Jonno99

Ok guys, here we are. finally tripped down ready to take to the engine shop.

I think I have found a reasonable one, the owners son works there and has an Evo parked in the workshop and I dropped in to talk pulling the motor down.

Now here's the thing, the owner said they can do anything I want and source the bits if I wanted. He also said however I bring it, it will be returned the same way even if it is all loosely bolted together as long as all the parts are there, he can reassemble and have it timed and the head back on. So now I am thinking maybe I have gone to far and should just sit the head back on and oil pump and pulleys and give the whole lot to him to give it back to me assembled. I don't know maybe I have lost a bit of confidence in reassembling it. My idea is for a full rebuild, rods, pistons, same crank, bored to 85.5, bearings, new studs, pully kit and bearings and the head gets S2s with springs and retainers and a reseat.

So do you guys think I should stick with my original plan and give him the stripped block and head separated, then I reassemble or attempt just to put it all back with pulleys and oil pump and give it all to him as one piece, so he can do the whole reassemble for me?

Fox_IX

Stick with your original plan. It looks daunting at first, but it's a really simple process. Just follow the FSM and you'll have a good time! It's definitely worth doing, even if for nothing more than the experience.
Plus that way there's less chance of things getting lost. Not saying it'll happen, but it certainly does happen with some shops.

hutch959

iTrader: (18)

i like to receive the long block back from a builder... just because im no engine builder... and i trust them more than me to put it all together correctly.
typically labor to put the head, tighten everything down and get the timing dialed in is not that much.
really up to you with what you are comfortable with.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Starting with a short block and putting it together is actually very easy. I've done it a dozen times and if I can do it, anyone can.
I suggest a copy of the FSM, two really good torque wrenches (one for lighter values, one for the big stuff), and some version of timing belt tools to hold the can gears still and adjust the tensioner pulley.
Other than that, take your time and it should be a lot of fun.
Good luck!

Jonno99

ok bro you have picked me up again, I've got the torque wrenches and just need the timing tools, my original strategy was to save money, so I am going to go for it. Hopefully it will be a good experience

kaj

iTrader: (60)

It's actually a lot of fun and quite therapeutic for me. I take a solid two or three days to do everything, so I can enjoy ordering pizza, having drinks, etc.

lonestarr20

Do it.
If I can do it, you can do it...
All you need are basic hand tools, and a good 3/8 drive torque wrench, except for the flywheel then you'll need a 1/2 drive tw.
It is therapeutic

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

X3... build it. It's a very good learning experience. It's honestly not hard to do either.

Jonno99

Brother's I have one more question

regarding head studs and engine crank stud bolts, I think you call them that

What should I be asking the engine builder to install, I mean I want ARP but what model and type???, I don't want head lift and I want to get stronger setup for the crank. Looking at 400 hp but I don't mind spending more for a good setup done once and done right.

2006EvoIXer

iTrader: (1)

For 400whp, regular ARP studs all around is fine. I got a decent discount for my L19 headstuds, but I didn't need it since I had the basic ARP studs. You won't lift your head at 400whp.

When installing your head, think twice before doing anything. Make sure you pay attention to any pistons at TDC to avoid pushing valves open in those cylinders (when installing cams). For me, I turn crank to TDC (#1 & #4 pistons up), then reverse 1/4 turn (90°) to set all 4 pistons evenly at a little under half way. Then install head and cams to timing marks (cam dowels at 12 o'clock position). Then rotate crank to TDC and put timing belt on.

You will enjoy asembly. Take your time and keep everything clean. Use lint-free towels and nothing that falls apart on your engine. Keep us posted along the way and people will chime in with good advice.

Jonno99

couple of things have come up guys, just want to check in, just about to take it to my shop to get done yeh i know slow but I had a long convo with the builder about the below

Regarding the balance shaft delete, he knows about the GSC kit but is saying that his preferred method is to turn down the existing front balancer shaft into a rod and keep it in place, this way its a stronger setup with both ends kept in place instead of the little stubby, he will do this for free but says its up to me if I want to pay for the stubby. He said he does the same for the back one too or can seal it. What do you guys think, I was ready to get the GSC one front and back but think this might be better.

Also I was all set to order L19 main studs on the existing crank, but he said for 400hp its a waste of money and just get the the ARP2000s What do you guys think?

Another thing I asked for a Torque plate but he said for the Evo block he has never had an issue and never used a torque plate unless special requested, should I not worry or insist?

thanks guys

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Leave the rear shaft in, don't attach the belt. Use either for the front but free always = win.
L19 studs are overkill for 99% of the builds I see them on. Stock head bolts are fine at 400whp, so will standard ARPs.
Good luck!

Jonno99

Thanks, what do you think about the torque plate?

lonestarr20

please use a torque plate
it is necessary..

Fox_IX

Definitely use a torque plate. You can rent one if you don't want to buy it.