I really do like the cams, the car runs cooler as in water temp and egt and it runs and sounds great. I can feel the whp gain but I still haven't tuned for them completely yet though because I am still trying different settings but they keep getting better and better.

I am sure the install is correct as well but I just wanted to ease my mind, you know me I don't like unanswered questions in my mind. But if both of us are sure I am doing my best to put it rest. This weekend will be the test to see if we were on fumes that day or not.

 

I think you will be ok..... so you can feel a big dif. with the cams......I'm getting ready to do my cams tomorrow can you tell me the are the tourq spec....

 

You can feel a difference in how the car pulls for sure. I believe it is a great all around mod to benifit everything. The car runs cooler, smoother and more power now and later on after I do my turbo upgrade.


Torque specs. ( This is what I used and it is what evomoto states as well.)

Make sure to note IN-LBS .vs FT-LBS.
Spark plugs 18 ft-lbs
Coil pack bolts: 89 in-lbs
Cam angle sensor housing bolts: 124 in-lbs
Cam angle sensor cover bolts: 89 in-lbs
Cam angle sensor trigger bolt: 16 ft-lbs
Cam bearing caps: 14 or 15 ft-lbs (I used 14.5 ft-lbs
Cam gear bolts: 65 ft-lbs
Cam gear cover: 98 in-lbs
Bolts that hold the main harness to the top/back of the valve cover: 98 in-lbs
Bolts holding the O2 harness bracket to the valve cover: 93 in-lbs
Valve cover bolts: 31 in-lbs
Just about all other brackets connected to the valve cover: 98 in-lbs


EvoMoto's write up on the install that I used for a guide just so I didn't miss anything.


http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?techID=18

 

Did you install CAM Gears also? How did you do that without having to retime the engine?

Thanks

 

All I had to do is first set the crank and stock cam gears to TDC and they all have marks on them to measure this. Be aware the 4g63 tends to show the crank mark a little bit retarted if the cam gears are dead on TDC so a hair behind the T on the crank mark. After this I zip tied the belt to the stock cam gears so it would not slip off and then took the tension out of the belt with the tensioner tool. When I took the gears off I kept the slack pulled out of the belt by putting a zip tie in the center of the two gears pulling on the belt to hold the slack out of the belt while I installed the cams, do not move the belt or the cams gears any more than you have too. I zip tied them to the AC line right next to them. Next after the cams were installed I made sure the stock gears would go back on so the cams themselves would be set at TDC by measuring with the valve cover back on then I Put a TDC mark on the actual belt so I had somthing to measure up with when I pulled the gear off. I did this with silicon and I used measurement mark on the stock cam gear, it will be pointing up. So I pulled one gear off at a time making sure that I put the TDC mark on my new gear to the mark on the belt then I fitted the gear up to the cam put on the cam gear bolt and did the next gear the same way. Put a TDC mark on the belt from the old gear pulled it off and installed the new measured up with the TDC mark on the belt. Then with both new cam gears in place I laid the valve cover on again and made sure the TDC mark on the crank and TDC marks on both cam gears were in place. As I did this I would cut and then rezip tie the belt to the gears so nothing had a chance to slip. Again once both gears were back on I looked at the crank mark to make sure it didn't move and that it was still on TDC and then checked both marks on the CamGears to make sure they showed on TDC with with valve cover marks and the marks that I placed on the belt. After all of this was confirmed I then took the slack out of the belt with me tensioner tool and ofcourse with everything tight. I then turned the crank several times with the spark plugs loose to make it easier until the I seen the marks that I put on the timing belt come up top. At that point I then turned the crank to TDC and measured the crank and camgear TDC marks to make sure everything was still in time and to make sure the belt didn't walk and also to make sure it took the slack out of it as well. At this TDC Check the crank mark was closer than stock to the T on the crank measurement, this is normal so it moved a hair closer to the T. If your measurement went from behind the T to infront you are off time most likey so you will need to remeasure if so. I then removed my silicone marks off the belt and torqued everything down. If you buy gears check them as well to be sure the adjustment bolts are tight. After this you can button it up and recheck everything to continue. The main point is take your time and look at things more than once before you put it back together. Take your time and be certian that you did it right and you will have no issues.

This is the method I used. I took my time and it worked out very will.

Hope it helps.

 

Awesome thread. Thanks so much for all the information!