Timf91

So I'm in the middle of changing a timing belt on my evo 8. Some of the thread I read said that you rotate the tensioner pulley until the gernade pin freely moves. I also seen another source say the torque setting for it is between 31-38 in lbs. If I do it either way the pin does not come "lose " and I even torqued so much yesterday I snapped a pin on my special tool. I am rotating the pulley counter clockwise as well. It is also a oem tensioner and tensioner pulley.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

You're probably adding too much tension with the pulley, and compressing the tensioner. Most cars I've done, the holes on the tensioner pull are point at about 4-5 O'clock.

Timf91

Sorry i just realized I accdiently put this in evo x motor group (admins please move )

Timf91

that's about the ball park or where mine was to. I am just worried about under/over tensioning everything.

Timf91

So I found the spot where the pin is lose. But when I went to torque the crank bolt my crank jumped timing a few teeth. Is the tensioner not tight enough?

Siege

iTrader: (2)

Did you leave the pin in the hydraulic tensioner when you rotated the engine?

Timf91

no I pulled the pin after setting it, let it sit for 20 min came out and cranked the motor by hand and everthing lined up and I was still able to slide the pin in and out fine. When i went to torque the crank bolt I put the cam gear lock back in and went 60-90-120 and was 120 it skipped the tooth.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Crank is one or two teeth off. It happens when you have the slack in the belt between the oil pump and crank instead of between the crank and intake cam when you tighten the tension

barneyb

I created a tool, a thick steel strap, I've had it since my DSM days, that bolts to two holes on the crank pulley and then on my Evo engine, fastens to one of the accessory belt tensioner mounting holes. This locks everything in places when R&R the crank bolt. So, remove the damper, apply the tool, and buzz off the bolt.