business was to do the ~500mile oil change and switch to synthetic Mobile 1 0W-40 (FS).
Unfortunately, when I went to fill the filter with oil I noticed it was defective. Off to Napa for a new one!
Finally, I addressed an issue with misfire I get sometimes when it rains. Without the cover you can get water down in the spark plug hole and it causes a misfire. It doesn't take much for this to happen. With the Bosch Racing Coils the cover doesn't fit so I got some ~1/2" spacers and longer bolts so I could put on the cover to protect the coils. I also had to grind out the end on the driver's side to make room for the wiring harness.
I'm off to see if this thing will take 33psi on 93 pump!
So 33psi on 93 pump no problem, but AFR's are kind of lean. Definitely the tune doesn't account for the changes in air density very well.
To answer 211ratsbud's question, let's turn up the boost to 34psi. Although I got a 2 count of "KnockSum" at ~6400rpm, I was having a very slight misfire so that could be the cause of the knock count. I am running stock plugs at stock gap so I need to log my dwell times to see how much spark energy I am putting out on the P100-T coils. Unfortunately, it is now raining so that is it for today.
I'm a bit fascinated by you running 0W-40. A lot of people recommend 20W-50 for built motors, but since my motor is only a drop-in build, I'm running 10W-40 Amsoil, and my 2618 pistons, cylinders, and rod big end bearings looked great after 20K miles. I've wondered whether it would make sense to use 0W-40.
is this decreasing slope a result of your standalone boost controller and gain settings ? Or is the turbine getting a little choked?
great results and will you ever put it on a stationary dyno?
I posted the raw data for each of the VD results so I am unsure the reference to decreasing slope. Initial runs will always have quicker boost response because the setup is cold so i can go out and make 33psi@4250rpm in 3rd and present a better graph. However, I typically try to show results from a heat soaked motor as the boost response drops by 100-200rpm, but is also dependent on my starting RPM. In the case of today I made 3 passes within 15 minutes because I have to pull over after driving a few miles after the pull, analyze the log, make changes, reflash, and then wait for the road to clear. I would have done more, but it starting raining so I had to call it quits. From my experience with the GTR and the EVO, VD results are fairly close to the DynoJet results, but we shall see.
Also, yesterday I was running on 1/8 of a tank and today I was running on a full tank, but I did not compensate in VD for the additional weight. So if I add 6.3lbs/gallon x 10gallons and my VD results are now 560/465. I use VD to understand general trends based on changes and I have to admit, it is sometimes hard to make a determination because there is variation from run to run regardless of whether you make a change. Anyway...yes, I plan to take the car to the dyno either late this week or early next week, but need to call the shop to see availability.
Feb 15, 2019, 04:37 PM
