svt_lightning01

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys i installed my maperformance o2 dump last week. The car runs great it is a stock 8 turbo on e85. I peak 30-31 psi and it tapers to 23-25 psi depending on the weather. I installed the separated steel gasket sent with map. You can start the car and place your hand under the dump pipe and feel the exhaust coming out and it just sounds like an exhaust leak while its getting warm. Its kind of a pain in the @$$ sound lol. I don't think it is effecting the performance or it wouldn't be making/holding that boost on the stocker i wouldn't think. Also since its holding boost up top it makes me think the WG is fine also. The flapper is adjusted down one thread from bottomed out. Would you guys worry about this or just deal with the noise? Im thinking maybe the divider is somehow cracked on my hotside? Possible?

B.J.@ToxicFab

iTrader: (26)

It shouldn't leak. WG flapper may not be "seated" properly or you need to tighten the arm on the WG actuator another turn or 2...

svt_lightning01

iTrader: (1)

thats my problem i don't think the adjustment will allow much more adjustment. What do you mean by seated properly. To check that do i need to remove the WG from the car?

svt_lightning01

iTrader: (1)

May have found the issue. On a cold start I pressed slightly downward on the flapper not the wg arm and the leak stopped. Does that mean I can tighten the wg pre load and cure it or is that the flapper not setting preoperly? I didn't press very hard at all and it stopped

flymx771

iTrader: (33)

You need to set more preload. Stock wg?

svt_lightning01

iTrader: (1)

Yes sir. It's about 1 thread from being adjusted fully in. I guess I will try to tighten it all the way down and see if that stops it

flymx771

iTrader: (33)

You can take off the locknut to get some more room. If that's not enough you could grind a few threads off the top.

svt_lightning01

iTrader: (1)

Nice I didn't think about removing the lock nut? The arm won't turn from the bottom? I don't see how just asking. Thanks for the tip. Someone said use a hanger to get it back on the flapper?

flymx771

iTrader: (33)

Yeah usually use wire to hold the arm closed so you can slide it back on then just cut the wire off. You want about 1/8in of preload to make sure it stays shut.

svt_lightning01

iTrader: (1)

Awesome tomorrow I'll take the nut off, bottom out the eyelit, and try to put it back on which I may struggle with lol

dr_latino999

iTrader: (12)

My trick was adjust preload 4 turns past OEM, then hook arm, hand tighten bottom bolt, hand tighten top bolt. When I tried to go bottom first I almost had an aneurysm fighting it.

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

I will say only run wg boost when you mess with preload for the fact if you don't you may not know what psi your actually gonna be at and things will go boom. My buddy just did that on his talon after not listening to my words of caution so make sure you take the mbc or ebc out of the equasion and if it is ebc boost make ur settings read like there is nothing there so the ecu doesn't try to think there is more boost then there is

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

You guys can just put some air to the WGA and get the flapper to move without having to fight anything

dr_latino999

iTrader: (12)

You know, there is these things called a boost gauge, and if you have made adjustments to your preload it's common sense to reduce M/EBC influence until you see how it affected it.

@boostedwrx I wish I had an air hose in my parking lot.

svt_lightning01

iTrader: (1)

I've decided to pull the radiator take off the lock but and tighten it to the bottom. I figure I'm on e85 it's already at 30 psi so I wouldn't complain if it made 32 that way. I just want the exhaust leak fixed and maybe find some oat boost (fingers crossed)