Oil pressure regulator for Ball bearing turbochargers
Jun 22, 2018, 03:22 PM
#1
Oil pressure regulator for Ball bearing turbochargers
These are just my thoughts on these subjects on an internet forum.
Turbosmart released this not too long ago.
http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Prod...lator-OPR-T40/
It regulates the oil pressure going to the CHRA. Some engines make alot of oil pressure and can send excessive amounts of oil to the turbo. This can lead to smoke issues, oily charge pipes etc . Crank case pressure can also be a factor though. Even 1 psi crankcase pressure can make the turbo not drain well. A built or tired engine is going to create more crank case pressure. Ringseal, different piston material etc. Its important to vent it correctly or address the issues. A spring on the dip stick is a bandaid on a larger problem. PCV and a sealed system for a street car is another semi related topic.
The turbosmart regulator doesn't eliminate the need for a restrictor on some turbo's but it is helpful to prevent too much pressure going to the turbo on start up and high rpm. The 4g63 makes a ton of pressure when hot and even more when cold. Remove the balance shafts and oil squirters and it goes even higher. Alot of people move to a thick 20-50w oil and it increases oil pressure even more. A restrictor is designed to limit the oil pressure and its generally matched for hot oil and full rpm. Some people get smoking after startup, its possible that the oil pressure going to the turbo is high and leading to oil having no where to go but out of the turbocharger.
Some history about my build. My engine is built with a stock oil pump but does have the oil bypass ported slightly.This will lower oil pressure. Startup oil pressure (5-40W) measured at the oil filter housing went from 110-120+psi @1300 to 80-90psi @1300. WOT oil pressure went from 115-125psi to 90-95psi . Going off the 10psi per 1000rpm rule its in the ball park for my 8000rpm engine( small turbo/back pressure limited )
Before I ported the bypass slightly I had well over 35 psi going to my turbocharger on startup even with a .030 restrictor. Once the oil was 160* I had 2psi at idle and 16-17psi at full rpm. After installing the Turbosmart regulator ( with the existing .030 restrictor) oil pressure on cold startup went to 25psi . Warm numbers were 1-2psi at idle and 15-16psi at WOT. This was on an old school FP Red. A different turbocharger or new CHRA may have less or more of a restriction internally (or a restrictor) so its important to test what pressure you have as well as what the manufacturer recommends.
In my case, startup pressure was reduced alot and the hot pressures were close to the same.
It may also be possible to adjust or modify the spring inside the regulator for different results. At your own risk of course.
Install is easy once you source the correct lines, and requires returning the oil to the engine. I chose the valve cover for my return line.
Turbosmart released this not too long ago.
http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Prod...lator-OPR-T40/
It regulates the oil pressure going to the CHRA. Some engines make alot of oil pressure and can send excessive amounts of oil to the turbo. This can lead to smoke issues, oily charge pipes etc . Crank case pressure can also be a factor though. Even 1 psi crankcase pressure can make the turbo not drain well. A built or tired engine is going to create more crank case pressure. Ringseal, different piston material etc. Its important to vent it correctly or address the issues. A spring on the dip stick is a bandaid on a larger problem. PCV and a sealed system for a street car is another semi related topic.
The turbosmart regulator doesn't eliminate the need for a restrictor on some turbo's but it is helpful to prevent too much pressure going to the turbo on start up and high rpm. The 4g63 makes a ton of pressure when hot and even more when cold. Remove the balance shafts and oil squirters and it goes even higher. Alot of people move to a thick 20-50w oil and it increases oil pressure even more. A restrictor is designed to limit the oil pressure and its generally matched for hot oil and full rpm. Some people get smoking after startup, its possible that the oil pressure going to the turbo is high and leading to oil having no where to go but out of the turbocharger.
Some history about my build. My engine is built with a stock oil pump but does have the oil bypass ported slightly.This will lower oil pressure. Startup oil pressure (5-40W) measured at the oil filter housing went from 110-120+psi @1300 to 80-90psi @1300. WOT oil pressure went from 115-125psi to 90-95psi . Going off the 10psi per 1000rpm rule its in the ball park for my 8000rpm engine( small turbo/back pressure limited )
Before I ported the bypass slightly I had well over 35 psi going to my turbocharger on startup even with a .030 restrictor. Once the oil was 160* I had 2psi at idle and 16-17psi at full rpm. After installing the Turbosmart regulator ( with the existing .030 restrictor) oil pressure on cold startup went to 25psi . Warm numbers were 1-2psi at idle and 15-16psi at WOT. This was on an old school FP Red. A different turbocharger or new CHRA may have less or more of a restriction internally (or a restrictor) so its important to test what pressure you have as well as what the manufacturer recommends.
In my case, startup pressure was reduced alot and the hot pressures were close to the same.
It may also be possible to adjust or modify the spring inside the regulator for different results. At your own risk of course.
Install is easy once you source the correct lines, and requires returning the oil to the engine. I chose the valve cover for my return line.
Last edited by Abacus; Jun 22, 2018 at 03:34 PM.
