LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

At least you came out ahead then. Looking forward to seeing results in the dyno section

bsbllfit7

I am looking into adjusting cam gears for the 2.4l now and what I'm reading everywhere is use the 4g63 belt made with Kevlar from the Evo 9 or Gates, hks, etc. I need to retard the cam gears roughly 3.75 degrees on both the intake and exhaust gears to get into the wheel house of proper timing. I know it would be best to degree the cams and I may just do that. My question is I have seen various pictures of people doing this and some of them have the cams set 3.75 towards the advanced side (left side) of the cam gear and lining that point up with the notch on the valve cover. This comes out to a half tooth of the belt advancing forward and I just want to make sure this sounds correct. I will definitely update the thread with pictures throughout this entire process but especially when setting base timing.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

For correct timing with the 4g64/Evo head, you basically ignore the timing marks on the outer portion of the adjustable gear, and align the timing mark on the inner portion of the gear with the valve cover marks.

bsbllfit7

I get that but I would want to loosen the outer gear and rotate 3.75* clockwise or counterclockwise and then lock that in and set that as the center point with the timing marks on the valve cover?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The reason is that the adjustment needed falls in between a full tooth of movement on the belt. So you just line up the center portion after getting the outer close.

bsbllfit7

But which direction will the inner mark be to the outer mark. To the right or to the left?

SIM08U

build it anyway, yolo

bsbllfit7

Please refrain from posting pointless unhelpful comments just to boost your post total. Thank you.

bsbllfit7

OK while I have some down time from this build. What all needs to be replaced from the prior engine to the new engine to ensure there is no contamination of the oil. I have a new front case and oil pump, and oil cooler. The turbo feed line has a filter in line so I figured I would clean it now, check it after 5-10 miles, and continually check to make sure there is no contamination. Do I need to get a new oil feed housing? Also, would new lifters and valve cover be necessary? I may just remove the baffles from the valve cover and clean it and then reinstall the baffles to be safe. There was no particulates in the head when it was removed.