Changed timing belt and now car won't start
 

Hi guys, I'm looking for a little help figuring out why my car won't start. A couple weeks ago I broke my timing belt so I had the head rebuilt and obviously put a new timing belt on it. Now I'm trying to start it and it won't start.

Is it possible that my cam sensor is 180 degrees off? There's really not that many wire connectors to get the head off, and I'm pretty sure everything is hooked back up. The timing is right, it cranks over, but no start.

Also, the battery runs out of juice really fast when I'm cranking it, which makes me think there could be a short. I'm having my battery tested right now, so hopefully thats all it is, but I doubt that.

Any input would be much appreciated.

Bump

Thanks for the bump.

I scanned the ECU and it says P0335 Crank Position Sensor A. I'm gonna be really bummed if I have to get back in there and change that sensor. What are your guy's experiences with this code.

Thanks.

It's not unusual for the crank angle sensor to be damaged when a timing belt breaks. That could easily be the problem, assuming you are sure that you reconnected the crank angle sensor (connector is below the back left corner of the valve cover).

-Paul

Make sure the firing order is in tact just for shizzts

I'm curious. How many miles was on that belt that broke? How did you break your belt?

The belt had about 40k on it, and I was just driving down the freeway. It really shocked me.

The sensor is definitely plugged back in

As for the CAS being damaged, yeah I totally should have thought of that. The CAS plate that spins around with the crank was bent because the belt got jammed in there, and I bet it damaged the sensor when it did that. Is there any way to tell if the sensor is bad without taking it all apart? Oh well, I guess I get to pull the left side of the motor apart again. Thats what I get for not trying to start it with the timing cover still off.

Thanks for your input guys.

I have another question. If my cam sensor was 180 degrees off would it throw the same code? I just don't want to tear the left side of the motor apart and find out everything in there was fine.

Would it hurt to try spinning 180 degrees and starting?

I don't mind doing that, but I'd like to avoid taking the valve cover off if I can. I figured someone on here would know if P0335 is the code that pops up when the Cam sensor is off.

I'm willing to be that my Crank sensor is bad though. I'm gonna start tearing it down in a little bit. I'll let everyone know what it ends up being. Thanks.

Make sure you look at the crank sprocket as well make sure it has all the correct markings and what not and also the plate thats behind the sprocket. thats what give a signal to the CAS. if its missing a tooth the car will not start, so make sure its not bent like you said, that might be your problem

The sensor was cracked. I ordered a new one, so hopefully thats it. I'll keep you guys updated.

So I put the new crank sensor in and the car starts right up. The problem is it idles like crap. Above 1,200 rpm it smooths out and sounds fine, but it just won't idle. This makes me think that it isn't a timing issue because it would run rough all the time. I've checked for vacuum lines not being connected, but I cannot find any. I'm wondering if either the MAF sensor is bad, because its been sitting in my garage for 2 years, or the idle control motor is bad.

Any ideas?

UPDATE:

So I put the new crank sensor in and the car starts right up. The problem is it idles like crap. Above 1,200 rpm it smooths out and sounds fine, but it just won't idle. This makes me think that it isn't a timing issue because it would run rough all the time. I've checked for vacuum lines not being connected, but I cannot find any. I'm wondering if either the MAF sensor is bad, because its been sitting in my garage for 2 years, or the idle control motor is bad.

Any ideas?

How sure are you that the timing isn't off 1 tooth?