suby2evo

iTrader: (1)

So I have 125k on my stock block evo 9 and still don't burn any oil
(mobil 1 0W-40 3-3500miles), I make about 365whp with bolt ons and kelford 272's on pump gas. For reference I've had my car for 6 years now and it gets abused more than a Catholic Latina wife.


I know I will have to build the bottom end sooner than later and I'd like to see who is capable of building a tight motor that consumes little to no oil.
So I would like to see how many miles you have on your setup with mods that matter listed and the engine builder. Go!

jnassar89

Yes ^^^ i am at 180K with 460whp on e85 and i am in the same boat. I have heard great things about Curt Brown Racing but haven't seen anything

Teal2nnr

iTrader: (7)

There's a lot of good builders out there. When I get another built bottom end, I'm going with English Racing.

barneyb

2618 forged pistons are the strongest and what you want for a high hp boosted engine. 2618 alloy expands a lot and the engine will burn some oil. There's other materials that expand less but are not as strong.

detroit pistins

iTrader: (102)

I think all builders can build either setup (tight or loose). You will have to make that decision based on your needs;
Tighter tolerances; less oil consumption, less blow-by, higher compression….. Undesirable increased side wall friction at higher rpm’s
Looser tolerances; Great for high rpm’s, but at the cost of the other 3 elements.
You may think that your stock motor at 365 is doing the job, however, typically people push these engines once they are built so the results may differ.
I choose Besnik Engines for all my builds….. I have my fuel cut setup at 9600 rpm on a 2.1l 
Good luck!
https://www.facebook.com/Besnik-Engi...8292376579095/

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

My stock motor burns some oil. You have to find a builder that builds them right. Which is they set clearances for your power goals and how the engine will be used. But its really kind of a crap shoot. No two built motors are the same, even the same shop builds them with the same parts.


My stock motor uses about 1qt with 3k miles of regular driving. It'll use a qt in one track day though. So it depends on how it gets driven. 1qt in 3k miles for normal driving is minimal oil consumption. Most manufacturers don't consider engines for warranty until they start consuming >1qt in <700-1000 miles. And even then, the motor has to fail compression and leak down tests or they might just put a head on it thinking valve seals are the likely culprit.


Also remember that turbo's can push a little oil that will go unnoticed.

suby2evo

iTrader: (1)

I have no desire for an evo with more than 400whp, I've had my car for almost 7 years now and I find that to be the perfect power level coupled with some ohlins DFV and sticky summer tires to be a winning combo. In other words I'll never need a motor that gets to 9600 rpm haha. But tell me more about your experience with Besnik.


I'm assuming you have a destroked 4G64, I'm curious about the following
-power level
-how long you've had the motor
-oil change interval
-oil consumption
-

suby2evo

iTrader: (1)

I understand that they can choose to build it loose or tight, but still I would like to see some consistency in this thread because there must be builders with some sort of consistency, most people I know with stock motors don't burn oil reguardless of power level. Basically my goal of this thread is to have multiple people reporting good feedback about a single shop weather it be English racing, Curt Brown, Tscomptuned or even someone who is known outside the evo community such as Besnik which I'm hearing for the first time.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

I don't think you'll find one shop rising above the rest from this thread.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

You could try a high-end racing shop, but what they would charge for assembly is way beyond what most Evo owners want to pay. I had Ed Pink Racing Engines do the machine work on my block. But if they were to assemble and build it too?

Ed Pink charges by the hour. Most engine assembly comes in at 70 to 100 hours at $105/hour for shop labor. And if you've had work done by someone else, they won't take it. Meaning, if you have a head done by another shop, they will insist on disassembling the whole thing to make sure it's put together correctly because it's their name on the motor. That adds more hours.

So, a high end engine assembly done by race engine builders is out of the scope of most street car engine builds and most motorsports ones too...at least for Evo owners lol

http://www.edpink.com/

BiFfMaN

iTrader: (3)

Close to 4000 miles on my self-built motor (Parts are from ER), Still has yet to burn oil. Took my time and Measured everything during the build. I will report back after 10k.

marrrk

iTrader: (2)

I have a boostin performance built engine with over 125,000. car has been in the 410-470ish since it was built. was built in 2008 or 2009 cant really remember has been high 10s low to mid 11s countless passes and a couple clutches, broken cam, broken belt tensioner. both times had valves bent, and it still runs great. compression test shows some wear but still strong, uses some oil but not bad considering. I have a post on it the Midwest region, page 2. boostin builds like 4-6 engines per month ! I trust a shop with their back ground ! 7.46@ 199mph... last time at the track on stock turbo on 93 car went 11.97 @113 and its daily driven 95 miles every day, except in winter, sold my snows, no more winters.
sorry for the long read,

Boostin Perform

iTrader: (7)

Awesome! Thanks for the props, and glad to see you are enjoying the car as both a daily, and track car.

suby2evo

iTrader: (1)

bump! Now these are the kind of results I'm looking for!! good job boostin

nemsin

iTrader: (19)

Unless you have a specific engine builder you really want to work with, just go with the closest reputable shop that will stand behind their work. Imo, if you are lucky enough to have a quality "local" shop, its worth it to support them.