hutch959

iTrader: (18)

have you tested all the continuity over all the wires using the one line diagram in the service manual?
as your cranking the car.. .i assume the ignition coils arent gettin the signal to fire.

i would think if you could follow the trouble shooting that a previous poster posted... you should be able to find the issue.

or like Aaron suggested to begin with.. your crank shaft sensor wheel may be backwards.

Evo8Emperor

iTrader: (12)

Ok so Im at the shop going over the CAS. So far ive had good 5v reference to ecu. good power from mfi relay showing battery voltage.

Here come the dousey testing the ground to ecu i have good continuity but showing 12 ohms where manual says i shouldnt see over 2ohms.

Tried to make a jumper from CAS to ecu by back pinning both and see if it made a difference in my resistance but nothing. Any ideas anyone ?

Biggiesacks

so between pin 1 of the cas and pin 40 of C-119 you are getting 12 ohms? The splice location of that connection is at S060. Which is also shared by the Crank sensor and the Intake air temp sensor.

Biggiesacks

just read the procedure i posted that you are commenting on. It should show 2 ohms between pin one and chassis ground, so yah thats a big problem you found. You need to start tracing the harness and try and find out where the break is. As i said before though those other sensors share the same ground through ecu pin 40 so if they are getting good ground and the cas isnt then the issue is before the splice, if they also show 12 ohms its probably after the splice. if you unplug C-119 and measure between ping 40 and pin 1 and get a low resistance then the issue is probably ecu grounding.

Evo8Emperor

iTrader: (12)

Ok yeah so for ****s and giggles I went and tested the iat sensor and coolant temp sensor ground and i get the same readings. Then to through that off I tested a straight one foot ground strap i put on from chassis to engine and for some reason i get the same reading.

So me and my friend were trying to figure out why we getting those readings. We are using a snap-on multimeter. We were asking ourselves if we are getting false readings or what.

Thought about it after i left but i should of tested another car or just a wire alone to see what we got but didnt get the chance.

Evo8Emperor

iTrader: (12)

So to make sure I don't leave this thread without a conclusion like so many other's. lol.

We got it to fire up tonight. She fires right up at the very hint of ignition. lol.

So we had a faulty wire in the ignition circuit. We had 12v on our white/red wire but as soon as you cranked it we lost 12v. So we load tested the wire and it wouldn't hold a light bulb lit. Traced it down to the splic right behind the coils pretty much. Replaced about two and half inches of wire and she's good to go.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. We got it done.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (2)

Well that's good news. Hope you can enjoy the car and the new build now.

RightSaid fred

Ohm meter 101.

Short out test leads and make sure it reads zero ohms.