The following 6 users liked this post by Abacus:
2006EvoIXer (Jun 22, 2018),
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and 1 others liked this post.
Aug 2, 2018, 09:23 AM
#2
Awesome, Since this is twice as much as FP's 0.020 restrictor I might try that first and see about rigging up a gauge to compare to your numbers.
I put my boost gauge on my crankcase and never saw positive pressure, always 0psi when I was getting the smoking at low rpm and part throttle cruising. Smoke wasn't noticeable at WOT and the gauge showed vacuum (iirc -0.7psi) in the crankcase.
Hopefully between this regulator or the 0.020 restrictor I will find a fix for it. If not I'll have to sell the red and probably just put the ix turbo back on or get a hta71 and be done with it.
I put my boost gauge on my crankcase and never saw positive pressure, always 0psi when I was getting the smoking at low rpm and part throttle cruising. Smoke wasn't noticeable at WOT and the gauge showed vacuum (iirc -0.7psi) in the crankcase.
Hopefully between this regulator or the 0.020 restrictor I will find a fix for it. If not I'll have to sell the red and probably just put the ix turbo back on or get a hta71 and be done with it.
Aug 2, 2018, 10:22 AM
#3
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Always good tech from you, Tim. I look forward to seeing what my setup does with deleted shafts and squirters, kiggly HLA, proper bearing clearance for 50wt oil, .020" restrictor to turbo, and the ER oil pump gear.
Aug 3, 2018, 01:03 AM
#4
Evolving Member
What's then the pressure like then with that .020" restrictor? Depending on oil viscosity?
I also have the FB Black MHI turbo with the black restricton on my fully built 2.3 stroker, thinking of getting the purple .020" restrictor
I also have the FB Black MHI turbo with the black restricton on my fully built 2.3 stroker, thinking of getting the purple .020" restrictor
Aug 3, 2018, 07:52 AM
#5
Thanks Sean , Your build is going to be epic.
XSivPSI, Even 1 psi of crankcase pressure at the oil pan /return line can cause the oil to not drain. Measuring at the valve cover is the end of the line and may not represent exactly whats happening in the oil pan. A functioning PCV is also a good idea if you didn't have one before. I would put an oil pressure gauge on the oil feed line and get some data . If you're startup oil pressure feeding the turbo is higher then when the oil is warm /at peak rpm the regulator is a good idea if you are getting oil issues shortly after startup. Excessive oil can pool in the compressor housing as the engine is warming up then be pushed thru the system on the first few runs.
Every setup is different, its important to test what you have . IIRC the new Xona chra gets an update to run the .020.
XSivPSI, Even 1 psi of crankcase pressure at the oil pan /return line can cause the oil to not drain. Measuring at the valve cover is the end of the line and may not represent exactly whats happening in the oil pan. A functioning PCV is also a good idea if you didn't have one before. I would put an oil pressure gauge on the oil feed line and get some data . If you're startup oil pressure feeding the turbo is higher then when the oil is warm /at peak rpm the regulator is a good idea if you are getting oil issues shortly after startup. Excessive oil can pool in the compressor housing as the engine is warming up then be pushed thru the system on the first few runs.
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iD33 (Jan 17, 2022)
Aug 10, 2018, 12:21 AM
#6
Evolving Member
I have emailed to Michael @FP just to confirm but haven't got a replay yet.
But I will do a adapter between the restrictor and turbo to see what pressure turbo is getting.
But I will do a adapter between the restrictor and turbo to see what pressure turbo is getting.
Aug 13, 2018, 02:42 PM
#7
These are just my thoughts on these subjects on an internet forum.
Turbosmart released this not too long ago.
http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Prod...lator-OPR-T40/
Turbosmart released this not too long ago.
http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Prod...lator-OPR-T40/
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Aug 14, 2018, 01:00 PM
#9
^ Thanks
I can't tell where you have the drain going, but I am going to try and mount in that general area as well and use the -6AN block fitting from STM (balance shaft inspection hole) to drain back the oil. I'll post some pics when I get it installed.
I can't tell where you have the drain going, but I am going to try and mount in that general area as well and use the -6AN block fitting from STM (balance shaft inspection hole) to drain back the oil. I'll post some pics when I get it installed.
Aug 14, 2018, 02:04 PM
#10
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The drain looks like it going into the valve cover right under the ignition cover.
Aug 14, 2018, 07:29 PM
#11
Sean is correct. The return line is going back to the valve cover. Its pressurized so it doesn't have to gravity drain. The turbosmart regulator is fed from the head. It sends the reduced pressure to the restrictor that has a gauge mounted to it, then goes to the turbo.
Aug 15, 2018, 05:27 AM
#12
Been doing a custom fuel pump setup on my GTR with a Hellcat 525 pump and a standard 340lph pump as well as converting it to Flex Fuel so splitting time between the two cars currently.
Feb 9, 2019, 04:37 PM
#15
Hers from today the purple restrictor from FP I have put in. The pressure is around 6-10psi
https://youtu.be/J-R6ynR3t2g
https://youtu.be/J-R6ynR3t2g
What were your issues before?