Turbo water line leaks
Jun 8, 2016, 01:58 PM
#31
I was gonna ask about the surface of the pipes. It seems like the slightest imperfection in the surface keeps them from sealing no matter what.
As for the copper washers on all of our banjo bolts: when I pull them off, I can see where they have formed around the edges to seal in the fluids. As long as I am seeing that, I'm using copper washers. LOL
Oddly enough, my MIVEC line where it goes into the head keeps leaking no matter what I do. New copper washers and torqued 1 to 2 pounds above spec, still leaking.
It's very frustrating as it drips down my dipstick onto the oil pan and spreads everywhere from there.
Maybe I should remove the inside washer LOL
As for the copper washers on all of our banjo bolts: when I pull them off, I can see where they have formed around the edges to seal in the fluids. As long as I am seeing that, I'm using copper washers. LOL
Oddly enough, my MIVEC line where it goes into the head keeps leaking no matter what I do. New copper washers and torqued 1 to 2 pounds above spec, still leaking.
It's very frustrating as it drips down my dipstick onto the oil pan and spreads everywhere from there.
Maybe I should remove the inside washer LOL
Jun 8, 2016, 02:07 PM
#32
Lol obviously not a "battle" it was merely a metaphor. But glad you enjoyed it, Im bored at work right meow...anyway while youre a're right that the surfaces are supposed to be perfectly flat, and they should seal without any crush washers it is still common practice to use a crush washer on both sides and new ones every time its undone.
Glad to hear that it has worked for you in the past however I think its not wise to do so especially given your comment about tightening it a little more as banjo bolts snap very easily and even more troublesome would be when you rip out the aluminum thread in the head.
Anyway,glad its no longer leaking. I think the corosion on the hard lines is very common, I mean there is literally water running through there. I cleaned up my old hard lines with a scotch brite or steel wool or something prior to installing new rubber hoses. Now have the body shop fix your car properly and I wish you luck with everything!
Glad to hear that it has worked for you in the past however I think its not wise to do so especially given your comment about tightening it a little more as banjo bolts snap very easily and even more troublesome would be when you rip out the aluminum thread in the head.
Anyway,glad its no longer leaking. I think the corosion on the hard lines is very common, I mean there is literally water running through there. I cleaned up my old hard lines with a scotch brite or steel wool or something prior to installing new rubber hoses. Now have the body shop fix your car properly and I wish you luck with everything!
Jun 8, 2016, 02:13 PM
#33
Evolved Member
I was gonna ask about the surface of the pipes. It seems like the slightest imperfection in the surface keeps them from sealing no matter what.
As for the copper washers on all of our banjo bolts: when I pull them off, I can see where they have formed around the edges to seal in the fluids. As long as I am seeing that, I'm using copper washers. LOL
Oddly enough, my MIVEC line where it goes into the head keeps leaking no matter what I do. New copper washers and torqued 1 to 2 pounds above spec, still leaking.
It's very frustrating as it drips down my dipstick onto the oil pan and spreads everywhere from there.
Maybe I should remove the inside washer LOL
As for the copper washers on all of our banjo bolts: when I pull them off, I can see where they have formed around the edges to seal in the fluids. As long as I am seeing that, I'm using copper washers. LOL
Oddly enough, my MIVEC line where it goes into the head keeps leaking no matter what I do. New copper washers and torqued 1 to 2 pounds above spec, still leaking.
It's very frustrating as it drips down my dipstick onto the oil pan and spreads everywhere from there.
Maybe I should remove the inside washer LOL
Not every instance is the same. Especially with oil sealing, always use washers. Try a softer copper type washer.
Marios
Jun 8, 2016, 02:23 PM
#35
Evolved Member
Lol obviously not a "battle" it was merely a metaphor. But glad you enjoyed it, Im bored at work right meow...anyway while youre a're right that the surfaces are supposed to be perfectly flat, and they should seal without any crush washers it is still common practice to use a crush washer on both sides and new ones every time its undone.
Glad to hear that it has worked for you in the past however I think its not wise to do so especially given your comment about tightening it a little more as banjo bolts snap very easily and even more troublesome would be when you rip out the aluminum thread in the head.
Anyway,glad its no longer leaking. I think the corosion on the hard lines is very common, I mean there is literally water running through there. I cleaned up my old hard lines with a scotch brite or steel wool or something prior to installing new rubber hoses. Now have the body shop fix your car properly and I wish you luck with everything!
Glad to hear that it has worked for you in the past however I think its not wise to do so especially given your comment about tightening it a little more as banjo bolts snap very easily and even more troublesome would be when you rip out the aluminum thread in the head.
Anyway,glad its no longer leaking. I think the corosion on the hard lines is very common, I mean there is literally water running through there. I cleaned up my old hard lines with a scotch brite or steel wool or something prior to installing new rubber hoses. Now have the body shop fix your car properly and I wish you luck with everything!
If one is not capable with his hands and or does not have the insight on an engine then one should not touch one. I never mentioned the head, I only quoted about the MHI housing. The head is aluminium and with aluminum one should always be more careful when tightening things. The MHI housing is made of cast iron and the water bolt is pretty strong so it can take quite a bit more force than what mitsi says, so do most of the 4g63 bolts. But even when **** happens a good mechanic knows how to un-**** things lol.
And although the body shop comment was not meant for me, I only use one when I do not have the space or equipment to do the job myself, otherwise I am a better painter than most professionals I know.
That's it from me, you all have a nice day now!
Marios
Jun 8, 2016, 02:26 PM
#36
Evolved Member
Jun 8, 2016, 02:49 PM
#38
Evolved Member
It is most likely the way you and I'm sure others perceive it. But it is far from reality or my intention to do so. I am just frank, straightforward on reality as it is, too straightforward sometimes in a strong way which it is nevertheless much better than the usual bull**** you might get from people.
Marios
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