Gsc 280's any good?
 

Well I have a hook up to get some Gsc 280's for 250 slightly used, The guy said they were the older discontinued versions and you can/ he ran them on stock valvetrain. What are your take of these cams? thanks
p.s iv searched and could only find info on the S1's and so on, not of the older 280's
-Kyle

im guessing their good since their gsc's

well yea i was wondering if there was anymore info on them and if there safe to run on stock valvetrain.

You can run them on stock valvetrain but for how long? It depends how you drive the car. If you are just going to be daily driving it with some pulls here and there getting on the highway or w/e and not revving real high then you should be fine. Running cams that are that close to the limit of OEM will take its toll in a hurry if you are revving high often. The springs will fatigue much quicker since you will be compressing them more and the transverse rate at which they are cycling will increase greatly with the larger cams. You will experience either weakened springs causing valve float or a spring will snap. Snapped spring and you are looking at a serious chunk of change. Id say run them now and have your fun but be saving, the next mod should be upgraded springs/retainers.

Non-Scientific answer: Yeah you can do it but only if you dont drive it like you stole it.

they should be ok on the stock springs as long as you dont rev it passed 7500rpm

Where's a good place to get GSC 280's these days?

you shouldnt run any cam on stock valve train idc if it says its possible to.

cams are put it to run high rpm and to make your hp curve carry all thw way to redline.

why jeopardise that with not doing valve springs.

The stock evo cams are 256/246 with 10.0mm lift on the intake and 9.56mm lift on the exhaust.
So if your jumping up to a cam with a duration of 280 and probably a mininum lift of 10.5mm on the exhaust why not do the springs.

Mitsuibishi never thought ahead and said "oh these springs will work with this amount of lift"

Yes i no alot of you are affended by this but running on stock springs with that big of a cam just is not smart IMO.

and for all you saying just dont rev past 7k or 7500k, thats dumb. If the springs arent strong enough to hold that much lift then there just not, regardless of the rpm.

And why do cams if you cant rev past 7k?!?! thats why you do cams!
i t botheres me alot when i see ppl say "just dont rev past here and your fine"

Revving to a certain RPM relize on your tune, and where your power curve is carrying to.

Ppl really need to do some searching and learn about cams first.

just do the springs and be done at once.

if u rgonna bust the head open then might as well take advantage of this and change the springs, and retainers. they are not that expensive anyways. probably under 300-400.

yep

just get the cams and dont install them until u get springs and retainers IMO its not worth putting the cams in just to take them out all over again to upgrade the springs and retainers just do it all at once and get it over with and u shouldnt have to worry about high revs and wut not

ok thanks for the replys guys, i came from V8's and all and starting to love these 4 cylinders and BOOST haha, i just didnt know how much the stock valvetrain could handle and all but ill take a look at some springs and retainers, any links to a decent set that wont break the bank?

what makes a valve float is really high rpm ex. 7500rpm...
and cams dont just make power at 7k plus rpm, look at the ams test, big cams make power threw the whole powerband....

search supertech, ferrera, cosworth, or just search valve springs/retainers on the forum and see what ppl are running.

manley valve springs got pretty good reviews from what ive seen. and cheap to like 250 or so with retainers.

Manley FTW!

I would suggest a set of springs on those cams. we offer a direct spring replacement for only $216 http://www.stikiller.com/product.php...cat=335&page=1