roni4g63

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,

So I'm just getting familiar with tuning/data logging. I have recently modified my rom to a tephra v7 and while I was driving my car, the knocksum CEL started flashing, so I data logged my car to find the I get upwards of 8 counts of knocks sometimes in 3rd gear WOT. Now I have read the "How to tune an evo" guide and watched r3compiles videos and I know that evos come with alot of timing advance from the factory, but my question was: before I attempt to pull timing, would it be wise to invest in a set of 1 step colder plugs such as NGK BPR8ES? I know the rule of thumb is "every 100hp 1 step colder" but since the whole point is to reduce detonation, wouldn't this be helpful in my case??

Anyway, thank you for reading and thanks for your help in advance

kaj

iTrader: (60)

from what i'm told, all tuners retard the timing. especially once you start leaning out the AFRs. you should have no issues with stock plugs.

get that timing curve set! good luck, man.

roni4g63

iTrader: (1)

Kaj, thanks brother, yeah that's what I'll do, but do you think the plugs would be a good idea? never experimented with colder range plugs, and for the price, can't hurt right?

Thanks, it's alot of information to soak in but im slowly getting everything! lol

kaj

iTrader: (60)

honestly, i've never run colder plugs, no matter what power range i was at. i can't say if there is a downside to running plugs colder than you need.

i know with my other cars, hotter plugs worked better. in fact, Copper seemed to be best, but i don't know about with Evos (they don't make a copper plug for my IX).

with my car, i only change what needs to be changed. i see no reason to run a colder plug... but that's why my sig says what it does LOL. maybe someone with knowledge on the subject will chime in. i'm just speaking from my experience and the fact that my Tuner backed it up by telling me not to run colder plugs (i was at about 360whp on 91oct and 430 on e85).

you will get a lot of opinions going both ways, most likely. read all you can and base your decision on what you find.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

No need for colder plugs. I run stock heat range on my red, even on pump gas. Just need to work on the tuning..

Evo8cy

The plugs are not your problem, colder plugs should be used as boost pressure and power goes up if there are any misfire issues due to fouling of the spark plug, after you have tried gapping the plugs to the minimum possible gap for the setup you are running. Firstly you need to determine if your problem is pre-ignition or detonation, both situations create knock but due to different reasons. An easy way to see which of the two is, is to spot the cels or map area/s where knocks occurs and start reducing timing gradually in small counts each time until knock drops to reasonable levels, a bit of knock as long as you are still making power is ok.



What you can do though, as far as plugs, is change them to a non protruded type, try br7es.










Marios

roni4g63

iTrader: (1)

Thank you everyone for your input. Greatly appriciated.

roni4g63

iTrader: (1)

Evo8cy, What do you mean by "non protruded"?

And I guess I just need to adjust my timing map, I'm not making ANY adjustments till I can get my boost&afr gagues by the end of the week just so I know what the heck the car is throwing in the combustion chamber & out the tailpipe

Evo8cy

You do not need either a boost gauge or an afr one to do what I have said, reducing timing in the cels where knock occurs will not create any sort of issues on the contrary it will allow you to run your car safely. Even if it is a stockish setup you are running, since you are a beginner in mapping you should not try to map your car in an effort to extract the most power out of it without an afr and boost gauge. When you have enough experience in mapping you will know how to throw a decent map on a stockish setup based on logs of other parameters , i.e knock, egts etc, without the use of an air/fuel mixture reading, something which is not reccomended of course but it can be done.




As for "non protruded", google it.










Marios

sparky

iTrader: (1)

The letter "P" in BPR refers to the tip of the spark plug protruding. So, for example, the BPR7ES features a protruding tip. Whereas, the BR7ES(note: no "P") has a recessed insulator tip and center electrode.