HELP! Big oil leak and car doesn't want to start...
 

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first off you need to make sure you can turn the motor over by hand...and then you can proceed with with repair. why it wont start could be...motor locked, starter, battery, etc....oil leak can be repaired once you get the car started and then you can clean off engine very good with brakekleen and start it and look for where it leaks. try that first...

1. Try and turn the motor over by hand. If it turns at least you know its not siezed
2. Pull the dipstick. Does the oil look cloudy or milky. May have lifted the head and blown the head gasket

did you overrev?? white smoke can mean coolant, check the head gasket.

And def dont try and start it without putting more oil back in it!!

i had the oil line on the stock turbo crack once and spray oil everywhere. make sure the oil line is in good shape.

You my sir, may have spun a bearing... that could be why you cant get the motor to turn over... more than likely caused by oil starvation...

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2. Yea see if you can physically turn it with a ratchet. It will turn over pretty easy with our lower compression engines

Hey guys, so today I decided to take out the spark plugs to look at them. cylinder 1,3,4 were good, except 2....:( .....the spark plug had oil all over the end of it, which I assume the piston ring failed and caused oil to shoot up and splatter all over the spark plug...or is it something else? All I know is that the spark plug had oil over it and a couple of buddies told me that mean the motors done with...true?

I'm gonna try to turn the motor later on when I get the 1/2" ratchet just to see if it's locked or not, but is it blown anyway?
thanks

Ouch.... if i were you, I'd try to get my hands on a compression tester and see what happens. Even if you can turn the motor by hand, you may have still had serious damage to the motor.

Jerry

that sux

Don't you tune people's cars too? :shocker: Sounds like a headgasket.

Mods?

First things first, do as mentioned and see if the motor will turn by the ratchet. You can go through the rubber stopper in the wheel well with a 1/2" extension or I think a 22mm socket - or you can take the upper timing cover off and use a 17mm box wrench or ratchet on the cam bolt (turn from the exhaust side).

If it turns, then clean the oil from you starter and see if you can get it to crank (if you still have the exhaust manifold off, just disconnect the crank angle sensor and camshaft position sensor, and verify you can bump the car over (plug the banjo hole if you can, or you'll be leaking oil from there). Then do the compression check. The numbers will be on the low side across the board with a cold engine, but you are looking for deltas here. Limit is 14psi delta - low is 136psi I think. If the #2 is low on delta or limit, then put a cap full of motor oil down the spark plug hole on #2 and recheck the reading. If the number goes up, the problem is rings (more than likely). If the number stays low, it is in the valves. Of course a leakdown test will show you this directly. I got mine from Summit Racing for under $100. If you put the timing marks on the cams at TDC, then do the leakdown test, and you hear air coming strongly out the valve cover breather on the tranny side, you have a ring problem. Thus, go ahead and start the teardown. Even if you don't see any physical damage to the rings or piston walls, trust the tests above - you will be looking at boring the cylinders out 0.020" and getting new pistons rings at minimum. From what you've said above, that amount of smoke - I would say you will find damage.

I just rebuilt mine for a simlar reason, and by doing it myself, I saved the $1500-$1700 labor cost. Saving that $ can allow you to go with some nice forged internals.

PM me if you have any questions - as I just completed this project 2 weeks ago.

Ok, so I tried to turn the motor, and no luck....I've turned the motor plenty of times in the past, and I tried like hell, and no luck...so my friend is coming over tomorrow to pull of the head with me, and we're gonna look at the pistons and the walls....Also, my buddy is selling stock evo 8 rods, pistons, and rings, already assembled for 80 bucks, so I don't know if I can pass that deal up against $1000 for just the forged internals...What do you guys think?

And my mods are full bolt ons, stock turbo, no meth....and yes, I tune a lot of Evo's in my area and everyone is happy as hell with the tune, and my car has been running with this tune for about a year now, and my car pulled great...I doubt it's the tune, it's just some freak accident, I don't know to be honest..