I was reading specs and it’s heavy as heavy as 100mm which I’ve seen crack alot

should I Just buy a k1?

seen Manley billet crack too

i want 850-900 whp read that the procco evo and English racing evo both use Eagle but at 88mm

 

My understanding with the cracking is because of mains journal to big end journal overlap.
88mm has the most.
100mm has the least.

More overlap means it's stronger.

 

I wouldn't necessarily exclude a crank due to weight. Eagle cranks are good quality. The a crank should be balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly prior to install anyway and the likelihood of cracking cranks could also have to do with heat, higher RPM, rod ratio, unique harmonics (torsional and axial vibration caused by ALL the forces imposed on the crank) , and the tune. If your tuner doesn't know where MBT is and ignites the fuel mixture at the wrong time, you will literally be hammering your crank journals instead of making power. By going with a 94mm crank, you will already be making a better choice on rod ratio than us 2.3 guys.

 

Michael Koval in Australia said in a video he had run a couple of Manley Billets and they cracked. He then changed to Eagle and said he’d been problem free ever since. I believe he runs 94mm throw.

I normally believe in the buy cheap buy twice ethos but apparently buying an Eagle crank over a Manley is an exception to that rule.

 

Important to note Koval ran a few 100mm engines past 700/800hp. Its leverage. Things can only take so much. There are also others that will rattle an engine and then blame parts.

I also want to state that Manley changed their crank design to favor strength instead of oiling in 2020. I'm running a custom 94mm billet crank similar to the older manley style. There are only a few foundries where these parts come from.. Its from 2007.

I'm also running a Billet 94mm in the other car at 530tq (its like a hammer down low, which is harder on things) Older style manley.

If it were me, I'd run a billet 94mm crank to 1200hp or so. Finding the limit on a forged crank could get expensive.

 

I realize I follow Abacus around in responses, but I'm pretty sure outside of cams, we have the same engine. My 94mm billet has a smidge more torque and I've been flogging it for 8 years / 60k miles now. So I haven't found the limit yet, but as always, user experience may vary.

 

English Racing runs the Eagle forged 88mm crank to 11,000rpm and 1500whp in their Drag 8. I wouldn't push the 94mm that hard due to less pin overlap, but 1000-1100 would be fine. I would not hesitate to run it 900whp. Our shop car has a 100mm forged eagle in it that has been fine for over 5yrs at 860whp.

 

ETS 2.1 is amazing ! Are they really using the 94 and 156 rods ? 94 mm eagle ? Wow

 

iirc this was a k1 I asked Lucas himself

 

It was making north of 1300+ and that particular pass had a lot of wheelhop. Loading/unloading the drivetrain is real hard on stuff. Things can only take so much, nothing is bulletproof.

There are a few roadrace guys that broke OEM 88mm cranks at 500-600hp. Big tires, upgraded drivetrain, spinning over uneven surfaces, it all adds up.

 

They run an 88mm in the drag Evo.

Lucas also thinks it was a fluke/random failure. Which is always a possibility at the level that engine is operated at.

Also, like Abacus said, that pass was a bit a "rough"

 

Most of the aftermarket cranks that crack which aren't being subject to crazy power are due to stress risers on the journals not being removed before the engine is assembled, namely the radius (or lack thereof) on the journals for the rods. And as others have said, the pin overlap between the rods and mains has a pretty decent influence on the crank's strength.


I talked with Manly at PRI in 2020 and they said they were going to make changes but I've yet to see any updated parts. Did they change to cross drilled oil passages like Eagle and the OE cranks use? Do you have any pictures of the updated cranks?