I am having ayc trouble(3 lights on) on my jdm 01 vii and want to try bleeding the system before replacing the pump. Could somebody please confirm these steps are coerect.
1. Open the bleeder located on the transfer case
2. Have someone turn ignition to on position without starting
3. Hold the throttle down to activate pump
4. Fill from white tank located the left side of the trunk while draining.

 

exactly but you need to hold the full throttle while you turn on the ignition and then wait for a few sec for the pump to start..

btw bleeding the system will not help in 99% of the cases..

 

Yeah probably not I just want to rule out everything. Could you tel be what the draining plug looks like and where exactly it is. Many thanks

 

draining plug? There is a small bleeder on the bottom of the ACD diff... just like a brake bleeder..

 

Great. Thanks for the help I'll update after I bleed it.

 

which evo do you have?

 

2001 evo vii Mr. Jdm model

 

Hey Kiki question for you being the ACD AYC pump guru. So I just completed relocating my ACD pump to my trunk. Being that I made a new hydraulic line I had a feeling getting all the air out was going to be a little challenging. I've bled my ACD numerous times in the past after doing clutches just fresh fluid etc and never ran into any issues. However this time around Im having trouble getting all the air out. I checked all my fittings and there doesnt appear to be any leaks so I think my process to bleed it is flawed.

I know there are 1000 threads on this already so I hate to beat a dead horse but figure you guys are talking about this now so here we go again.

In the past I simply put the key in the 2nd ignition and held the gas pedal down. After the pedal is floored I would crack open the bleeder. The thing is that I hear my pump turn on and then about a second later you hear it built pressure as the sound changes as it should and then it shuts off. When it shuts off should I close the bleeder right then or can i leave it open assuming the gas is still held down? Bc when I do that I can still get fluid out...but I will still get pockets or air.

And if Im supposed to close the bleeder right as the pump shuts off im basically not going to get any fluid out bc the pump shuts off extremely quickly...

I read that keeping the bleeder open may be introducing air back into the system so that may be where Im going wrong?

I have Evoscan and a 1.3U (think that's the letter, I know I can log and reflash my ECU with it) as well as a 2.0 cable but I believe a pin needs to be removed to allow the bleed function of Evoscan to work? Im also open to applying 12v to the pump motor and soleniod if that would make things easier. Im sure there are premade kits I could buy as well as bring it to the dealership but seems like a wasted expense and I've gotten this far.

Any feedback would be much appreciated! Thanks again for your help!

 

Just get a vacuum bleeder. Hook it up, and pull the fluid through. 100x easier than dicking around with the throttle and trying to get the pump to run and what not.

 

Does that actually work for the ACD? The one time I tried to use a vacuum bleeder it failed miserably as air was leaking past the threads on my clutch slave cylinder so I scrapped it and use either 2 person or my Motive Power bleeder for clutch and brakes. Now obviously the power bleeder wont work for this application but I guess vacuum could work in theory.

Just sucks bc I've bled my ACD so many times before and never had an issue. But obviously much more air was introduced into the system this time around given the new line.

 

Works perfect for me. I've done it on my car more times than I care to count. I've never had an ACD issue.


I also use it before I disconnect the line to remove the tcase to pull all of the fluid out of the reservoir and the rest of the system. Reduces the mess by a lot when you take the line off the tacse. And it work's pretty awesome for flushing the brake system too. It was a really good investment. You just need a semi decent air compressor to run it.


https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-...VST3JHSTEYWSS1

 

Interesting. I thought you were talking about the little hand pump vacuum kind. Hmm I wonder if I can rent one of those things or if any of my buddies have one I can borrow? Im sure it would come in handy down the road but I kinda like doing my brakes with the Motive already since I dont really need to keep an eye on the fluid level. And I've got plenty of volume with my Champion 2 stage compressor...

 

So I just found this and it seems like a good process. The Mityvac certainly sounds interesting but I dont wanna spend the money right now and also wanna get this done ASAP.

Basically in a nutshell this process seems straight forward and all I need is spare wire and a battery which I have. Build pressure with gas pedal shut off car disconnect plug for solenoid and pressure sensor jump it to open solenoid simultaneously while opening up bleeder screw and hold it open for 6-7 seconds or guessing until fluid no longer comes out then close bleeder and disconnect power. Rinse and repeat. Am I following this correctly? And does polarity on the solenoid matter? Guessing no but would rather ask then screw it up and kill it...

 

Sounds like a lot of work where a $130 dollar tool will complete the job in.....15 seconds. There are less expensive vacuum bleeders also, that's just the one I bought..

 

Yeah I do like that bleeder though...prob is if I buy that tool it wont be here until the weekend. Plus Im trying to stop buying things right now as money is bleeding out of my pockets. I know I could rent a hand pump but that doesnt seem nearly as sweet as the tool you linked. I may go that route but I'd like to try doing it manually for now before I throw in the towel.