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New upgrades, no car won't start

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Old Oct 17, 2017, 11:16 AM
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In for the results, I am also thinking you may have pinched something on the pump housing
Old Oct 18, 2017, 11:42 AM
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So I have narrowed down to cyl 1 and 4 not firing as I pulled the connector for the coil while it was running and there was no change. I pulled the connector for 2 and 3 and it died instantly. I swapped the coils and the same thing is happening. Wiring looks good, there is power to the I'll put up the pictures of the plugs here shortly.
Old Oct 18, 2017, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
Photos of plugs?

Oil on no 4 will be a broken piston.


There's obviously more than just one fault, the most serious being oil on no 4 which will make it misfire
Did the piston brake while he was installing the turbo?
Old Oct 18, 2017, 12:10 PM
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here are the pictures of the plugs. they are all new, just installed back in May of this year. I haven't driven the car since June as I was away till September. Came back, installed and now this.




cyl 2 and 3



cyl 1



cyl 4
Old Oct 18, 2017, 12:12 PM
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those are some fouled plugs
Old Oct 18, 2017, 12:16 PM
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Cylinder 2 and 3 even look really really dirty. Toss new plugs in and see what happens. If that doesn't help, new or known good ignition coils.
Old Oct 18, 2017, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Did the piston brake while he was installing the turbo?

Yours did.

First time you took it out and overboosted.
Old Oct 18, 2017, 02:05 PM
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lolwut?
Old Oct 18, 2017, 02:58 PM
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Wow those plugs are done.

Idk why they are gunked up. I know the black is foul from too much fuel.

Put new plugs and not autolites.

Put ngk bpr7es or 8es if on e85.

They are 2.49 each
Old Oct 18, 2017, 03:00 PM
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Those plugs, they're either fouled with oil or with fuel.

The easy way to tell is to shine a light down the hole and you'll see a reflection from a pool of oil sitting in the piston bowl.
New plugs don't fix these problems, the plugs are just a symptom of what's broken.

If it's NOT oil, (it definately is for no 4), edit, AND no 1, then your AFR is all wrong.
But your AFR will no doubt be wrong as well.

But anyway ...you're NOT going to fix it without pulling the head off.
Then dropping the sump.Then pulling all of the pistons to check for damage.

Last edited by RightSaid fred; Oct 18, 2017 at 03:07 PM.
Old Oct 18, 2017, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 4b11slayer
Wow those plugs are done.

Idk why they are gunked up. I know the black is foul from too much fuel.

Put new plugs and not autolites.

Put ngk bpr7es or 8es if on e85.

They are 2.49 each
Stay with 7's. Colder plugs aren't needed until headed north of 750whp on E85.
Old Oct 18, 2017, 03:26 PM
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Your oil leak from the cam seal, that would have been from excess crankcase pressure ...........cam seals don't fail.

At the same time your oil filler cap will be dribbling.

Same cause.

Your dipstick will be trying to pop out too.




But you might be able to fix everything with a catch can........

maybe?.





Here's a really good question.........how much boost have you had it up to so far?
Old Oct 18, 2017, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Stay with 7's. Colder plugs aren't needed until headed north of 750whp on E85.
Im on 8s on e85. No break ups 30 psi. Should i swap to 7s?
Old Oct 19, 2017, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
Your oil leak from the cam seal, that would have been from excess crankcase pressure ...........cam seals don't fail.

At the same time your oil filler cap will be dribbling.

Same cause.

Your dipstick will be trying to pop out too.




But you might be able to fix everything with a catch can........

maybe?.





Here's a really good question.........how much boost have you had it up to so far?

Stock boost until now. And the cam seal failed because it wasn't installed correctly during my recent rebuild. My filler cap and dipstick are fine, no bubbling oil anywhere.
Old Oct 19, 2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 4b11slayer
Im on 8s on e85. No break ups 30 psi. Should i swap to 7s?
Colder plugs will generally cause rougher idle, and decreased fuel economy. You won't notice an issue at WOT. The heat range of a sparkplug is really how fast it dissipates heat. So, higher power setups will go to a colder plug to keep the plug cooler to prevent predet or melting the plug. I wouldn't just put a hotter plug back in without having your tuner do some logs, make sure it doesn't cause any knock. It shouldn't as long your car isn't tuned on the ragged edge, but it's better to be safe.
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