Hey guys,

I have never done this and i am just wondering what the easiest way to remove the stock o2 housing. I am replacing it with an 02 dump. I have seen different ways to do it. Mainly removing the exhuast manifold is most likely the easiest. I would go that route but am afriad of snapping any botls and the are pretty well rusted. I have been spraying them with pb blaster and help temove some rust build up.

Just curious if thers any other ways to do it. Removing the down pipe bolts from under the cat ate u able to reach all the bolts on the 02 housing from underneath?

Thank you guys for your help. ​​​Hope to figure this out without any troubles. Not to mention that a lift eould be a tremendous help. Thanks again

Tim

 

Get some pb blaster, start spraying the bolts every day for a few days, it will work.
I did it the hard way, removed radiator, the whole 9 !!!

 

Impact gun will make quick work of it ! This is the hardest section to get to while installed on the car, radiator WILL be in the way .
If you decide to perform while installed on the car, put a lot of cardboard in front of the radiator to prevent damage.

 

Thank you it seems that removong rhe exhuast manifold and radiator will be the easiest way. I just recently replaced my rad with a mishimoto, so it shouldnt be too hard to get out if i have to and dont want ro risk too much damage.

I have used a can on pb blaster over the last 3 days. My part will be here on monday or tuesday. The heatshield is still in place sobi cant spray all the bolts on the housing. I have jacked the car up and slid under to spray downpipe botld n one underside that i can see.

Impact gun would most likey be the easiest but again worried about snapping the bolts. Thanks for the help. Keep you updated

 

Glad I could point you in the right direction, don't forget to replace the o2 gasket, and use anti seize during re assembly.
I just thought of something,

REMOVE THE DOWNPIPE
REMOVE THE V BAND CLAMP ON THE TURBO
USE A MALLET TO SEPARATE THE TURBINE HOUSING
UNPLUG THE O2
LEAVE THE RADIATOR IN THE CAR

WIGGLE IT FREE USING BOTH HANDS TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE RADIATOR

Don't forget to loosen the turbine support bracket on the bottom of the assembly connected to the engine block

 

X2 on rust penetrates.
I wouldnt use impacts.
Remove rad or block it to avoid punctures.
Have patience.
Have different forms of 14mm
Wrenches,sockets,deep,shallow,swivels,flared wrenches,long,short wrenches,12 point,6 point,9/16. You cant just go in there with 1 14mm wrench and 1 14mm socket. The room is limited. Also have a flex head ratchet handy

 

I just ended up removing the dp, misc lines and 4 bolts off the turbo took it all out as one. That's the route I'd go, no need to take the turbo manifold off.

 

Just pull the turbo out of the car.

 

After a few days of pb blasting, try removing after driving the car for a bit. Obviously be careful because everything will be really hot, but the heat can sometimes help break the rust free and you can at least break the bolts loose. Then once it cools down, fully remove.

 

I figured I could add a little bit to this comment. On the anti-seize lubricant, the standard stuff won't cut it for the high temps the exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and o2 housing will see. Aluminum anti-seize have is great for most applications, but has a tolerance of 1,600 degrees fahrenheit. Nickel-based lubricant fits the bill well with a tolerance of 2,400 degrees fahrenheit. It is a bit more expensive, but will pay off the time you need to remove exhaust components.

OP: Remember to torque everything the OE specs, and recheck after a couple heat cycles (wait until completely cold), especially the exhaust manifold to turbine housing bolts.

 

Bolts snapped looking for a new turbine housing cant find them anywhere.

 

Drill them out. Any machine shop can do it.

 

Yeah have a machine shop drill or zap them out if youre not comfortable drilling tapping etc.

After having done numerous o2 housing/ turbo installs I think the easiest method by a longshot is to remove the vband on the turbo and pop off the turbine housing. Then you can zip off the bolts on a work bench. Aside from it being easier, it allows you to use an impact gun which helps when it comes to not snapping things off.

 

Impact gun is double edge sword. Sometimes, the lack of side load introduced by using a ratch or wrench, and the outright speed keeps the bolt from galling. Other times it galls anyways, and the force of the impact just jams it in tighter. When n sometimes with using a regular ratchet or wrench, you can feel it start to gall, put it back in, apply lube and copious heat, and save yourself...LOL

 

Yeah that can happen and of course you have a lot more feel with a ratchet or wrench so when you feel it bind the second you feel the extra force, you go back in and slowly work it back and forth. And yes lube and/ or heat is where its at.

Sometimes there is nothing you can do and the fastener is going to snap. But I feel like often times the fastener is brittle like on an exhaust component and theyre more prone to side load and they just love to snap.

IDK man not gunna lie anytime I can use air I use it. Maybe its bc Im lazy. But I also think I have better luck with stuck fasteners with it vs a breaker bar due to the impacts. Hell, sometimes I've used my air chisel to shock the fastener to help break the seize. Good times...