RussianEVO

Hey guys, new here, but have been on forums without an account for couple years now. I have a 2003 EVO 8

Have an ACT clutch single disc that was changed at 137k miles. I now have 150k miles and for some reason my clutch engagement point has changed.

before change 0%|————/————|100%
clutch engag change 0%|———————/—|100%

is this a symptom of a worn clutch? Or could it be my slave or master cylinder? Car kinda feels like it always has the hand brake on too which is weird.

Thanks
RussianEVO

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Im not sure if what your picture is showing is supposed to signify that the engagement point has moved up or down; Im reading it as up, as in right before the clutch pedal is fully released its then grabbing.

Regardless, if your clutch was changed and the shop or whoever did the service did not adjust the clutch after, it should be readjusted. Doesn't sound like anything is broken so just a matter of readjusting the pedal. Crawl under and there is a jam nut and a threaded rod with flats cut into it. I believe the rod is a 6mm and the nut is a 10mm. You'll get the hang of it after playing around with it some.. Good luck!

RussianEVO

thanks for the reply! Yes the engagement point or so “biting point” of the clutch has gone significantly up around 90% of full let go. Will try to adjust today thank you

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

OK, yeah that makes sense, no worries adjusting the engagement point will fix your issue. Its very easy just annoying bc you have to do it on your back and upside down, lol!

Take a look here there is some additional info and some pictures that may be helpful. In your case you should be shortening the rod to move the engagement point back down some.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...djustment.html

RussianEVO

awesome thank you so much!

Name User

iTrader: (1)

My engagement point changes with every few launches, it's been in that 90% zone like you describe for years though. I think your illustration is very accurate. Sometimes I adjust the pedal up, sometimes I adjust it down. I go back and forth because I either get shift lockout or sometimes the engagement point feels like it's at 110% so my foot is completely off the pedal and it just kinda goes.

Had a new ACT clutch put in, same **** really, minor temporary improvement. I don't know what it is. Some people say the pedal assembly itself fails after a while.

RussianEVO

wow yes exactly what is happening to me! It happened after I WOT in 2nd-3rd and I was like wtf??? I do not understand lol I suppose I’ll have to adjust it but if it’s arm 90% would we be adjust it more out or more in? Still a little confused on that part

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

As mentioned earlier the clutch rod adjustment is a good fix for this. If that does not fix it, try bleeding the clutch to see if any air got inside the line.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

I forgot to add, the actual engagement point is ideally 66% +- 10% of the way up, but it varies from clutch to clutch. You want it setup so that when you push the clutch in, it fully disengages and you can shift at high RPM, but at the same time, you don't want it so high that the clutch pedal is always applying a bit of pressure on the clutch fork. This can prematurely wear out the clutch.

RussianEVO

i think that’s what’s happening my clutch isn’t fully disengaging, which is why it all of a sudden feels like I’m driving with the handbrake on.. so initially I need to move this forward then correct?

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Correct, you need to screw the rod further into the clutch pedal assembly, which would essentially give you more play at the top in resting position and locate your engagement point down closer to the firewall. Hopefully the clutch does not slip after that.

RussianEVO

awesome! Thanks for the clarification going to try this now, is there any way I can move this blue sensor out of the way before I do this? What does this thing do anyway lol

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

You got it. You can carefully bend it out of the way and then bend it back when you are done adjusting the lock nut and rod. It's the clutch start kill switch used so that you don't accidentally start the car in gear. If you disconnect that switch at the back and then turn the key, it will make your car start even if it is in gear (not recommended unless you have a remote start system with custom neutral safety switch). I never understood why people disconnect it all together, but I have had to do it before in emergency cases where my engine died and I needed to ride the starter motor in first gear to the side of the road.

RussianEVO

so I bent it out of the way and loosen’d the nut on the back of the rod, now my goal is to twist the push rod a couple of turns in not out right? Since my clutch is engaging at 90% of letgo? Sorry man huge noob here lol

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Correct, You want to screw it into clutch pedal more to lower the engagement point. Also you don't have to bend the switch mount that much Just enough to make room for a 12mm wrench. After you adjust it, go for a test drive to see what it did to your clutch engagement and it will click really fast for you. From there you can make adjustments to how you like it. Make sure when you bend the switch mount back to place that the little white button on the switch comes in contact with the rubber bumper on the back side of the clutch pedal.

After this, we will know for sure if your clutch is worn out or if it was the engagement point. Remember that air in the clutch line will NEVER cause your clutch to slip. It will only cause it to not disengage completely or have erratic clutch engagement positions