OK I'm finally fed up..
 

Had my car tuned 3 years ago(2006) this june for most of the boltons and alcohol by Turbo trix. One year goes by with no complaints and then suddenly one morning my car won't idle. Not sure why but the car runs fine once it's warm. No hesitation or anything for that matter. I deal with it and have to keep my foot on the gas until the car warms up.

2 years go by and I'm starting to get fed up with it. I want a car that will start on its own without any assistance. So, I looked on the forums for threads that people have responded to, looking for reasons a car would not idle. The big hit was because the meth or alchy was burning out the Idle Air Control Valve. I figured I had found the problem. Instead of going to mitsubishi to spend almost $500, I found one on the much cheaper side to replace it.

So, I replaced my 82,000 mile one with a 10,000 mile one and go to crank it up, same exact sh*t. Nothing different at all. I disconnected battery to see if it may work better, nothing. Now, keep in mind that I have replaced the spark plugs and have no boost leaks, played with the idle screw, and have been professionally tuned afterwards as well. No one has been able to help me.

Looking for any additional help or insight people can give me. I know I may have to bite the bullet and bring it to a shop to diagnose it but I'd rather try all the alternatives until they are all used. Somebody must have had the same problem, I'm hoping.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

try swapping out your MAF with a good one? see if thats the prob

The BISS should never be adjusted, you'll need to have that calibrated. What Intake are you using?

I haven't done that. I'll have to see if I can borrow one. Would that affect my start up and nothing else?

Just a generic cone filter that was bought at turbo trix. Its attached to the stock intake pipe. I've even swapped it with a perrin filter to see..

Is it a oil cone filter (K&N)? Have you tried cleaning the MAF with CRC MAF Cleaner? And like I said, you need to have the BISS screw recalibrated. A good Tuner should be able to do this is five or ten minutes.

Do you have a laptop and evoscan? I would look to see if the problem only occurs in open loop and then is fixed once the car switches to closed loop.

FIRST.....Check for boost leaks.

Sounds stupid I know - but its cheap and easy to roll out the variable first.

You can also look at your MAF values with evoscan

Check your fuel trims...

Maf looked ok but no I haven't tried cleaning it besides cleaning the usual residue. It looked in good shape. I may need to pay a visit to Al or ICS to see if they can help me

And yes it's a cone fliter.

Boost leak test was done a while back, no significant difference there..

log the startup and idle. how is your fuel economy? when logging it would be nice to log the wideband afr and see whats up. if you dont have any vacuum leaks and your maf is good you may also need to check your afr just to see if your are idling around 14.7

Make sure you check your BISS screw too. We have found they degrade over time which is why we now replace them with new ones on all MIL.SPEC 65mm throttle bodies. Both the BISS screws and TB seals seem to be wear items :(

New one in middle, 2 BISS screws we pulled out of OEM cores on either side...
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...iss_screws.jpg

maf should be cleaned at least twice a year.